DODGE RAM FORUM banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
761 - 780 of 1037 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
hey guys, this is going to be my first time taking on some wiring in my truck. planning on putting two of these subs

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014LE9UG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_10?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

and one of these amps

http://www.amazon.com/Pyramid-PB717X-2-Channel-Bridgeable-Amplifier/dp/B000E432TI/ref=pd_bxgy_e_img_c

using this wiring kit

http://www.amazon.com/KIT-2-Complete-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B000FKP7TY/ref=pd_bxgy_e_img_b

I was wondering if I could get some kind of instructions as to which wires go where, if the power levels, amp fits subs, all go together, etc. also wondering what will need grounding. Thanks in advance, hope someone can help me. lol
First things first, if you do not have an aftermarket headunit installed you will need something like this line converter to hookup between the factory cd player and the amp. Since you do not mention and aftermarket HU i will add some instructions as if you are using the stock cd player. I am also assuming you have the basic 4 speaker system.
Thick red wire goes from the battery +POS to the + Battery POS terminal on the amp with an inline fuse as close to the battery as possible. I always try to find an existing hole thru the firewall with an existing grommet.
Thick black wire goes from the - Terminal on the amp to a good ground on the chassis of the truck.
Thin blue wire is the remote turn-on wire. It tells the amp when to turn on and off. Being you do not have an aftermarket HU and the wire carries very little current, i usually just tie it into my fuse panel or wire that is powered with the accessory switch (key). You can use a Fuse Tap and install it where the fuse us for the power windows or something else that turns on as an accessory.
The speaker wires go from the amp Left+ / Left - Right + / Right - go from the speaker box to the amp. Red is normally + and black is normally - on the speaker box.
The line converter needs to be tapped into the rear speaker outputs on your stock speaker wires. Doesnt really matter where you tap in at, but it will take additional speaker wire. It might be easiest to tap in at the HU so you will not have to run wires into the doors. Then you can hide the converter within the dash and just run the RCA cables back to the amp from the converter.
There is a lot of info here, so feel free to pm me if you should have further questions.

Not sure how to search this, so I'll just ask...

2012 Reg Cab Express, aftermarket Nav...speaker/sub plan/questions.

I plan on replacing my door speakers with 6.5 components and appropriate amp. My sub plan is something simple...just an 8" or 10" probably just behind the center console area.

My question is, given this setup, would changing the rear speakers be necessary/beneficial? I'm not an audiophile, but if it is worth the $$$ and trouble, I want to look into it.

Many thanks for any advice.
I am not sure where your rear speakers are located, but ive always thought of those (rear) speakers as "rear fill". So as long as they are not blown or horribly distorted, i would leave them alone. In other words, they are not really suppose to stand out, but just fill in the sound from the rear. Doesnt take much to provide rear fill.


in my 2011 ram if i look at crutchfield for speakers it states that biggest i can use is 6 1/2 .i took my door panel off today and it had a 6x9 behind it. i measured the distance from the window bracket to the area where the speaker mounts. (3 1/16 ) upon checking some 6x9 speakers for mounting depth i determind that depth wise they should fit. is the issue of them not fitting due the cage in the back of the speaker being too wide or am i missing some other info? i see where my dealer has 6x9 kicker speakers that will fit. any help is appreciated .
I also noticed the same thing when i was searching for speakers on crutchfield. Me personally will be ordering 6x9s. As long as the dimensions appear to fit depth wise i will be ordering them. The basket may have something to do with it I would try to find the shallowest 6x9 you can with the thinnest basket you can.

