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Discussion Starter #1
Well, just tonight, I was getting on the freeway and I was getting on the truck pretty good - Got it up to 4500 RPMs, etc and about a 1/4 mile down the freeway, the "Check Gages" light came on. I checked the gauges and the voltage gauge was down to nothing and I noticed the gauge lights dim slightly. First thing I thought was I blew out the alternator. Well, as I checked the other gauges, I noticed the temp gauge creeping up to just about the "H" limit. I immediately pulled the truck to the side of the road, turned it off, and popped the hood. Steam rolling out of everywhere. I could smell the coolant burning. Since I had no flashlight, I couldn't inspect too much and called AAA and had it towed home. Upon inspecting, I could not find ANY cracks or leaks in the hoses and the radiator was still 7/8 of the way full with the resovoir about 1/2" below the "MIN" line. I still have yet to discover where all the coolant came from so I started the truck to see if I could find any spray... Nothing. However, I did noticed the center pulley that the fan is mounted to jerking around a lot when the fan runs - So much to the point that the back side of the pulley was grinding against the aluminum behind it. Is this the water pump? What happened to my truck?? Please, any input is greatly appreciated!

2004 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 Quad Cab
89,000 miles

:4-dontknow:
 

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Yup, your water pump is shot. It's not uncommon on the 4.7 and 5.7 motors. If you're handy with a ratchet, you can fix this yourself, but you will need a 36mm wrench or fan tool to remove the clutch fan from the water pump. The threads are right handed. If you have a 3.7/4.7 the pump bolts torque to 40 ft lbs. If you have a Hemi, they torque to 18 ft lbs.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Yup, your water pump is shot. It's not uncommon on the 4.7 and 5.7 motors. If you're handy with a ratchet, you can fix this yourself, but you will need a 36mm wrench or fan tool to remove the clutch fan from the water pump. The threads are right handed. If you have a 3.7/4.7 the pump bolts torque to 40 ft lbs. If you have a Hemi, they torque to 18 ft lbs.
Thanks for the speedy response! I'm pretty good with tools and working on my own vehicles, but since I haven't quite worked on my truck yet, it'll be a new experience. It is, in fact, the 4.7L and I'm kinda' glad that this is a "common" problem, in a way. Do you have any ideas on where the coolant come from that sprayed everywhere? That's bothering me. Also, is there anything else I should be concerned about when the water pump took a dump? Also, about how long should replacing a water pump take? Just as a guesstimate?
 

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The bearings in the water pump let go and took the seals out with them. Thats where your coolant came from.
3.7L/4.7L ENGINE

The water pump on 3.7L/4.7L engines is bolted directly to the engine timing chain case cover.
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Drain cooling system.
  3. Remove fan/viscous fan drive assembly from water pump . Do not attempt to remove fan/viscous fan drive assembly from vehicle at this time. WARNING: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES. WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF CLAMP. ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN SERVICING CONSTANT TENSION CLAMPS.
    CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the tongue of constant tension clamps. If replacement is necessary, use only an original equipment clamp with matching number or letter and width.
  4. If the water pump is being replaced, do not unbolt the fan blade assembly from the thermal viscous fan drive.
  5. Remove the radiator fan.
  6. Remove accessory drive belt.
  7. Remove the lower radiator hose clamp and remove the lower hose at the water pump.
  8. Remove the water pump mounting bolts. CAUTION: Do not pry water pump at timing chain case/cover. The machined surfaces may be damaged resulting in leaks.
  9. Remove the water pump and gasket. Discard gasket.
3.7L/4.7L ENGINE

