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Discussion Starter #1
Hello All,

I was trying to install my Radar Detector by hard wiring it to the Auto Dimming Mirror Harness. I have done it on 3 prior vehicles, using the J28.com wiring kit, but I think I may have jacked something up.
I am an electrical novice, but have a voltmeter. I already had the ground wire/pin installed and was attempting to install the 12v (with assesories/run feed only) pin in the back of the harness - when the two of them touched. There was a small puff of smoke (I had the dumb key in the "on" position!) and now I can't get power via that wire. I checked the remaining wires in the harness and they seem to funtion. I checked the fuse (90% sure I checked the right one) and it seemed fine.
I pulled everything back out and still have the harness just hanging from the front of the headliner.
Any ideas? Could i have "fried" just that one line without damaging the others or throwing the fuse? If so, what now?

I'm new here - just got the truck a couple of weeks ago. I appreciate the help/feedback and hope that someone with more knowledge/experience can give me some tips.
 

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Well you say you have a VOM meter. I would check the fuses with the meter to see if the fuse is blown. Sometimes just eye-balling the fuse you can mess up. Make sure you check the correct fuse (fuses).

I don't know how many circuits are in the mirror and if any go to a computer, 8.4 radio or TIPM module.

Making a dead short can cause real problems and could even damage the radio if you have a 8.4a radio. The radio controls the dimming mirror on-off function.

You need to check more.

Greg
 

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Greg is on the money here. Dead shorts are a no no, especially with the key on. The new trucks are so electronically driven and connected, it would be difficult to speculate just what you did to it with a dead short. Hopefully, just a blown fuse. Let us know if we can be of any more help and keep us updated.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Everything else works!

OK - So I just went out to the truck and turned it on. The 8.4 Works (all funtions), everything in the center console works. The Headliner (garage, rear window, interior lights) all work.

I have not re-installed the rear view yet, but the only thing that seems to not work at the moment is the single 12v - in-line (pink with yellow strip).

I'll run through the voltmeter again after church, but I'm stuck. I would think that if I threw a fuse, other itmes would also be affected, no? Is there another fuse box besides the one in the engine bay? I've seen where some vehicles have a small interior box as well as the engine bay.

Thanks for the help - I'm open for ideas!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Checked the fuses again. Pulled F72 (voltage regulator) and F101 (mirror) - both are solid. Checked the line again - getting maybe 1-2 volts, instead of 12.

Next step - call dealer?
 

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Try disconnecting the battery cable and let it sit for a few minutes and see what happens. It's a long shot but you never know.
 

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Try disconnecting the battery cable and let it sit for a few minutes and see what happens. It's a long shot but you never know.
Yeah, pull both cable off and touch them together. By touching them together you'll drain any voltage left.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I did as outlined above. No change. Also - went to Autozone to pick up fuses. None on the rack matched and the guy said he never saw ones as small as the ones in the truck.
This is nuts.
 

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This circuit is probably controlled by the TIPM and by grounding that pin you inadvertently screwed up a chip on the light controller boards. A tracer probe would confirm if it goes to the TIPM, many (apart from the rear tails) now all pass via the TIPM light controller so they can be adjusted via the computer, no more fuses for those. If you re-install the rear view does everything work, even the lights, auto-dim everything?. Also the wire you tapped into, what is it used for in the Mirror, you may have said but I missed it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I haven't put the mirror back on yet. I kind of figure I have to bring it by the dealership at this point, so why put it back on.
I am not sure exactly what function the wire serves for the mirror. My mirror has the Assist and the 911 buttons in it, and is self dimming. The overhead lights, rear window, and garage door openers all work - as is.
That's just it - EVERYTHING seems to work with the exception of that one wire.
 

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I haven't put the mirror back on yet. I kind of figure I have to bring it by the dealership at this point, so why put it back on.
I am not sure exactly what function the wire serves for the mirror. My mirror has the Assist and the 911 buttons in it, and is self dimming. The overhead lights, rear window, and garage door openers all work - as is.
That's just it - EVERYTHING seems to work with the exception of that one wire.

Maybe it was just a spare 12V+, if you put the mirror back and check if all is still working, you might just need to find another +12 to tap into. Anyways, keep us posted on what you find.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I don't think that it is a spare per se. It is the only line that turns off, when the ignition/accessory is in turned off. That's why I used that line - this way, the power goes out on the radar detector when you turn off the car.
 

