I used the Audiovox PRO9233N alarm upgrade, it doesn’t have keyfobs, it uses the factory keyfob by way of the lock/unlock. When you lock the doors, it sends the signal to arm, and when you unlock, it sends the signal to disarm. Everything else works as normal with the factory fob, I just turned the horn honk for arm/disarm off in the EVIC, since it has the chirps from the alarm. The only problem I have with it is that the shock sensor is so sensitive that I can’t have it armed while remote starting, the hemi is too rough and it chirps the warn away response. I plan to run a relay that will disable the sensor during remote start at some point in the future. This can be done by wiring a relay from the same stereo wire which feeds the radio during remote start. By feeding the power for the shock sensor through the relay as always connected, when the radio gets energized, it would energize the relay removing the connection for the shock sensor. You can get the unit with shock sensor for $50 or less if you search the internet, motion sensor is DEI 508D, and the glass break is DEI 506T, Wire and diodes from radio shack, black tape to wrap the wire runs and it looks professional. There is plenty of room behind the bezel for the radio and under the center console for the alarm, I tie wrapped the 9233N to the bottom front brace for the center console along with the relay for the tonneau pop, and I tie-wrapped the shock sensor to the metal brace that runs up the side brace under the radio, and put the motion sensor behind the gear shift in my center console. The glass break sensor can go anywhere you want since it is just a microphone.
I don’t know if they changed the color codes of the wiring or connections for 2012, but a check with a meter should tell you the wires are correct, the manual I have is for 2009, and the connections have changed for 2011.
I ran the extra hood-pin switch to the back and use it for the tonneau cover. The 9233N has an extra output to open a trunk etc…, so I got the tonneau with remote opener and wired it to the output. By hitting lock/unlock/lock, it pops the tonneau open. The green/black output is the tonneau pop if you use it and I used that square in the picture to denote the relay. The pin numbers are labeled in the picture, with 85 and 30 tapped together. This would send 12V to the popper to open. At the top left of the diagram you will see a blue shunt wire, this disables the tonneau alarm when you pop it with the remote, leaving the alarm still armed. It just gets connected with the green/black to the relay.
The factory alarm will only go off if the door is opened, the 9233N will go off if anything else is tripped. You can’t make the 9233N trip the factory, but since the 9233N is tied to the doors, the 9233N will trip for any situation. That is why I disabled the horn honk in the EVIC and hooked the lights to the 9233N. Basically I am not using the factory for anything although it will honk if the door is opened.
I kept the setting in the EVIC for the one press unlock only unlocks driver, and a second press unlocks passenger just to make sure it worked properly. The 9233N needs to see different unlocks, which is used so that if you are able to somehow unlock the truck from the inside (unlocking both doors) it will not disarm the 9233N. I have found that if you press unlock twice too quickly without pausing between, it doesn’t disarm the 9233N, you have to give it a slight pause between.
The last page of the 9233N install manual has the diagram with my notes for how I hooked it up. The parts that are lined out in red are not used. The diodes are labeled with the correct direction and part numbers. I hooked the +12V sources to the always on cigarette lighter, and the 12V switched ignition to the stereo (Heavy Gauge Pink). I used these sources since they were right there close to the install area. There is a ground connection on the metal brace that runs up the side under the radio.
You only need to hook the lock input to one door since both doors lock no matter which switch or remote you use. I ran the lock input to the passenger door green/purple, as well as the passenger unlock brown/black, and ran the driver unlock to the driver door pink/lt. green. I ran the door pin switch to both doors instead of hooking it up to the dome light, I think it was easier that way and I didn’t have to worry about programming the delay. The door pin wires were Violet on the driver side and violet/white on the passenger. The wires can be found behind the kick panels, but I found out later that it was easier to pull the water proof plug between the door and the chassis and tap the wires there, then put the plug back in. This allows you to use the paper-clip trick to test them before splicing. To pull the door plugs out, there is two places marked top on the top of the rubber cover where it goes into the cab. Under those markings are tabs that will push down and allow the plug to come out. Just press down on “top” and pull it out one side at a time. When I say plug it is not the actual wire connections, it is just a waterproof seal going into the cab. Once you pull it out, you gain access to the actual wire connector.
For the glass break sensor, I tied the green and blue triggers together and connected with a diode to the lt. green input. The motion sensor (in order to get dual zone triggers) gets tapped to the shock sensor with diodes (to prevent false triggering).
For headlight flash, I ran one heavy gauge wire towards the TIPM and tapped it into four close to it. You have to put a diode on each of them and tap them to each of the parking light wires, this isolates them from each other. The light flash wiring is separate for each corner of the truck which is why you have to tap each of the four. There is a white/green(49) and white/ yellow(50) in plug C7, and white/green(9) and white(not sure about tracer)(7) in plug C4. The pictures show the wires going into the plug and also an overall of the TIPM. The two connectors are the bottom left two as you are looking at the front of the TIPM. They are the light “drivers” and can be measured with a meter. Put a paper clip in the back of the connecter and hook the meter to it and turn on the blinker, the meter should fluctuate with each flash.
I took my time and just made a few connections at a time, wrapping and making it neat as I went. After it was all wired up I installed the fuses and then plugged in the module with doors closed key not in the ignition and gave it a little time to make sure it programmed itself. Then follow the instructions to complete installation (page 7). This way I did not lose use of the truck and could take my time and make everything neat.
As for getting through the firewall, on mine there is a rubber nipple that sticks out right below where the main harness goes through the firewall. Just cut the tip of the nipple off and it gives you a place to pass wires.