Amp/Speaker RMS delimma:

I have a set of Polk MM6501 in my truck currently running off of an Alpine F300 amp which is rated at 50 RMS. I decided to upgrade to a more powerful amp to to give the Polks closer to their 125 RMS rating. I purchased the Rockford 300-2 which is rated at 75 RMS 4 ohm, 150 RMS 2 ohm. With the 2.7 ohm load of the MM6501's it should be about perfect. However, when I received the amp, the birthsheet has it rated at 117 RMS at 4 ohm, 182 RMS at 2 ohm(normally a good thing to be rated higher). Doing the math at 2.7 ohms, I have the amp putting out about 159 RMS to my speakers rated at 125 RMS. So do I just need to be careful with my volume/gain or should I be looking for a different amp?
Personally i try to get as close as i can without going over the the RMS power rating on the speakers. You are over your rating, but most speakers have a "Peak" wattage above the RMS rating. I would be careful and keep the bass turned back a bit. But as long as you are not full blast nonstop you should be ok.

First thing thankyou for your knowledge and input
Itryedto post a ? Dont know where it went
If daniel or jared has a fix or info on why my sat radio wont boot up It would make my new year Hers whats up with my rig 2006 Ram 1500 stock from factory Asfar as i know it is sat ready My kids got me a sirius subscription and for some reason it wont activate The rep at sirius tryed to reset the signal 3 times and it wont take. The stereo was replaced by dealer for cd malfunction every thing else is ok Are the antennas for the unit seperate ie radio and sat Our dealer here in steamboat springs has a bad rep for repairs Thanx again for all and any assistance to the members of a fantastic site Seeya Big Dog 2008
I am unsure exactly how everthing ties together in your truck, but i would check and make sure the SAT antenna is actually installed on your truck and everything is connected correctly. Even though some stereos say SAT ready, you usually still have to buy the antenna and wire that plugs into the HU itself.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
885 Posts
First things first, if you do not have an aftermarket headunit installed you will need something like this line converter to hookup between the factory cd player and the amp. Since you do not mention and aftermarket HU i will add some instructions as if you are using the stock cd player. I am also assuming you have the basic 4 speaker system.
Thick red wire goes from the battery +POS to the + Battery POS terminal on the amp with an inline fuse as close to the battery as possible. I always try to find an existing hole thru the firewall with an existing grommet.
Thick black wire goes from the - Terminal on the amp to a good ground on the chassis of the truck.
Thin blue wire is the remote turn-on wire. It tells the amp when to turn on and off. Being you do not have an aftermarket HU and the wire carries very little current, i usually just tie it into my fuse panel or wire that is powered with the accessory switch (key). You can use a Fuse Tap and install it where the fuse us for the power windows or something else that turns on as an accessory.
The speaker wires go from the amp Left+ / Left - Right + / Right - go from the speaker box to the amp. Red is normally + and black is normally - on the speaker box.
The line converter needs to be tapped into the rear speaker outputs on your stock speaker wires. Doesnt really matter where you tap in at, but it will take additional speaker wire. It might be easiest to tap in at the HU so you will not have to run wires into the doors. Then you can hide the converter within the dash and just run the RCA cables back to the amp from the converter.
There is a lot of info here, so feel free to pm me if you should have further questions.


I actually do have a after market HU, forgot to mention. Also I read a really good article on wiring and have a good idea of everything your telling me. Have all the stuff in just need to make the box now. Will I run into problems if I dont have space to make my box 1.0 Cubic feed exactly (recommended in box)? The last thing im confused about is are there two different speaker wires or do I just run the same black speaker wire on both + and - and just keep track of which is which? also thanks a lot for responding.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
First things first, if you do not have an aftermarket headunit installed you will need something like this line converter to hookup between the factory cd player and the amp. Since you do not mention and aftermarket HU i will add some instructions as if you are using the stock cd player. I am also assuming you have the basic 4 speaker system.
Thick red wire goes from the battery +POS to the + Battery POS terminal on the amp with an inline fuse as close to the battery as possible. I always try to find an existing hole thru the firewall with an existing grommet.
Thick black wire goes from the - Terminal on the amp to a good ground on the chassis of the truck.
Thin blue wire is the remote turn-on wire. It tells the amp when to turn on and off. Being you do not have an aftermarket HU and the wire carries very little current, i usually just tie it into my fuse panel or wire that is powered with the accessory switch (key). You can use a Fuse Tap and install it where the fuse us for the power windows or something else that turns on as an accessory.
The speaker wires go from the amp Left+ / Left - Right + / Right - go from the speaker box to the amp. Red is normally + and black is normally - on the speaker box.
The line converter needs to be tapped into the rear speaker outputs on your stock speaker wires. Doesnt really matter where you tap in at, but it will take additional speaker wire. It might be easiest to tap in at the HU so you will not have to run wires into the doors. Then you can hide the converter within the dash and just run the RCA cables back to the amp from the converter.
There is a lot of info here, so feel free to pm me if you should have further questions.