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I don't think that it is a spare per se. It is the only line that turns off, when the ignition/accessory is in turned off. That's why I used that line - this way, the power goes out on the radar detector when you turn off the car.
Great in theory. Just gotta watch out for those hot wires touching the ground wires. Or... or... turn the power off so you won't have that problem. :doh:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Great in theory. Just gotta watch out for those hot wires touching the ground wires. Or... or... turn the power off so you won't have that problem. :doh:
Yeah - I know. Like I said before, this is the 4th one that I have done (1st truck) and I never had an issue.

Can't find a "punch myself in the face" animation on here but that's what I feel like doing. So annoyed that I screwed this up!
 

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I don't think that it is a spare per se. It is the only line that turns off, when the ignition/accessory is in turned off. That's why I used that line - this way, the power goes out on the radar detector when you turn off the car.
OK well if you can run that wire down the pillar driver side to the electrical inlet next to the brake pedal you will see a Large Blue wire and I think its lined red, this wire is (+ 12v) on run only I am presuming its a 30amp, you should be able to use that.
 

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EDIT: wire (PINK/ W yellow stripe)

This wire is for the SUNROOF

One thing that you did not mention is Sunroof? This one would not work with the key off.
I would check fuse F35 30 amp. And fuse F66 10 amp.
Wiring diagram I think it will be fuse F66 10 amp. that is blown.


https://techauthorityonlinedemo.extra.chrysler.com/service/repair/wiring/view/classic.htm

SUNROOF/POWER TOP SYSTEM / Connector Details
Diagram
Connection (SP2229)

------------------------------------------------------------
OK, I would put everything back together at this point as Asur stated.

There is only one fuse box in the Ram.

The only thing I can think of is making sure your front head lighting is working correctly along with the movement of the dimming mirror.

If you find that everything works (all lights, accessories) than that would point me to the dreaded TIPM and a chip in it. Only the dealer can tell you about this one.

Keep us informed.

Greg
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Greg - You nailed it!
I just logged back in to tell everyone that I found out what it was. I checked each fuse, one by one to be sure I didn't miss anything. Turns out I did - it was Fuse #66 - SunRoof! I don't have a sunroof in mine, but that's thepurpose of the wire, as Greg noted.
I'm pretty damn excited that it isn't anything worse!

Next question - Where the hell do you get fuses?! I have gone to Home Depot and an Auto Store and neither have the tiny little fuses that go in this truck. The Auto Store guy said he has never seen them before...ugh.
 

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EDIT: wire (PINK/ W yellow stripe)

This wire is for the SUNROOF

One thing that you did not mention is Sunroof? This one would not work with the key off.
I would check fuse F35 30 amp. And fuse F66 10 amp.
Wiring diagram I think it will be fuse F66 10 amp. that is blown.


https://techauthorityonlinedemo.extra.chrysler.com/service/repair/wiring/view/classic.htm

SUNROOF/POWER TOP SYSTEM / Connector Details
Diagram
Connection (SP2229)

------------------------------------------------------------
OK, I would put everything back together at this point as Asur stated.

There is only one fuse box in the Ram.

The only thing I can think of is making sure your front head lighting is working correctly along with the movement of the dimming mirror.

If you find that everything works (all lights, accessories) than that would point me to the dreaded TIPM and a chip in it. Only the dealer can tell you about this one.

Keep us informed.

Greg

Reps for hitting that one on the nail, nice:smileup:
 

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Greg - You nailed it!
I just logged back in to tell everyone that I found out what it was. I checked each fuse, one by one to be sure I didn't miss anything. Turns out I did - it was Fuse #66 - SunRoof! I don't have a sunroof in mine, but that's thepurpose of the wire, as Greg noted.
I'm pretty damn excited that it isn't anything worse!

Next question - Where the hell do you get fuses?! I have gone to Home Depot and an Auto Store and neither have the tiny little fuses that go in this truck. The Auto Store guy said he has never seen them before...ugh.
Voonderbar! Thanks for the update!:smileup:
 

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Next question - Where the hell do you get fuses?! I have gone to Home Depot and an Auto Store and neither have the tiny little fuses that go in this truck. The Auto Store guy said he has never seen them before...ugh.
Until you find a fuse at the store, you can use one of the extra ones in the fuse box that you don't have an accessory installed. Look around there are extra fuses in there.

Glad that fixed your problem.

Greg
 
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