Dash is the next step, as most of us have experienced these Gen 2’s used the poorest plastic I have ever seen for their pads and dash. Thanks to LMC, there’s a better alternative. They are using a better plastic compared to the competition. I used a dash skin for a bit, but you get what you pay for. A review of both to follow. My plan is to use LMC’s dash pad, and epoxy to reinforce the historically weak parts on the dash frame. I will also be swapping out the bad steering wheel (it’s condition is poor, but the cover is hiding the damage). As luck had it, when I pulled the doors and wheel from the donor, a nice guy at the junk yard had a key. If all goes well, the wheel swap will enable using one key for all.
My first that will be removing the poor steering wheel in swapping it out with the leather one from pick a part the one thing that’s very beneficial was a gentleman at the pick at part gave me the keys for the door panels. I pulled the same wheel and steering column from the donor to include the ignition cylinder. I’m gonna swap out the ignition cylinder so I can have one key functioning for everything. Once that’s done I’m gonna go ahead and disconnect air bag and let the capacitor bleed out for 30 minutes before I start assembling the wheel safety first.
I swapped out the heater core today for a Spectre Premium from AutoZone part number 398313. The part was OK quality but nothing to write home about. I’m actually very impressed with the stock heater core. At almost 300,000 miles it looked brand new. The one nice feature of the Spectre was that the tubing rotated allowing the heater core to be installed with the box still intact. Using an angle grinder I cut off the stock tubing to remove the heater core. The form on the firewall side had disintegrated So I use some 3M insulating foil tape to seal the compartment. That worked pretty well. No I had to use a flathead screwdriver and some finesse to get the Spectre to fit inside the heater box. Overall it’s a fair park for what you pay, but I may buy an OEM down the road.
The dash project continues, my headlight switch like most of us was fried due to the lack of a relay for the headlight harness. I had a donor wire harness that I spliced in to clean up the connections. As you can imagine based on the picture my light to go off occasionally as the connection shorted out. Moving forward I’m going to buy a relay harness from LMC. Ran the numbers financially and it makes more sense
Today I installed the LMC plug and play headlight relay harness. Overall a pretty good product I don’t know the exact specs but the gauge wire look to be about 14 gauge and the connections were all pretty solid. The relays used were ones that I hadn’t heard of before so I would prefer to swap that out with Bosch or something that’s a little bit better known but other than that everything looks pretty good. Like a lot of us, my headlights which was fried the voltage originally was roughly 12 V putting the key in accessory. This jumped up about 14 V when the motor was running, which makes sense why that switch was fried. The only modifications I made to the harness was adding some flex covering, and modifying the power side connection, routing it to the power distribution box over the battery. Now the headlight side is running at a little over 12 volts with the motor running. I used the existing ground screws from the stock harness, and routed it along side the fog light harness. Overall I am pretty happy with the setup. Someone with very little confidence with electrical would be able to easily install the product in my opinion, LMC has made it a true plug and play.