I actually do have a after market HU, forgot to mention. Also I read a really good article on wiring and have a good idea of everything your telling me. Have all the stuff in just need to make the box now. Will I run into problems if I dont have space to make my box 1.0 Cubic feed exactly (recommended in box)? The last thing im confused about is are there two different speaker wires or do I just run the same black speaker wire on both + and - and just keep track of which is which? also thanks a lot for responding.
Well i am not exactly sure what you are asking but i think i know. You have a total of 30' of speaker cable with the kit. Cut it in half and make (2) 15' pieces a left + and - and a Right + and - (one pair for each sub). When you look at it closely, there should actually 2 separate wires molded together in each 15' run. One of the 2 wires per 15' run should either have a + on the gray molding or a black line that runs the full length. That should help you decipher which wire goes where.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
885 Posts
Well i am not exactly sure what you are asking but i think i know. You have a total of 30' of speaker cable with the kit. Cut it in half and make (2) 15' pieces a left + and - and a Right + and - (one pair for each sub). When you look at it closely, there should actually 2 separate wires molded together in each 15' run. One of the 2 wires per 15' run should either have a + on the gray molding or a black line that runs the full length. That should help you decipher which wire goes where.
Thank you, I think I understand
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
I'm looking at getting either 2 12" Alpine Type R's, 12" JL W3's, or 12" Cerwin Vega Vmax's. I'm trying to decide which amp will be best to use in powering them. I'm more concerned with sound quality than the amount of bass. I've seen that the Hifonics BRZ1200.1D can be found for a good deal. Also with the 2ohm, 4ohm selection which will produce the best sound quality when paired up with the appropriate amp? Thanks in advance for any the help. If ya'll have any comments or suggestions on the subs I've mentioned please feel free to speak out! Also would I be better off buying a fox box for $175 or getting a shop to build one for my truck?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
i have a 2010 ram 1500 and i just bought 2 10 inch jl audio w'3 4ohm, and a jl audio 500/1v2 amp... but i need a box to go under the back seat..... should i get a custom one or does anyone offer a fitted box already that is reliable?
Custom. No question. Find a good shop in your area, or I'll do it and mail it to you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Agreed, Custom is almost always better if the shop can actually build a good box. As for SQ i really cant compare the 3. I have heard good things about all three brands.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Just wondering if anyone can let me know how to change my factory touch screen monitor to allow it to play DvD's while im driving. Its the system without Navi (2011 dodge Ram Sport)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Just wondering if anyone can let me know how to change my factory touch screen monitor to allow it to play DvD's while im driving. Its the system without Navi (2011 dodge Ram Sport)
I personally did not know, but after minimal research, this is probably your best bet. CLICKY Good luck bud!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
I have a 2011 with Alpine 10 speaker system. Is it possible to retain the factory amp to power the factory speakers but also add an aftermarket amp to power an aftermarket sub? Keeping the stock HU.

I've searched extensively in this forum and it seems I would need a sound processor but not sure exactly how to install it.

Any thoughts?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Need somebody with first hand experience to help me out. I'm looking at doing 2 12" subs in a ported Fox Acoustics Box. They say to do the Alpine Type R's. I'm not necessarily looking to win a bass contest. I want more sound quality than sound pressure. I'm considering the R's($260), the W3's($350), and the Cerwin Vega VMax's($244). Also amp-wise I've got a guy looking to sell me a JL Audio 1000/1v2 for $500. What I need to know is....Which sub will give me the best sound quality (full range of music), is that a good amp to run them with, and should I get 2ohm or 4ohm subs. I know they are all dual voice coil but I don't really understand the whole series and parallel deal with wiring. Your help will be greatly appreciated and feel free to answer here, send me a PM, or email me at [email protected]. I'm having trouble figuring out which would be best.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
I have a 2011 with Alpine 10 speaker system. Is it possible to retain the factory amp to power the factory speakers but also add an aftermarket amp to power an aftermarket sub? Keeping the stock HU.

