DODGE RAM FORUM banner
1 - 20 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so i found a motor but i cant find a tranny so im gunna try to fix the a518 ... the problem with it is it doesnt build up enought pressure to shift from second to third i was told it was probly the front pump seal how much will it cost for me to fix and how do i do it i really need your help guys also the 318 is a 88 how would i convert it to carb
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,989 Posts
so i found a motor but i cant find a tranny so im gunna try to fix the a518 ... the problem with it is it doesnt build up enought pressure to shift from second to third i was told it was probly the front pump seal how much will it cost for me to fix and how do i do it i really need your help guys also the 318 is a 88 how would i convert it to carb
Whoever told you that about the transmission told you wrong! Most likely the issue is with the direct clutch inner lip seal, they leak causing a delayed 2-3 or no 2-3 shift, you can confirm this by putting the transmission in reverse if you have a slipping reverse or no reverse gear you found the culprit a 90 cent piece of rubber! Of course it can be something like stuck 2-3 shift valve but it's generally because of that seal. My transmission in my van had a faulty seal causing delayed 2-3 shifts. The problem actually isn't the seal itself by the drum, back during the manufacturing chrysler acidentally overmachined the grove that the seal sits in, transtec among others have a enlarged base seal, it's enlarged by .03 to accomidate the grove. If it's not that seal then it's probably a valve body issue or you have a leaky input shaft seal ring but most of the seal rings were actually torlon and they have great sealing properties sometimes you will find steel or teflon seal rings, personally I don't like the teflon seals because they can get cut easily during assembly and the issue I have with metal rings is the wear that they cause. But anyway's a A518 is a great transmission not the strongest when you are dealing with alot of HP but it's a great transmission. With a little work here and their you can really make one sweet machine. Oh by the way if you're interested in frictions and steels I prefer using Alto Red Eagle friction discs and alto's kolene treated steel plates. They perform well, as for bands I found is best in terms of performance, price, and longevity to use a borg werner stock replacement front band, this band has more friction material surface area then the stock. and a raybestos hi-energy rear band. both are hi energy bands actually.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,989 Posts
so how hard is it to fix ... plus what about my carb question
Well if it is the leaky lip seal causing the problem then you will have to remove the transmission, remove the pump from the transmission, remove the input shaft as an assembly and then you can remove the clutch pack from the direct drum, remove the spring retainer and springs, then remove the piston and you can then change out the seals then do the reverse procedure with a new seal and pump gasket. Lube the seals with pure petroleum jelly or use transjel red.

As for converting your TB injected engine to carb well if it's a 2bbl TB then you're going to probably have to replace the intake manifold to a 4bbl for a carb, you could use a 2bbl carb but it's just not practical, besides for the extra money you can put some more power into that 318. You might just be able to remove the TB and throw a carb on it. Idk about the ignition system, don't think it's an electronic ignition but I'm unsure, I am more familiar with the later Magnums. I think Gen1Dak will pop in here and he will certainly have an answer for the carb question.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,989 Posts
c-clamps for what ? iv never done any tranny work on my own farm before
You need the C-Clamps to compress the spring loaded piston retainer in the direct drum. What I do is use a old overrunning clutch cam and i put it around the retainer then put a clamp on each side and compress done deal. You will need the lock ring pliers (not snap ring, lock ring!) to remove the lock ring that holds the retainer inside the drum.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,040 Posts
As to the blown front seal, I was addressing this comment:

"yeah every thing is hooked up but a seal blew in it some where and now the tranny is to far gone"

Nothing about 2-3 engagement was mentioned, so I was spitting in the wind, but my impression was that it had ZERO pressure period.

Now, conversion to a carb: Any OEM cast iron 318 intake will bolt on (you're limited to 2V carbs), and can be had for nothing. If you are planning on performance, you need a 4V intake. An old Edelbrock SP2-P or Holley Streetmaster will bolt right in and match the small intake ports. The Edelbrock Performer is a newer excellent design. The big port 360 LA intake will bolt on but is a bad mismatch in port sizes. Not a great idea unless you're stepping up to 360 heads as well. You need a carb. Take your pick. Remember to grab the Mopar kickdown linkage with the carb if you pull from a Mopar. On new Eddys, it's about $15 to get the kickdown extension for the throttle arm. You may be able to adapt your TBI kickdown rods. Since you're talking conversion and emissions don't seem to be an issue, I'd get a non-EGR intake. Use pre-88 intake gaskets. You need an ignition mod. You can use Mopar's OEM electronic ignition, they sell it new or you can scavenge. Just be sure the distributor has a rubber vacuum line to run to the carb. Some Mopars had electronic distributors without vacuum advance.
www.mymopar.com/downloads/elecignconv.pdf
That link has all the instructions for wiring it in and bypassing the computer while retaining other computer-controlled functions like the air cond and regulator for the alternator. I ain't typin' all that. It comes down to 3 or 4 wire splices depending on your setup. You just have to slow down and do it. Now, there are other ways. These electronic drop-in ready-to-run GM-style HEI distributors are simple, but you will still need to either splice into the harness to fake out the computer, or mount an external regulator (many simply use the pre-'88 firewall-mounted Mopar units) and you may still be out some instrument readings without a splice. Seems overwhelming, but no more daunting than a transmission overhaul. Anyway, look at that PDF at the link. Just remember, the drop in GM unit is an easy alternative for the ignition, but that PDF is still helpful for keeping the computer in the loop for the other stuff.
First time I did it was using a '79 318 intake and carb with a '69 single point distributor (wasn't even an electronic unit) on an '89. It worked well enough til I could move up the performance ladder.
Something to remember about the 2V setup. Those carbs became non-adjustable in the 70's and with ethanol in the fuel, they're really gonna be running lean. Older ones are better, but a 4V is really the way to go if you have any $ at all.
$55 kit makes the external regulator easy:
http://www.alternatorparts.com/external-voltage-regulator-high-output-alternator-kit.html
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,040 Posts
Oh crap, I forgot something. Got a headache so I'm not all there. Anyway, you will need a fuel pressure regulator. I use the Mallory single inlet, dual outlet model. You need a pressure gauge you can plumb in temporarily to make sure you have it set properly. You have a fuel supply line running from the electric pump. Tie the regulator in at the rear area of the intake manifold where the line rises from under the truck. Tie the main outlet to the carb. The smaller outlet gets plumbed to the fuel return line that goes back to the tank. You want to set fuel pressure at 5-6 psi. Part of that little harness splice is to fool the system into sending power to the fuel pump. It normally reads signals coming from the distributor. If the signal isn't there, it shuts the fuel pump down. With the proper splice, the pump works as before, despite being totally NOT original.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,040 Posts
Hmmm, sounds like someone maybe handled the fuel delivery for you. It is possible they put a "for carburetor" fuel pump inline. You need to sort that out. How exactly is the fuel being delivered and what is the current pressure? Once you determine that, you'll know what else you need, if anything.
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
Top