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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all, I just ordered a pair of Hella driving lights today for my 2002 Ram. I will be mounting them behind the grill. I just have a few questions about wiring them because I would like to wire them to my high beams, where they come on automatically whenever I turn on my high beams. I am pretty clueless about electrical work in general, although I did install a pair of offroad lights already but they are independent from all other lights. I know that wiring anything that connects to the fuse box is potentially dangerous. I just want to make sure I don't blow an $800 piece of equipment so I am hoping you guys can help me clarify a few things since installation instructions are very vague (for someone with no experience).

Firstly, I ordered Hella 550 series driving lights. Here are the install instructions I found online. http://www.hella.com/produktion/Hel...ivers/Lighting/500550MountingInstructions.pdf

1.) I'm assuming I will want to use the first wiring diagram since that is the one that connects to the high beams. I am confused why you connect to the parking lamp though? The green wire runs straight from the switch to the parking lamp. If I have to connect to the parking lamp, does anyone know what color the wire(s) for the parking lamps is? Do I need to connect to both or just one parking lamp wire?

2.) I have read in another thread that connecting both lights to one high beam wire will damage the fuse box. Is it ok to connect the blue wire in the diagram to just one of the high beam wires? I read there are separate wires for left and right headlights. Do I need to run a wire to both left and right headlight wires? I read that the headlight wires on a 2008 are white/light green and white/gray. Will they be the same color on my 2002?

I think I can figure the rest out myself. I just want to be ready to install once they arrive at my doorstep!
 

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If you want them to go on and off without the switch ( only with high beams ) go with the diagram on page 3. It will not hurt running only one wire from just one high bean since there is very little power draw to the relay and all the power draw for the lights are straight off the battery itself !
as an example, I am running a relay off my main harness in the steering column to power my air compressor, there is basically no power draw to trigger the relay, all the relay is doing is completing a circuit for the battery draw.
Just hook the relay up as it shows , find and use the high beam wire to tap into to trigger the relay and you will be good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Oh so I can actually wire them totally without the switch? That would be awesome. It looks like 86 splices into the high beam wire and 85 splices into the high beam wire ground. Looks like I need to go wire hunting today. :)
 

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The only thing the switch would do is break the current if you ever wanted to turn the lights off while having high beams on. If you dont want the switch and for them to come on with the high beam just eliminate the switch as the diagram shows.
 

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No problem, just take your time with it, I know I was excited wiring my air horns and easily got distracted with the wires and had to back track a few times as I confused myself along the way.... If you get lost stop and go over it again. It is really simple and after you do it , next time you wire a relay will be a breeze. I have installed my compressor in 3 vehicles now and last 2 times has been so simple I could do it blindfolded...lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I received my Hellas today. Amazon sometimes has the craziest fast shipping ever. I ordered them Sunday night so was expecting them about Thursday but they got here today. I just finished the install and all I can say is they are amazing! They make my high beams look like nothing, and they look amazing behind the grill too. I got them perfectly positioned where they shine in between the bars of my grill so no extra light is blocked. Anyway it's 5 AM so I'm going to bed. I will post pics tomorrow.
 

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I received my Hellas today. Amazon sometimes has the craziest fast shipping ever. I ordered them Sunday night so was expecting them about Thursday but they got here today. I just finished the install and all I can say is they are amazing! They make my high beams look like nothing, and they look amazing behind the grill too. I got them perfectly positioned where they shine in between the bars of my grill so no extra light is blocked. Anyway it's 5 AM so I'm going to bed. I will post pics tomorrow.
Damn you must have been excited to stay up all night installing lights...lol How did the relay and wiring work out for you?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I work til midnight usually so I'm pretty nocturnal, plus I was off today. :) I do have one concern about my install last night. I ruined one of the connectors that came with the kit and I couldn't find my dad's electrical supplies for another one so I went ahead and used an extra wire that came with the kit, that already had a connector on the end, to ground one of the lights. The thing is the wire I used is smaller gauge than the wire used to ground the other light. Will that matter that they are grounded with different gauge wires? The lights seem to work fine but I don't want one to die on me in the middle of nowhere.

Here are some pics. I mounted them on some spare brackets I found which positioned them perfectly for installation and lighting. I also received and installed my new headlights today. I ordered new headlights because my old ones were oxidized beyond repair.
 

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I would find the correct guage wire and replace it. It may work for the time being ( which I assume you dont drive with the high beams on all the time ) but may end up getting hot and burning a wire if there is a surge or something, better safe than sorry !
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yeah I need to start my own kit for electrical anyway if I'm gonna have this much custom wiring on my truck, so I'll probably buy a bunch of supplies next time I head to the store.
 

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Any exteriot wire connector kits you buy get the water proof ones or buy some heat shrink tubing. I have a large tube of electrolite grease I apply to the connectors as well to keep them from corroding as well. If you take your time and take care of all the connections they will last a lifetime. Also buy a good crimping tool, mine is like 1/2" wide and does a double crimp on all the terminals, I apply a little electrolite grease to the wire before I insert it and crimp it ( double check the crimp to make sure it took a good bite on the wires ) then heat shrink the connector or add heat shrink tubing from the connector blade to about 1" or more onto the wire to seal it from moisture. I did a complete rewire on a 1961 VW Baja Bug and never had any water issues on any of the connections, all the brass connectors stayed shiney as new in rain/snow/water...
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
I am regrounding the one light today and I can't help but notice that these lights have a big gap around the light assembly. When I put them back together (the back piece is just held on by two screws) there is a huge gap between the back and the light, and the back of the reflector is not waterproof from the water getting into the reflector area. So basically if water gets into the back it is going into the reflector area and it looks like water can literally flow, not even leak, into the back. The reflector area does have two small holes at the bottom. Are they designed to let water in and then just drain it back out? I don't have previous experience with auxiliary lights.
Here are the pics:
 

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Those should be sealed beam bulbs, they just sit in the housings and I assume they have a benzel that clamps around to hold it all together... So water may get into the housing and drain out but wont actually get any water inside the bulb itself.... If any water contacts the halogen bulbor filament itself the light would just blow out instantly. So that whole glass bulb should have just 2 or 3 contacts on the back side ( I assume 2 since it is a single filament bulb ) or the mini bulb type which fits into the glass /plastic lens with a socket, therefore you should be good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ok. Seeing the notch on the bottom of the plastic back piece and the holes at the bottom of the reflector made me think it had to be designed that way on purpose but I wanted to be sure.
 
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