I've searched extensively in this forum and it seems I would need a sound processor but not sure exactly how to install it.

Any thoughts?
Actually it is very easy, many people run their vehicles like this that want to keep the factory HU.

Just pickup something like this! get that tied into your factory speaker wires and the rest is a typical stereo/amp install.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
93 Posts
Need somebody with first hand experience to help me out. I'm looking at doing 2 12" subs in a ported Fox Acoustics Box. They say to do the Alpine Type R's. I'm not necessarily looking to win a bass contest. I want more sound quality than sound pressure. I'm considering the R's($260), the W3's($350), and the Cerwin Vega VMax's($244). Also amp-wise I've got a guy looking to sell me a JL Audio 1000/1v2 for $500. What I need to know is....Which sub will give me the best sound quality (full range of music), is that a good amp to run them with, and should I get 2ohm or 4ohm subs. I know they are all dual voice coil but I don't really understand the whole series and parallel deal with wiring. Your help will be greatly appreciated and feel free to answer here, send me a PM, or email me at [email protected]. I'm having trouble figuring out which would be best.
All 3 brands provide good quality, the price will be the deciding factor. I have never liked JL for this exact reason. Their prices are steep for what you get in return. If that JL amp isn't brand new i would pass. You can find those amps on ebay brand new for $5-600. The ohms of the woofers will depend on the minimum ohm of the amplifier you are buying.

Check out this page http://rockfordfosgate.com/Support/rftech.aspx#wiringwizard
it will help you figure out which woofers are correct for your amplifier. Read through the specs of the amp, if it says it will do 1ohm and you want to run it at 1ohm you would need 2 dvc (dual voice coil) 4ohm woofers (just an example). That website will also explain how to wire the woofers correctly.

With two 12's make sure to check out the airspace requirements as well and make sure they don't need a massive amount of airspace...because you just wont get it without removing the seat. Remember, if both woofers need 1.5 cubic feet that means your box will have to be 3 cubic feet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Thanks for your help. The amp he is selling is brand new. I didn't know whether or not it was worth it to get the high dollar jl amp or get 2 1000w sony amps (I have some sony money to spend). The box advertised by fox acoustics is claimed to have 1.55 cubic feet on each side ported and 1.22 cubic feet on each side sealed. Pretty good bit of room.

All 3 brands provide good quality, the price will be the deciding factor. I have never liked JL for this exact reason. Their prices are steep for what you get in return. If that JL amp isn't brand new i would pass. You can find those amps on ebay brand new for $5-600. The ohms of the woofers will depend on the minimum ohm of the amplifier you are buying.

Check out this page http://rockfordfosgate.com/Support/rftech.aspx#wiringwizard
it will help you figure out which woofers are correct for your amplifier. Read through the specs of the amp, if it says it will do 1ohm and you want to run it at 1ohm you would need 2 dvc (dual voice coil) 4ohm woofers (just an example). That website will also explain how to wire the woofers correctly.

With two 12's make sure to check out the airspace requirements as well and make sure they don't need a massive amount of airspace...because you just wont get it without removing the seat. Remember, if both woofers need 1.5 cubic feet that means your box will have to be 3 cubic feet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
93 Posts
Thanks for your help. The amp he is selling is brand new. I didn't know whether or not it was worth it to get the high dollar jl amp or get 2 1000w sony amps (I have some sony money to spend). The box advertised by fox acoustics is claimed to have 1.55 cubic feet on each side ported and 1.22 cubic feet on each side sealed. Pretty good bit of room.
Look at it this way...1000 watts rms @ 14.4 volts is 1000 watts rms @ 14.4 volts.

