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Discussion Starter #1
I will attempt to keep this novel as short as possible;

I bought the truck knowing it had issues. had a 318, 17x,xxx miles. 318 ran fine other than knocks, ticks, and oil consuming, and lean gas.(this doesn't sound fine until I explain the 360)

I had a hefty tax return so I decided to rebuild a motor for it. I pulled one from a junk yard. Brought it back, engine looks AWESOME. but it was a 360... I decided to make lemonade with lemons and do the engine swap.

I rebuilt all of the bottom end. all of it... all new gaskets, seals, and bearings. heads I wasn't worried about. and I also decided to get a longer duration cam. (bigger than factory, but the smallest I could find)

I used all my electrical an computer components from my 318 besides the fuel injectors (which all test just fine in terms of resistance.

- I would like to take a pause here before anyone says its impossible to run the engine with the 318 computer. a mechanic around here said it wouldn't run at all. with that I turned around and stared at my truck for a few seconds and turned back to him with a "really? because I just drove it 45 minutes to here and all around town")


Initially, it wouldn't start. moved the distributor back and forth a bit, kept it alive with starter fluid, and it seemed to "learn." and we finally got it to idle on its own for about 10 seconds. it bounced around ALOT between 500- 1000 rpm. I became discouraged and decided to rev it. if it exploded, it would then have a good reason not to run. finally, it idled so I took it for a test drive. I couldn't stop at all without it dying. so I beat the crap out of it. finally, it could come to a stop if I feathered the throttle.

Its been about 9 months now. when I say I feather it, I mean I BARELY push it. if I were to let off the brake, the truck wouldn't move because of how little I push it. is there a way to adjust the tb? would it just be from how little air comes in?? all of the sensors in the tb have been changed.

the only time it stalls is if im in drive and there is a force acting on it to stop it. (slight incline, turning, or braking) occasionally it will stall if im in reverse and turning tightly without applying the gas.

I should also mention that the 360 also runs very lean. I did remove the catalytic converter because of it being clogged and be being broke:LOL: and replaced it with a pipe. but this was after the 360 was installed and the 318 had the same issue. I assume the front 02 sensor could be fried.
 

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- I would like to take a pause here before anyone says its impossible to run the engine with the 318 computer. a mechanic around here said it wouldn't run at all. with that I turned around and stared at my truck for a few seconds and turned back to him with a "really? because I just drove it 45 minutes to here and all around town")
While technically it's running with the 318 computer it still needs to be flashed to the correct tune. Contact hemifever and he can recommend the right tune for your truck http://www.hemifevertuning.com/SCT_DCX_tuning_s/20.htm
 

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Discussion Starter #4
While technically it's running with the 318 computer it still needs to be flashed to the correct tune. Contact hemifever and he can recommend the right tune for your truck http://www.hemifevertuning.com/SCT_DCX_tuning_s/20.htm
little pricey. id rather go to lingenfelter here in indiana and have them dyno tune it for that price. i was also told you cant flash these computers. mind you, that was from the dillwad who told me my truck wouldn't run at all with the computer.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
update!
Despite the lack of opinions and suggestions, ill keep trying here for now.

I had help and they found a vacuum leak by the exhaust (seems to be common after research.) I then also plugged my evap vacuum off and my truck ran PERFECT. couldnt have been better honestly. had all the power finally id expect from the 360. i went to town, started her up, and replied to a text while it idled. then it bogged out for the first time since the fix. and it was back to bad idling in gear.

we had a winter storm yesterday, and my 4x4 wasnt engaging (we narrowed it down to the vacuum switch) and we rigged the vacuum line so that the white vacuum pulled suction to the actuator all the time. it worked!
so like any sensible 4x4 owner surrounded by fields owned by family, we took it out there and my exhaust pipe slipped off and i was running straight pipe (woops)

some emergencies came up and i went to town with it. on the way back all of a sudden popped and it cant hold rpms.

i had to replace #6 valve spring when it snapped once (didnt drop the valve thank god) and replace the pushrod with it. still have a misfire from it occasionally, but it holds pressure like a champ (no idea whats going on there)

does anyone think this is simply the tps? seems weird it randomly messed up while driving.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
oh btw, it died at every turn. to start it, i have to have the throttle half open at least and accelerate and decelerate it continuously to keep it alive.
 

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Start with the obvious and have the PCM flashed with the 5.9 software. I would then want to see if I had any active codes and watch the O2 voltages in the data stream to see what's going on. Also check the cam/crank difference - anything more than 6 degrees either direction is a problem. What about the MAP, TPS and IAC numbers...are they in the normal operating range? Since you mentioned it runs lean, have you verified fuel pressure AND volume?
 
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