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Well did the track Sat night and no bueno on the gears for me. We did have much higher DA and that affected me as well. I believe i blew through my boost range too fast with the 4.56's. I lost 4 tenths and 3mph at the top end. 60ft was the same...
That is good and bad news... At least now you know and everyone else. Dont think i will be getting 4.56's may just stick to 4.10's.

Let us know if anything changes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
x2,
High DA is one thing, but if it fell on its face going into overdrive before the traps, that's going to hurt you every time.

Run it a couple more times,
1) try using 2nd prime (manual shifting)
2)see if you can borrow a taller DR from someone
3) take note of what gear/rpm your at when your approaching the finish line each time.

I think a 4.30:1 would be the answer, but that isn't going to happen unfortunately
So you may have to go 4.10's or change tires to a 30".
 

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We had some nasty DA/Temps last Sat. Normally if I correct my times on dragtimes it bumps 1 tenth off but I corrected it and it took about 4tenths off... So honestly I don't think I gained anything or lost anything. I was also running with more weight than the 12.5 slip, So I'm not totally bummed out/let down by the gears but I have to say was expecting more from the 4.56's
 

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Don't worry, you still have one of the coolest rams around :)

So did you have 3.55 or 3.92 originally? You'd probably be better off with 4.10's or if you already have 3.92's laying around then just go with that...
 

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I had 3.92's before the swap.

It's funny At the track the truck was feeling a little slugish all night but on the way home at 2:00am it felt like a completely diff truck. The Temp had dropped 20+ degrees when I drove home from my buddy's house.
 

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That is strange. A sluggish feeling due to a temperature drop should be more noticeable with higher gearing than lower gearing...or at least that makes sense to me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 · (Edited)
4.30 would be a no-brainer, but that's not an option for a Chrysler 9.25 diff.
It all comes down to the number of teeth on the pinion in relation to the number of teeth on the ring gear.

as a result I'm afraid I'm faced with settling for 4.10's
or going to 4.56's and needing to buy 4 new DR's that sit about 29"-30" tall.

The key is definitely to stay out of 4th gear before hitting the traps.

I cant do any track testing or detailed calculations until I get back to the track,
I need to know my exact RPM's at the line but our track doesn't open until April 27th.

My effective gear ratio with 3.55's and 27" DR's is about 4.30:1
I believe I'm 4400-4600 rpm in 3rd gear, but not 100% sure.
If I can get to 5800 in 3rd with 4.56's and my current tires, that will be the determining factor.

If I'm wrong and I shift into 4th. I'll be in overdrive at 3000 rpm at the traps, and have to shop for new tires.

I may scrap the entire gear swap and just add a rear LSD, then spray it :D
Why struggle for mid/low 13's when I can get 12's for less $$$.

 

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4.30 would be a no-brainer, but that's not an option for a Chrysler 9.25 diff.
It all comes down to the number of teeth on the pinion in relation to the number of teeth on the ring gear.

as a result I'm afraid I'm faced with settling for 4.10's
or going to 4.56's and needing to buy 4 new DR's that sit about 29"-30" tall.

The key is definitely to stay out of 4th gear before hitting the traps.

I cant do any track testing or detailed calculations until I get back to the track,
I need to know my exact RPM's at the line but our track doesn't open until April 27th.

My effective gear ratio with 3.55's and 27" DR's is about 4.30:1
I believe I'm 4400-4600 rpm in 3rd gear, but not 100% sure.
If I can get to 5800 in 3rd with 4.56's and my current tires, that will be the determining factor.

If I'm wrong and I shift into 4th. I'll be in overdrive at 3000 rpm at the traps, and have to shop for new tires.

I may scrap the entire gear swap and just add a rear LSD, then spray it :D
Why struggle for mid/low 13's when I can get 12's for less $$$.

I found a 4.10 rear end setup for 1200$ on the online mopar store. Went by the dealership to confirm what exactly it was that I would be receiving because it seemed cheap. And turns out to be everything you need for a gear swap. 1200$ aint bad. Im running 3.55s as well. I plan on swapping to 4.10s as my last mod on my truck.

I run the exact same tire as you when at the track. MT drag radials. just a different wheel.

Now that i saw those wheels (Your track wheels) on your ram. I may have found the set of wheels ive been searching for to put on mine :smileup:
 

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Also what program will they be using to do the custom tune on the Dyno? That is what i was going to do but a buddy of mine from the performance shop said the program has not come out yet. I believe he called it the HP TUNE
 

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HP Tuners has been saying they will be releasing tuning for chrysler for years. I am becoming doubtful it will ever happen, however when I emailed them they said they are in fact still planning on releasing it.

I believe BRH will be using diablo/CMR.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 · (Edited)
Good deal,
I remember looking into that 4.10 rear diff shortly after getting my Truck,
unfortunately the shipping to Canada would negate any savings,
and I've still got a front diff I'd have to match.

