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The other consideration for having a professioanl do the work is the (usually free/included) inspection of other systems and fluids of your vehicle. "Knowing if it's done" right isn't a matter of doing it yourself as much as finding a good shop with good techs that you trust (IMHO.)

So, again, I'm asking the group what they're accustomed to paying for an oil change. In a previous life I was a Service Advisor at a couple different shops and our oil changes were loss leaders to attract customers, not a service which supported the overhead of the shop.


To be honest- me, as technician (made my degree based on this and out of the shop now for over 15 years, and don't work on cars anymore since even over 20 years, also worked as service advisor and service manager), I understand very well- I actually had it with working on cars and rather would had folded card board, than do this job again.
I have so much other, and more interesting things to do, than laying in the dirt in my driveway and do, what others do for a small amount of money. Also- when the truck is on the lift, they usually have this 20 point inspection for free- fluids, brakes, brake lines, fuel lines, damages, functions, etc... and to do this- nah...
I also found out, when I buy the oil and the filter at wal mart, with my truck- 5.7L Hemi- I'm even more expensive, than the dealer, when I use my coupons (be smart- join the RAM owners club at RAM.com and you will be surprised) I pay between $35 and $40 per oil change, compared to $55.00 parts and oil at wally world. And there, I would have to do the work by my self. So even cheaper, when I let them do it.


I don't know, if you bought a extended warranty, but I bought it for additional $10 per month for a 7-year 100000 mile bumper to bumper warranty, where I have to pay either 10% or max $100 in case, and there where 8 oil changes included for free. Plus, I had another 4 oil complementary oil changes from the dealer, which they give everyone anyway, when you buy a used vehicle.
As we bought the charger, we also bought a 7-year bumper to bumper warranty and the pay all oil changes for the whole duration of the warranty. This was also a extra $10.00 investment. I thought- well- it cost me as much as 2 oil changes per year- with free warranty. worth it.


Because of the $200 oil changes (varies probably by region but should be somewhere in the range), a Eco Diesel maintenance can never equalize the better fuel mileage, when you don't drive at least 30000 miles/year, if you also count the higher price and also higher price of Diesel fuel.


I think, with $200, you're still in the green, when you see, what the parts alone cost.


I'm just lucky, I found a dealer, when I come for an oil change, they just do the oil change, don't try to sell me shit and don't ask me every time I drive on the lot, if I don't want to trade my truck in for a new one. I drive in, get my work done, pay and leave. That's what I like. If I need something, I know, who to ask.
The dealer works out real great for things like oil changes until the sling your door open into a rack.. even though they paid for the fix in my case, IMO my new truck wasn’t so new anymore and still to today I just don’t have that perfect truck feel anymore because of the dealer (@7,000 miles. I’ll probaly take the loss and trade it in when the 2019 single cabs come out, or I come across the right new 17 or 18.
 

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I've let someone other than me change my oil about 5 times in the 35 years that I've been driving and I would say that they f___ked something up at least three of those times. I for one consider loose oil filters, greasy hand prints on the seats, steering wheel, door and places where oil was spilled on the engine cover and valve cover significant enough problems to where I just do it myself. I worked at an auto center years ago and lets be honest in that most places don't have actual mechanics doing oil changes. They have grease monkeys with little to no experience that do stupid shit like killerdamngoat is talking about.
 

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I'd say doing it yourself saves time. Instead of driving to the dealer, waiting for them to change it, and driving back you just change it yourself and save the commuting time. Plus you know the oil and filter were actually changed
 

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I'd say doing it yourself saves time. Instead of driving to the dealer, waiting for them to change it, and driving back you just change it yourself and save the commuting time. Plus you know the oil and filter were actually changed


No it does not save time. You run to Wally world or O'Reiley's, get your stuff- pay more, than the dealer would take for the whole job, go home, get your crap out, you need for the job, get dirty, and when you're done, you sit there and wonder, where you pour the old oil, because the last time your wife gave you hell, because her flowers died.
I check every time, when I get the truck back- actually, the dealer where I am, the service writer goes with me to the truck, opens the hood, shows me that everything is ok, checks, if the tech took all seat and floor covers out and says good bye till the next time with a hand shake. I can really say- I am very pleased with the service there. And most- they even do it, knowing, they don't really make any money off of me.
I've been there now since 2 1/2 years every 4-6 months for oil changes and I can recall not one time, where I was disappointed. And everyone who knows me- that's rare. I'm a loyal customer and when you treat me right, I always come back - and more- I'm even willing to pay maybe a little more for something, but I know, I'm in good hands. Yes- I'm passing 3 RAM Dealers on my way down there. Each one of them pissed me off sometime in the past.
Takes me 1 1/2 hours including driving. I don't think, you can beat that with do it yourself.
 

