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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, so this is the time that all you gear heads get to spend my money. :LOL: I am looking at one of two options. They will end up being the same price more or less so what would you go for...

Stock 5.7 block with heads, cam, and a magnusen supercharger. I would be running it at 6 psi. From what magnusen and Arrington told me the stock pistons/rods would be fine. This would put me at around 500 rwhp.

OR

Stroker kit 5.7 to 6.7 built motor. Fully built bottom end with heads and the works. I'm looking at around 530 rwhp in this application. With the forged internals I could always add a supercharger in the future if I so chose...


What to do? :4-dontknow:I need opinions. Give reasons for your choice also please....
 

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Only question I have is this your daily driver?

If it is I would go the first route becuase I think you'll have more fun with it. The s/c will give you more lowend instanteous grunt. The power will come in low and you'll have a nice flat torque curve. I could be wrong but to get 530rwhp n/a I think you'd have to install a very agressive cam which would kill your street manners and require a looser torque converter. The n/a setup might make more overall but not down low and the peak numbers will come higher in the rpm band.

If you go the stroker route and want to install a blower later keep in mind you'll have to swap the cam and torque converter again b/c your large n/a cam and higher stall t/c most likely won't be blower friendly. Not a huge deal but just saying b/c it won't be as easy as bolting on the blower and driving off.

Lastly, if you did want a little more power with the s/c setup it's only a pulley swap away.

The TVS rotors used in the maggie are a great design by Eaton. The new lobe and twist delivers great power with less heat when compared to other roots blowers. If the maggie is anything like the edlebrock, ford racing, & roush TVS series (they all use the same rotors from Eaton) then that s/c won't even be breaking a sweat at 6psi. It's not until 15+psi where they start to develop serious heat. (I have the Roush TVS on one of my projects running at 10 psi)

just my 2 cents.
 

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I would just add the supercharger and tune it! Strokers take a lot of tuning and extra stuff, especially to put down 500 whp
 

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I would do C.

Stock cubic inch
Forged Weisco or Diamond pistons with good rings
Forged Callies rods
Blower friendly cam.
Stock heads (they will flow well enough for boost)
Magnusen blower, spin it to around 80% of it's efficiency (RPM) or enough to where it makes around 8-10 psi
Larger injectors
Second fuel pump, boost referenced so it is not running all the time, just after you hit a selected PSI number.

These engines can take boost however, if you do the above you don't have to worry about blowing the ring lands on the pistons which is a weak point as well as the pistons. It is just a matter of time, or one bad tank of fuel, or if you experience any detonation before something can happen.
 

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Some more s/c info:

Here is the TVS blower MAP. The 8000 - 16000 numbers in the middle are blower rpms. You can calculate blower rpms if you know the s/c pulley size and the crank pulley size (in inches).

Also, to show you how much low end you can make here is my other project's dyno sheet. 300 ft lbs at 1500 rpm! and it tops 400 ft lbs at 3700 rpm.
Motor: 4.6 liters, 9.8:1 c/r, 10 psi, 17 degrees timing, 52# injectors, twin GT500 fuel pumps, longtubes, a/f ratio 11.6-11.8:1.

I can fwd you as much info as you'd like to read on the TVS2300 blowers. Let me know if you are interested. You have ARH longtubes right? You'll prob read 1-2 psi less boost then someone with stock exhaust manifolds b/c your motor is more efficient. If you buy the "8psi pulley" you'll prob see 6-7 psi with your longtubes.
 

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To expand on the blower rpm calc:

crank damper pulley circumference divided by s/c pulley circumference = drive ratio

drive ratio times engine rpm = blower rpm

Here's my application:

6.65"/3.25" = 2.046
2.046 * 6500 = 13,300
So using the 13,300 number and the blower MAP you can see that just as I approach redline the blower is at about 66% efficiency. To help with temps I also replaced the stock kit heat exchanger with the biggest AFCO h/e I could fit to keep IATs down.

So now if you go built motor and s/c you can look at different pulley sizes and see where the s/c will be operating in it's efficiency range.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Okay, new setup. What do you think.

Stock block, forged internals, go ahead and have my long tubes ceramic coated, cam, big valve heads, maggie s/c, dual pulley/tune setup, secondary fuel pump.

Kind of combined all the ideas in one. Forged internals to handle higher psi. Dual tunes. One with a 6/8 psi pulley. One with a 12 psi pulley. Make the smaller one real mild for street driving. When I want to go to the strip change the pulley and load the other tune. This may require two predator handhelds. Idk.

How about that setup?
 

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Okay, new setup. What do you think.

Stock block, forged internals, go ahead and have my long tubes ceramic coated, cam, big valve heads, maggie s/c, dual pulley/tune setup, secondary fuel pump.

Kind of combined all the ideas in one. Forged internals to handle higher psi. Dual tunes. One with a 6/8 psi pulley. One with a 12 psi pulley. Make the smaller one real mild for street driving. When I want to go to the strip change the pulley and load the other tune. This may require two predator handhelds. Idk.

How about that setup?
I like you plans....if you are only going to run 12 psi I'd skip the heads but that's just me. I would add a 90mm t/b and the biggest CAI you find. Positive displacement blowers do even better when you cut down on the restriction before the rotors.

1 Predator will hold both tunes but I'd be willing to bet once you start running the 12 psi tune you won't switch back. Both tunes will be 93 octane anyway so why switch back and forth? personally I wouldn't do it.

with a built motor 12 psi is very mild...just run it straight up.
 

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& this is going into a Anglia car right:LOL:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
HEMI POWER! lol

Why would you leave the stock heads? I was thinking 6 psi on 91 octane. 12 psi on 105 octane. Reason being, at 12 I'm pushing the limits of the drivetrain. I'm going to replace the torque converter but leave everything else stock. Keeping at low boost will help longevity. The higher boost for those rare times it goes to the track. That's my reasoning anyway. I don't want to go higher until I beef up everything else
 

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you can run 93 octance with 12 psi no problem. hell, you can run up to about 17-18 psi on 93 octance. don't waste money on 105...it will only let you run a little more timing and not worth it in my opinion.

reason I wouldn't do heads is cost...$2000 for about 40hp isn't worth it to me. just run a little more boost.
 

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I think it would be easier to work backwards.

pick your rwhp goal and then decide what mods and/or how many psi it will take you to get there. Your builder and tuner can be of a lot help also b/c they will have seen so many different combos.

I don't want to change your mind or sway your decision if you have a build in mind...I was just trying to save you some time and money. I know you can get there w/o heads. Tuning a boosted vehicle is expensive too. You'll prob pay AT LEAST $400. I been to my tuner 3 times...lol.

maybe Fred or some of the others will chime in tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The truck is paid off but I was thinking borrowing 20k against it for stereo, katzkin, and the motor work. I'm planning 14 for the motor work. If I have extra great. I just want a reliable daily driver that can flat out scream if I so choose. I really don't need more than 450 street but want 550 strip. I just want to do it right the first time
 
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