The water pump on 3.7L/4.7L engine is bolted directly to the engine timing chain case cover.
  1. Clean the gasket mating surfaces.
  2. Using a new gasket, position water pump and install the mounting bolts. Tighten the water pump mounting bolts to 58 N·m (43 ft. lbs.).
  3. Spin the water pump to be sure that the pump impeller does not rub against the timing chain case/cover.
  4. Connect the radiator lower hose to the water pump.
  5. Relax the tension from the belt tensioner. Install the drive belt. CAUTION: When installing the serpentine accessory drive belt, the belt must be routed correctly. If not, the engine may overheat due to the water pump rotating in the wrong direction. Refer to (Belt Routing 3.7L) for the correct belt routing. Or, refer to the Belt Routing Label located in the engine compartment. The correct belt with correct length must be used.
  6. Install the radiator fan.
  7. Fill cooling system.
  8. Connect the negative battery cable.
  9. Start and warm the engine. Check for leaks.
A tip on bleeding air from the cooling system: Remove the bleeder plug from the neck where the upper hose attaches and remove the radiator cap. Use a trans funnel to fill the engine through the bleeder until you fill the radiator. Replace the bleeder and finish topping off the radiator. This method usually works, but the 3.7/4.7 engines are notorious for trapping air in them.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
:rep:

Thanks!!

Now... $52.99 Duralast Water Pump from AutoZone?
 

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I haven't had any experience with aftermarket pumps for these engines since I work at a dealership. Id check the price at the dealer and then decide.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I haven't had any experience with aftermarket pumps for these engines since I work at a dealership. Id check the price at the dealer and then decide.
Good call. I got a buddy that works at a Dodge dealership, so I'll check with him first. Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well, it looks like ~$120 for the water pump from a Dodge dealership and I found one at Advance Auto Parts for about $60 with a lifetime warranty. I think I might go the "Advance" route. I can't fathom spending twice as much for a water pump with a one year warranty.

Are there any other tools I'll be needing other than a ratchet (with some sockets, obviously) and the 36mm wrench?
 

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No, nothing special on top the the 36mm to get the fan off the pump. You should be able to do the majority of the job with basic hand tools.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well, I'm getting ready to head out in the snow to do this, but I had one more question... (If it doesn't get answered, I could probably sift through the owner's manual to try to find it) But, what kind of coolant capacity does the entire cooling system have since I have to drain everything out. Also, is there a product or something that I should look into for flushing the radiator and hoses out while I'm doing all of this?
 

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Not sure of the quantity Mike . Should be in your owners manual . I haven't received my shop manual for these years yet . Shouldn't need to flush it , if your draining it out and doing a fresh fill . I would recommend when you do your 50-50 mix to do it with distilled water . It's pure water no minerals in it . No minerals , lot less chance of having deposits in your cooling system .
 

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i dont know the capacity either but that probably wont matter as your not going to get ALL the coolant out when you pull the lower hose so it require the total cooling system capacity to fill it isnt going to happen. im sure remeson will chime in with the answer , he knows everything.. and i mean that in a totally 100% totally non sarcastic way.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks guys. From what I could find on the interwebs, the capacity is a little over 4 gallons, but I realized that I won't be draining the entire system, so I just picked up 2 gallons. I'm inside right now re-warming my hands and going back out to swing at it some more. Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Alright, well the project's all done... Well, I can't really say all the way done, but the truck's back together... Now - Another problem? I put everything back together and filled the radiator up with coolant and I started up the truck to get it warm enough to open the thermostat. The truck got up to about halfway on the temp gauge and then it started to drop back down... I assumed the thermostat opened which is why the temp gauge starting backing down. At this time, I have no heat to my heater and my clutch for the AC compressor hasn't kicked on yet and I don't see any activity in the radiator. Is it normal to not see activity at the top of the radiator. I let the truck idle for about 15 minutes and everything seems to be running alright - No high temp issues or anything, but it's odd that the heater's not getting warm. Is this something that will "work out" when I actually drive it? Is it safe to drive now? I didn't really do any bleeding or anything...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Just a few pics of the old pump and the shrapnel it left behind:







I'd say it was definitely ready to be replaced. lol
 

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Discussion Starter #18
You have an air pocket. Follow the bleeding tips I posted with the service info.
I most certainly will. I just figured I'd give it a shot in hopes that I wouldn't have to play around more outside in 22 degree weather. lol I'll do the bleeding tasks tomorrow and see what I come up with. Thanks again!
 
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