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Takes me 1 1/2 hours including driving. I don't think, you can beat that with do it yourself.
DIY oil change is cheaper and faster and you know it's done right. I wouldn't let Wally-world or Jiffy-dudes touch my vehicles.

I pass the Advance Auto Parts on my way home from work. 10 minutes in and out. At home, oil change on the RAM takes no more than 20 minutes Don't have to jack it up. Just throw down and old sheet on the driveway and away I go. Old oil goes in the same jug the new oil came out of and goes back to Advance Auto Parts next time I pass by. Only takes about 10 minutes longer on the Challenger because I have to jack it up and take off 4 bolts to get the the belly pan off. 30 minutes total for the RAM and no more than 45 for the car. I can buy two cases of beer or 100 rounds of 45 ACP with the money I saved over paying someone else to maybe change my oil correctly.

Same with rotating the tires. Jerks at the garage put an impact wrench on the lugnuts and slam marks into them. Screw that. I consider tire rotation just good exercise (those 33" Toyos on my Rebel are friggin huge and heavy) but I can still do it. When I have to take my vehicles in for state inspection each year, they have to pull the wheels to inspect the brakes. I take my good lugnuts off BEFORE I go to the garage and put the crap OEM lugnuts on. Let the grease monkeys put impact marks on the crap lugnuts. Then when I get the vehicle home, I remove the OEM lugnuts and put my Gorilla nuts back on and hand-torque them. Better than going to the gym and my nuts are immaculate.
 

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DIY oil change is cheaper and faster and you know it's done right. I wouldn't let Wally-world or Jiffy-dudes touch my vehicles.

I pass the Advance Auto Parts on my way home from work. 10 minutes in and out. At home, oil change on the RAM takes no more than 20 minutes Don't have to jack it up. Just throw down and old sheet on the driveway and away I go. Old oil goes in the same jug the new oil came out of and goes back to Advance Auto Parts next time I pass by. Only takes about 10 minutes longer on the Challenger because I have to jack it up and take off 4 bolts to get the the belly pan off. 30 minutes total for the RAM and no more than 45 for the car. I can buy two cases of beer or 100 rounds of 45 ACP with the money I saved over paying someone else to maybe change my oil correctly.


Same with rotating the tires. Jerks at the garage put an impact wrench on the lugnuts and slam marks into them. Screw that. I consider tire rotation just good exercise (those 33" Toyos on my Rebel are friggin huge and heavy) but I can still do it. When I have to take my vehicles in for state inspection each year, they have to pull the wheels to inspect the brakes. I take my good lugnuts off BEFORE I go to the garage and put the crap OEM lugnuts on. Let the grease monkeys put impact marks on the crap lugnuts. Then when I get the vehicle home, I remove the OEM lugnuts and put my Gorilla nuts back on and hand-torque them. Better than going to the gym and my nuts are immaculate.


I would never go to wally world or jiffy lube or how they name, to change my oil or let anything be done.
I never let them rotate my tires- has different reasons- one is, that in the one dealership, they did that with my wife's charger and stripped the aluminum cover over the heart of the lug nuts- the aluminum turned, the lug nut not- had to chisel ALL 20 lug nuts off to get them off. I complained at the dealer and he said: "I can't tell the technicians, how to repair the cars", as I told him, that there is even a bulletin, which says, not to use an impact wrench on the lug nuts. Well, that was one of them 3 dealers, I pass on my way to MY dealer.
If you worked on cars and with cars as long as I have, I'm just tired of doing stuff like that.
And may I ask, how much you pay for semi-synthetic 5/20 plus oil filter?
 

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It costs about the same as going to the dealer to change my own oil, but I know what oil is going in it. Pick it up at Walmart while I'm there anyway so that doesnt add any time, and dump it in the used oil container that holds 13 qts, which is enough for a change in both my vehicles. Next time I run errands I can stop by any auto parts store and get it recycled. In fact I could probably dump it in the used oil receptacle at work
 

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It costs about the same as going to the dealer to change my own oil, but I know what oil is going in it. Pick it up at Walmart while I'm there anyway so that doesnt add any time, and dump it in the used oil container that holds 13 qts, which is enough for a change in both my vehicles. Next time I run errands I can stop by any auto parts store and get it recycled. In fact I could probably dump it in the used oil receptacle at work


Why I'm asking- I checked at wally world and the oil with filter would cost me $55.00 and the oil change at the dealer $39.99 with coupon, which I use regular.


https://www.mopar.com/ramtrucks/en-us/savings/coupons/dealer-coupons.html?dealerCode=44912
 

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If you use conventional its probably cheaper, if you're using synthetic I don't think it is.