I'm looking at $1800 parts (Gears,Locker, bearings etc.) Front and Rear
and about $1500 in labor :158:

Diablo Tuners use Chip Master Revolution software (CMR)

Link: http://www.diablosport.com/index.php?module=htmlpages&func=display&pid=8http://www.diablosport.com/index.php?module=htmlpages&func=display&pid=8]
 

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4.30 would be a no-brainer, but that's not an option for a Chrysler 9.25 diff.
It all comes down to the number of teeth on the pinion in relation to the number of teeth on the ring gear.

as a result I'm afraid I'm faced with settling for 4.10's
or going to 4.56's and needing to buy 4 new DR's that sit about 29"-30" tall.

The key is definitely to stay out of 4th gear before hitting the traps.

I cant do any track testing or detailed calculations until I get back to the track,
I need to know my exact RPM's at the line but our track doesn't open until April 27th.

My effective gear ratio with 3.55's and 27" DR's is about 4.30:1
I believe I'm 4400-4600 rpm in 3rd gear, but not 100% sure.
If I can get to 5800 in 3rd with 4.56's and my current tires, that will be the determining factor.

If I'm wrong and I shift into 4th. I'll be in overdrive at 3000 rpm at the traps, and have to shop for new tires.

I may scrap the entire gear swap and just add a rear LSD, then spray it :D
Why struggle for mid/low 13's when I can get 12's for less $$$.


With you haveing 4wd i would probably ditch the gear swap and just do the lsd. Its really not worth the money. You could do a cam swap, stall or somthing and still be cheaper. With you crossing the line at that rpm i would try some spray and see what happens maybe a 100 shot and youll be deep in the 12s and if you have problems with rpms at tht point change tires or smthn. just my .2
 

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I found a 4.10 rear end setup for 1200$ on the online mopar store. Went by the dealership to confirm what exactly it was that I would be receiving because it seemed cheap. And turns out to be everything you need for a gear swap. 1200$ aint bad. Im running 3.55s as well. I plan on swapping to 4.10s as my last mod on my truck.

I run the exact same tire as you when at the track. MT drag radials. just a different wheel.

Now that i saw those wheels (Your track wheels) on your ram. I may have found the set of wheels ive been searching for to put on mine :smileup:
Does that include the LSD as well or is that just the gears, I'm a slight newb to this whole rear diff thing, I want to swap out the 3.55's for the 4.10's with a limited slip so I'm not peg legging it anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 · (Edited)
Does that include the LSD as well or is that just the gears, I'm a slight newb to this whole rear diff thing, I want to swap out the 3.55's for the 4.10's with a limited slip so I'm not peg legging it anymore.

It's the entire R/T rear axle assembly, all ready to bolt in
Housing, Gears, LSD Carrier, Axle Shafts already assembled.

I think all you do is swap your own brakes over.

http://moparonlineparts.com/repair-parts.php

third selection on this page...






The axle change is a pretty easy for the average shade tree mechanic to swap, just a driveshaft, control arms, track bar, brake lines.
installing and setting up a ring/pinon takes a skilled tech that can charge you more in labor than the price of the gears/carrier/install kit and bearings alone.

If your 3.55 rear axle is still fairly new, you can sell it to recoup some of your cost,
 

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swapping out the 3.55's for any other gearing upwards is a no brainer... doesn't make sense to mod everything else when the gearing should be a part of the list...
 

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Does that include the LSD as well or is that just the gears, I'm a slight newb to this whole rear diff thing, I want to swap out the 3.55's for the 4.10's with a limited slip so I'm not peg legging it anymore.
Exactly..
It's the entire R/T rear axle assembly, all ready to bolt in. Just have to transfer rotors, brakes i believe. So you wont peg leg it anymore with the 4.10 setup. The 4.10 comes on the R/T. Thats why he is saying its the R/T package. The 3.92 is an option on regular Ram 1500's. I think some 1500's come with a 3.72 (Dont catch me lying i am unsure of this)
 

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Good deal,
I remember looking into that 4.10 rear diff shortly after getting my Truck,
unfortunately the shipping to Canada would negate any savings,
and I've still got a front diff I'd have to match.

I'm looking at $1800 parts (Gears,Locker, bearings etc.) Front and Rear
and about $1500 in labor :158:

Diablo Tuners use Chip Master Revolution software (CMR)

Link: http://www.diablosport.com/index.php?module=htmlpages&func=display&pid=8
Oh yea haha shipping plus labor would kill you. Didnt take that into consideration. Since the mopar dealership is here I can just pick it up an do the install myself when i get around to getting myself the 4.10's.

Wow i was never introduced to this before. Am i seeing this right. 2500$? Or does the performance shop your going to already have this? That is pretty cool. I didnt know of this program.
 

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swapping out the 3.55's for any other gearing upwards is a no brainer... doesn't make sense to mod everything else when the gearing should be a part of the list...
Gearing is the last on the list. Because of $$$ & the time it will take me to do the install myself :LOL:

Definitely a MUST If i want to reach my goal or rather have a complete build.
 
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