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Discussion Starter · #61 · (Edited)
Oh yea haha shipping plus labor would kill you. Didnt take that into consideration. Since the mopar dealership is here I can just pick it up an do the install myself when i get around to getting myself the 4.10's.

Wow i was never introduced to this before. Am i seeing this right. 2500$? Or does the performance shop your going to already have this? That is pretty cool. I didnt know of this program.
Oh I could swap the entire axle over myself,shipping it here would be +$500 though, but that's just the Rear
There is no such thing as a Mopar Front 4.10 axle for a 1500 Ram. So I would still have to buy aftermarket, and pay someone to swap the R&P up front for my 4x4.

I'm going to bite the bullet and go with 4.56's and a True Trac... Go Big or Go Home!
No use going half assed now, I want to be a street killer too, not just at the track. :D
Need to make a few passes with my new headers first though, will look into the gear swap mid summer when its too hot for racing.
Then I'll be back to the track in fall to destroy the competition.
 

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haha ok cool. cant wait to see it! where you gettin your trutrac from?
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
In order to get gears,lockers and labor all under warranty it has to come from the same local shop,supplier.

otherwise if there's a massive failure no one would claim the failure was their fault while your stranded with a broke-ass truck.

I've dealt with two local supplier/installers for many of my Jeeps,
will be shopping them against each other for the best deal.
 

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In order to get gears,lockers and labor all under warranty it has to come from the same local shop,supplier.

otherwise if there's a massive failure no one would claim the failure was their fault while your stranded with a broke-ass truck.

I've dealt with two local supplier/installers for many of my Jeeps,
will be shopping them against each other for the best deal.
Yea your right.

Thats why you have to always keep your original parts!!:smileup:

It breaks put your 3.55 gears back on. Of course 1800$ is NOT easy to swallow. So getting it covered under warranty may be a good route. just a lot more $$$ but worth it IF and only IF it breaks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 · (Edited)
Yea your right.

Thats why you have to always keep your original parts!!:smileup:

It breaks put your 3.55 gears back on. Of course 1800$ is NOT easy to swallow. So getting it covered under warranty may be a good route. just a lot more $$$ but worth it IF and only IF it breaks.

No, you dont keep the 3.55's and reinstall them if something breaks :LOL:

I meant the warranty on the new gears/locker (usually 12 -24 months) and the shops installation warranty.

Not the Dodge factory warranty, if my engine blows or my power windows stop working, that's covered by Chrysler
aftermarket part failures fall under their own warranty (lift kits, drop kits, Magnaflow CatBacks ....etc , and Yes gears/lockers too
 

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The rear end is from Mopar. You shouldnt have to worry about warranty. It should be indestructible! :bsflag:

Haha. I understand what your saying.
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 · (Edited)
We're not talking apples to apples here,
You asked where I'm getting my TrueTrac

When I say I'm going to a "local shop" for ALL the parts/labor
I meant a specialty performance gear supplier/installer ...not a Dodge Dealer. Mopar is out of the question at this point for me.

I would be getting a non factory Detroit TrueTrac and likely Yukon Gear sets, 4.56's and master install kits, Front and Rear.

I have to have the same shop that supplies the parts to do the installation.

If there is a failure shortly after installing it all and I shear a couple teeth off the pinion, it gets into the helical gears of the TrueTrac.
There's a huge finger pointing session between the Gear supplier, Eaton (the TruTRack supplier) and the Shop that did the actual install,
if all three are sourced from different outlets.

I once blew a rear diff on a Jeep with Motive 4.56's and an ARB Air Locker.
Traced it what I thought was a weak pinion, sheared 3 teeth off. But try to prove it.....no way

Trouble was I bought the ARB from one supplier, the gears from another to save a few bucks, the install was a third shop.

All three would point to the other if I tried to get it repaired under warranty.

So I ended up getting all replacements ordered and installed from the same shop,
and they said if it breaks again within a year its ALL covered.
Same shop supplies and installs or not at all from now on, lesson learned.
 

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OK ok im on track with it now. I was under the impression we were talking about getting your gears from mopar and your trutrack from somewhere else. And having a shop do the work. But i follow you now. Thats pretty good you found everything at one shop. I cant wait to see how you do in the 1/4 mile. compared to your 3.55 gears.
 

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I was just making a joke about mopar if you had gone with their 4.10 gears lol
 

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i got 3.55 gears and my truck is 4x4. i want atleast 3.92 gears for my truck. how much is this gonna run me. roughly?
 

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umm guessing i would say between 1.5k and 2.5k depending on how the 2013 front and rear carriers are.
parts and labor? i've rebuilt a 9" ford rear end before (never tested) but i wanna leave this to some pros lol

im not lazy around the garage. did a year of schooling for millwright but hate school
 

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I couldn't justify nearly $3500 (local rip off on parts and labor in Canada))

...only to pick up a couple tenths

So for $3700 I grabbed a Ripp supercharger DIY kit
...and will drop a couple seconds instead :gy:
well there ya go!! hahah yeah more horse power and torque should make up for the gears :LOL:

that the stage I kit?
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 · (Edited)

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Stage 1? Oh hell no,
Got me a custom built trans from L&M customs (pic's in my build thread)
an ATS Triple Lok 3000 stall and an Alcohol Injection System,

....will be a full blown 500whp when I'm done.

http://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=65939&page=21
I've always built my engines around the cam with the carbs and gear following. I think a 4.56 swap would have involved too much money and another cam swap to match those gears. I think you made the right decision with your SC and new trans. I'm pulling for you! :woohoo:
 

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Discussion Starter · #78 · (Edited)
Well I do still have my 28" DR's on light-weight 17" aluminum wheels for the track,
...That alone drops my gear ratio to an effective 4.30:1 anyway ;)
(in addition to dropping 120lbs in weight/rolling resistance, and 2.75" ride height)

So although I'm still 3.55's on the street, and getting better gas mileage
...my Drag tire/wheel setup gets me the performance of a gear swap for less than half the cost (on a 4x4)

The only real down side is the extra time for track prep,
it takes an extra hour to swap all four tires/wheels over,
plus removing mudflaps and back flip tonneau.

Freak'n 305/50R20 Grapplers on stock 20's are almost 100lbs per corner and don't hook very well




My Fly-Weight track setup drops 4-5 tenths off my ET's...
Full throttle launch with a 3000 stall on 4DR's using AWD is a Woot!
Guy's at the track say they feel defeated before they even know what happened
when they are left at the tree and often spin out for fear of me leaving them behind. (1.8 sec 60 times NA)



it sure looks bad-ass sittin lower too..

<- Buddy's stock height 4x4 on stock height tires (look at the difference in mirror height)
I can probably drive under his mirror without hitting it

 

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Hell yeah. I forgot you were 4x4. That is wayyy to expensive so I can see your problem. Lol.


Damn that trucks going to be quick!!
 
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