If you want a group 4 or 5 oil then that's not even an option from the dealer
 

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The dealer did my first 'free' oil change. I did the second one. The tech had tightened the drain plug so much that it feels like he messed the threads up. Then the oil filter was so tight I deformed the case to get it off. They were also supposed to grease the u-joint and there is no evidence they did that. No thanks - I'll do it myself.
 

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Just finished changing my oil. This is the 2nd time @ 12,135 miles. I used Pennzoil Platinum 5W-20 & Mobil 1 M1-113A oil filter.
 

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Changing mine today with 9855 miles from the last service , this is on a 10k interval if I do little or no towing. I put 40,000 a year normally and run full synthetic Moble 1. If I go off road,beach driving in deep sand or tow, this interval drops to 5k. So far for the last 20 years it has worked well for me. On disassembly for modification(cams, roller rockers, etc..) the engines are very clean with no sludge, varnish or even discoloration. Right now the oil is still very translucent and you can clearly see the markings on the dipstick through the oil.
 

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I average 22,000kms/yr and change the oil in April and October.
The "Monitor" still shows >10% Life remaining.

7 liters of Amsoil XL 5w-20 synthetic with an Amsoil Ea filter.
 

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In my 2014 1500 Hemi, I’ve gone by the monitor changing the oil at the 10% left range and have used the standard dino oil the dealer uses since day 1. I’m at 117k miles with zero oil consumption or any issues whatsoever.
 

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I've asked this question to many a Service Manager and on many different vehicles and they've all said that it's a convenience reminder. It can't "see" the oil (clean/dirty) and can't tell the difference between Dino/synthetic oils.

I spoke with a renowned scientist a few years ago on the subject of oils and when to change and his opinion was that people change their oils wayyyy to early due mostly due to them still following what was needed for very old oil technology and the industry doing their very best to keep old ideas going (profit $$$$$).

He went on to say that (on a gasoline motor) with the new oils available if you run full synthetic you can certainly go 10k miles between changes AND in many cases can just spin on a new filter at 10k, top it off and go another 10k or longer before fully changing the oil.
I've read of people testing their oil to see if it's true and had positive results but personally I never got around to testing as my other trucks have been used. I know on our old '97 Tahoe 350 Vortec I did it and it was running fine when we sold it at 180000 miles.

Now that I've got a new truck when I switch to full Synthetic I'll do it and see what the results say.
 

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I've asked this question to many a Service Manager and on many different vehicles and they've all said that it's a convenience reminder. It can't "see" the oil (clean/dirty) and can't tell the difference between Dino/synthetic oils.

I spoke with a renowned scientist a few years ago on the subject of oils and when to change and his opinion was that people change their oils wayyyy to early due mostly due to them still following what was needed for very old oil technology and the industry doing their very best to keep old ideas going (profit $$$$$).

He went on to say that (on a gasoline motor) with the new oils available if you run full synthetic you can certainly go 10k miles between changes AND in many cases can just spin on a new filter at 10k, top it off and go another 10k or longer before fully changing the oil.
I've read of people testing their oil to see if it's true and had positive results but personally I never got around to testing as my other trucks have been used. I know on our old '97 Tahoe 350 Vortec I did it and it was running fine when we sold it at 180000 miles.

Now that I've got a new truck when I switch to full Synthetic I'll do it and see what the results say.
Was he talking about actual group IV/V PAO/ester synthetics, or the highly refined conventional oils that most sold on store shelves as synthetics are?
 

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Was he talking about actual group IV/V PAO/ester synthetics, or the highly refined conventional oils that most sold on store shelves as synthetics are?
Well, given that this conversation was about 5 years ago and about full synthetics...:4-dontknow: He did mention that even the conventional Dino oils last longer /is still effective than most people use 'em. He did make a point in saying that 3k between changes no matter what is used is insane and yet there's still those that do it...
 

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I wouldn't let the imbeciles at Reno Dodge put air in my tires. They've tried to get me to bring my truck in for an oil change. Using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum they are $30 more than if I did it myself. Even if they were cheaper I wouldn't trust them to do it.
 
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