Read: RMS is your important number, "max" power means dick. There are amplifier makers (easily found at walmart) who are producing a "10,000 watt" amplifier for $150....this reading is measured at more likely around 20 volts (your vehicle will NEVER produce this) and that is the highest number they recorded before the amplifier fried itself.



Sony, JL, Planet Audio, Diamond Audio, it doesn't matter. One power reading at the same voltage is going to be the exact same no matter what company you buy. The problem with big name brands, is just that, you're paying for the brand. Like buying a escalade. You can get all the same options if you buy a yukon for $10k less, but because it has the caddy logo on it, it costs more.

Hope this helps you out....let me just say that for $500 you could buy a LOT of amplifier....that will produce more than 1000 watts rms......make sure to read reviews on the amplifier you're looking at though. Cheaper price does not always mean better reliability...if it sounds too good to be true, it probably is.

That box should work just fine for most 12's. Make sure to check the mounting depth as well and make sure there's some extra room at the bottom of the box for the magnet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
I was wondering if anyone had diagrams on how to build a sub box for under the ack set f my 03 1500, i really don't want to buy something i could make. If ANYONE could help with dimensions/directions/instructions on how i should make one please private message me, i haven't really learned how to use this forum too well
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Adding Factory Steering Wheel Controls

So I just got my brand new Ram 1500 Express with RES-RSC radio. Main reason I upgraded to the bluetooth capable was for music streaming, NOT phone calls. One big problem, I expected to have some steering wheel controls and I have none! Not sure if this was an option because I was never mentioned it. Cut to the chase, I know for a fact that the RES-RSC is steering wheel control capable so is it possible for me to install the actual controls myself? I am pretty experienced in audio and electronics but I wonder if this is out of my realm of expertise. There are blanks on the back of the steering wheel for the controls so I wonder if all I need is the correct wiring and the actual control hardware. Pretty pissed off about this because I custom ordered the truck for a reason, to get exactly what I wanted, then I don't get exactly what I wanted. We all know what happens when you assume and I assumed that a bluetooth, voice recognition, uconnect vehicle would come with $5 extra dollars in parts to add steering wheel controls. Now I bet it will cost me hundreds to change it myself or a nice grand at the dealer. Sad thing is, I would pay it LOL.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Does anyone know of a cheaper under the seat box for 07 Quad Cab? I want to upgrade but need to stay around $400 for subs box and amp
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Greetings... newb here! I just spent 2 hours and 45 minutes reading through 78 pages and have come close to answering my question... just need final nod by the gurus on one of 3 options.
I have: 2007 Ram 1500 SLT QC. Basic sound system with the 2 knob head unit. I have no speakers in my dash so I believe I only have them in the doors. I presume I have no amp?
Upgrading to Alpine INA-W900BT head unit. Short term sollution is to just replace HU and make it work. Eventually add amp, subs, and door speakers. I could add amp when I install HU but cash not there for speakers yet.
I have amassed (so far): Mopar Nav dash trim. American International dash kit. Pac Audio TR7 Video lock bypass. Metra 40-CR10 Antenna adapter.
Dilemma: I have lost my marbles and my gf's marbles too lol.... trying to figure out which adapter I need! I have read 3 scenario's in this forum and then I've gone and researched online to no avail. I'm sure somewhere in this forum the true answer lays... but 2 hrs 45 mins of reading and I may have missed it. The 3 options as I understand are: PAC C2A-CHY, PAC C2R-CHY4 or the infamous basic harness adapter (no model number ever given) and tap into the ciggy lighter for juice.
I want to keep full functionality of the truck and the new hu with nav and rear cam etc. Keep in mind that, unless you advise I do at the same time as the hu install, I will eventually add an amp....I'm looking at the Alpine PDX-5.
Please save what little sanity I have remaining! Which adapter!??!?!?!?

Oh ps... and any other recomondations would be greatly appreciated!

Regards...... :)
 
761 - 780 of 1037 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top