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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
'07 dodge 4x4------if i knew how to put my truck on the bottom of my post page i wouldnt have to explain what truck im talking about, How do i do that?

ok now,

When ever i start to apply my brakes my steering wheel starts to shake and vibrate. Also sometimes when i accelerate up from 25-40?

any ideas?
 

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when brakes are applied and it shakes, it is the rotors warped in the braking system 8/10, occasionally it can be a stuck caliper grabbing but usually a warped rotor is the cause. U can either take them off and take them to a machine shop to be machined true or simply buy new rotors. I recommend replacing pads while ur in there!
 

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:iagree: Rotors are where I'd start.Replace them and the pads....:smileup::smileup:..Rob
 

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Rotors are going to have to be almost new in order to be turned. They are sooo thin and cheep these days.. Wifes charger had 26k and rotors could not be turned.
 

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Yep...I vote rotors. Can you even get them turned any more.... and is it worth it?
I am a mechanic and I make sure to micrometer the rotors, if they can be turned and still be within specification of minimum thickness then I make it a point to turn them. Not only do u retain the factory rotor, but u save the customer money in the process.:smileup: Nothing wrong with turning rotors as long as u keep them above the minimum thickness!
 

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Aftermarket parts are so cheap now (offshore) ... it has to be a fine line when to turn and when to replace. Glad to hear its still done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I had the rotors turned at 63,474 and now at 70,000 im getting the vibration and shaking.

Work was done at the dealership, do you think the dealership would have some kind of warrenty on turned rotors?
 

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Work was done at the dealership, do you think the dealership would have some kind of warrenty on turned rotors?
Doubtful.

I vote for warped rotors too. Getting too hot.
 

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I'm going to be the odd man out and say tie rod. If a tie rod is bad enough it will give a vibration when braking and also when accelerating just like you mentioned. During braking and accelerating your suspension geometry changes. When braking, your front suspension compresses and will usually alter the toe-in/out. Same thing happens but just the opposite way for acceleration.

While having your brakes checked, make sure the whole front end is checked as well.

Let us all know how you make out.
 

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I'd jack up the front end and just for the sake of being thorough, check the wheels for any play to rule out the hubs/bearings. Then I'd get in the conga line with the others and say the rotors. If they're warped or someone hung new pads on old rotors (or un-turned rotors) you can get a nasty pulse/wobble. Especially on hard braking from higher speeds.
 

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curious...What do you charge to turn rotors?
Just had mine turned today for $12.50 each at a local repair shop.
That said I still have the grabbing most notably on hard braking, Guess I'll go with a new rotor next. How can you tell if it's front or rear causing it? Feels like right front to me and I tried braking with parking brake and didn't feel any shaking in the front end. Replaced the track bar and had the front end aligned already so that rules out tie rod ends ball joints and wheel bearings.
 

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If the steering wheel is shaking it is almost always going to be the front end. If you get a shaking throughout the truck and in your seat itll almost always be the rear. I did the 2.5'' level on mine a few weeks ago and forgot to tighten a sway bay all the way and got a death wobble at about 40mph. That then led me to notice all my tie rods and left hub needed changed as well. If you do happen to replace tie rods (tightened up my front end tremendously) make sure to spend the few extra dollars and go with "Moog", they'll last a long time and have lifetime warranty. O'Reillys will have them in stock. If youre half way mechanically inclined, do it yourself. Took me about an hour and a half and cost $315 from O'Reillys and the local shop wanted $652 to put them all on. OUTRAGEOUS. local chain stores were $550+ Im glad I did it myself, wasnt hard at all.

Im with these guys though, although you should check your tie rods, sway bar and shake the wheel for any play in your hub... start at the rotors. Simple to replace and if you stood on them a couple times or got them hot after the Stealership turned them for you (making them thinner) they could have easily warped being that theyre not as thick now.
 

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Well, this is an older post that's been bumped....and I'm sure he has solved his problem by now. But it sounds like it's the rotors warped AND the caliper(s) is bad. If it's grabbing (front, right is good about it), he may have cheap calipers with phenolic (plastic) pistons that got hot (would explain the rotor warping), and now they don't retract properly. Just a hunch :)
 

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I saw a beautiful black 2012 ish 2500 (maybe?) King Cab 4X4 broke down on Samson in Mossbluff, La today. I wanted to stop and help but I didn't see anyone around so I kept going. It looked like his tie rod end broke, horrible looking. Wheel was turned out and it was also tilted inward like possibly a ball joint had broken as well. Dodge did not look good for us sitting on the side of the road like that. :sad:
 

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Most autoparts stores will turn them for free. Or they used to. Problem is, nowadays, you could get some idiot who knows nothing.
 
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