First things first, if you do not have an aftermarket headunit installed you will need something like this line converter to hookup between the factory cd player and the amp. Since you do not mention and aftermarket HU i will add some instructions as if you are using the stock cd player. I am also assuming you have the basic 4 speaker system.hey guys, this is going to be my first time taking on some wiring in my truck. planning on putting two of these subs
and one of these amps
using this wiring kit
I was wondering if I could get some kind of instructions as to which wires go where, if the power levels, amp fits subs, all go together, etc. also wondering what will need grounding. Thanks in advance, hope someone can help me. lol
Thick red wire goes from the battery +POS to the + Battery POS terminal on the amp with an inline fuse as close to the battery as possible. I always try to find an existing hole thru the firewall with an existing grommet.
Thick black wire goes from the - Terminal on the amp to a good ground on the chassis of the truck.
Thin blue wire is the remote turn-on wire. It tells the amp when to turn on and off. Being you do not have an aftermarket HU and the wire carries very little current, i usually just tie it into my fuse panel or wire that is powered with the accessory switch (key). You can use a Fuse Tap and install it where the fuse us for the power windows or something else that turns on as an accessory.
The speaker wires go from the amp Left+ / Left - Right + / Right - go from the speaker box to the amp. Red is normally + and black is normally - on the speaker box.
The line converter needs to be tapped into the rear speaker outputs on your stock speaker wires. Doesnt really matter where you tap in at, but it will take additional speaker wire. It might be easiest to tap in at the HU so you will not have to run wires into the doors. Then you can hide the converter within the dash and just run the RCA cables back to the amp from the converter.
There is a lot of info here, so feel free to pm me if you should have further questions.
I am not sure where your rear speakers are located, but ive always thought of those (rear) speakers as "rear fill". So as long as they are not blown or horribly distorted, i would leave them alone. In other words, they are not really suppose to stand out, but just fill in the sound from the rear. Doesnt take much to provide rear fill.Not sure how to search this, so I'll just ask...
2012 Reg Cab Express, aftermarket Nav...speaker/sub plan/questions.
I plan on replacing my door speakers with 6.5 components and appropriate amp. My sub plan is something simple...just an 8" or 10" probably just behind the center console area.
My question is, given this setup, would changing the rear speakers be necessary/beneficial? I'm not an audiophile, but if it is worth the $$$ and trouble, I want to look into it.
Many thanks for any advice.
I also noticed the same thing when i was searching for speakers on crutchfield. Me personally will be ordering 6x9s. As long as the dimensions appear to fit depth wise i will be ordering them. The basket may have something to do with it I would try to find the shallowest 6x9 you can with the thinnest basket you can.in my 2011 ram if i look at crutchfield for speakers it states that biggest i can use is 6 1/2 .i took my door panel off today and it had a 6x9 behind it. i measured the distance from the window bracket to the area where the speaker mounts. (3 1/16 ) upon checking some 6x9 speakers for mounting depth i determind that depth wise they should fit. is the issue of them not fitting due the cage in the back of the speaker being too wide or am i missing some other info? i see where my dealer has 6x9 kicker speakers that will fit. any help is appreciated .
Personally i try to get as close as i can without going over the the RMS power rating on the speakers. You are over your rating, but most speakers have a "Peak" wattage above the RMS rating. I would be careful and keep the bass turned back a bit. But as long as you are not full blast nonstop you should be ok.Amp/Speaker RMS delimma:
I have a set of Polk MM6501 in my truck currently running off of an Alpine F300 amp which is rated at 50 RMS. I decided to upgrade to a more powerful amp to to give the Polks closer to their 125 RMS rating. I purchased the Rockford 300-2 which is rated at 75 RMS 4 ohm, 150 RMS 2 ohm. With the 2.7 ohm load of the MM6501's it should be about perfect. However, when I received the amp, the birthsheet has it rated at 117 RMS at 4 ohm, 182 RMS at 2 ohm(normally a good thing to be rated higher). Doing the math at 2.7 ohms, I have the amp putting out about 159 RMS to my speakers rated at 125 RMS. So do I just need to be careful with my volume/gain or should I be looking for a different amp?
I am unsure exactly how everthing ties together in your truck, but i would check and make sure the SAT antenna is actually installed on your truck and everything is connected correctly. Even though some stereos say SAT ready, you usually still have to buy the antenna and wire that plugs into the HU itself.First thing thankyou for your knowledge and input
Itryedto post a ? Dont know where it went
If daniel or jared has a fix or info on why my sat radio wont boot up It would make my new year Hers whats up with my rig 2006 Ram 1500 stock from factory Asfar as i know it is sat ready My kids got me a sirius subscription and for some reason it wont activate The rep at sirius tryed to reset the signal 3 times and it wont take. The stereo was replaced by dealer for cd malfunction every thing else is ok Are the antennas for the unit seperate ie radio and sat Our dealer here in steamboat springs has a bad rep for repairs Thanx again for all and any assistance to the members of a fantastic site Seeya Big Dog 2008