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I took my truck in for an inspection and an oil change last week and they failed it on the inspection due to 2 broken bolts on the right side exhaust manifold. They wanted $520 to fix it so I told them to just put a rejection sticker on it for now. I took it it to another shop for an estimate and they ended up inspecting it saying it was not leaking but did have broken bolts that could be fixed at a later time. So now I have a good inspection and am considering replacing the manifold/bolts myself. I found good videos on YouTube that make it look pretty straight forward but in having a hard time finding the right hardware kit. For some reason all the ones I find online say they don't fit my 13 ram.... I also would like to use an after market brand manifold to hopefully prevent this from happening again since it appears to be a common issue. Could someone give me a part number for the passenger side manifold (after market) and the bolts? Maybe a link? I'm assuming the bolt kits I've found will fit since they say for 2011 and some say 2014 rams but I'd like to be sure before I buy.

Thank you!
 

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The bolts that break are usually the bolts that hold on the heat shields

All of the bolts on that side have to be replaced with New ones

Some people are saying that they were going to try aluminum shorty headers

The heads i believe are made of aluminum, so that would make sense
 
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Will the shorty headers bolt right on in place of the stock manifold? Also, do they come with the bolts needed? Where is the best place to buy them?
 

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Bbk shorty headers fit, sound good, bolt to your down pipe "y pipe" and have all the hardware. Super cheap and easy enough to do yourself.
 

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Bbk shorty headers fit, sound good, bolt to your down pipe "y pipe" and have all the hardware. Super cheap and easy enough to do yourself.

Have you run into any issues with heat?


How bad was getting the driver side to fit with the dipstick tube?
 

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Please if anyone has switched to BBK shorty's or whatever other brand let us know your results. I replaced my passenger side bolts last summer about 20K miles ago. Now i can tell i have at least 2 broken bolts on the passenger side and 1 or 2 broken bolts on the driver side.
Also after reading this forum i went and looked at the BBK's and saw some people had issues with pin holes in welds and others had the pipes cracking...:doh:
 

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most shorty headers will bolt right into the heads as well as the y pipe. It sounds like using Remflex gaskets along with whatever bolts the headers come with seems to be a good fix for the broken bolt issue. Replacing the manifolds with other manifolds won't fix the issue of the bolts breaking. I'm thinking of going with ARP Header Bolts and Remflex gaskets because I don't want to have to deal with broken bolts. It looks like if you take off your wheel well liner it's a pretty easy job to get to most of the bolts based on what i've seen. I have not done the job, but it's getting close to the top of my list.
 

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I recently did the passenger side on mine. 2-broken bolts, both the back. Parts was ~$120 (new bolts, gasket and Dorman manifold). I have a small leak on the driver's side now, but I'm waiting to see if the passenger side holds up as I might go with shorty headers instead and be done with this.
 

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Have you run into any issues with heat?


How bad was getting the driver side to fit with the dipstick tube?
No problems with heat yet.
I have to replace one of the gaskets as it blew a piece right out (Hemi power lol).
The dip stick is a major pain in the ass... its still not 100% right. Mine is 4x4 and to do it right you need to remove one engine mount as they buried the dipstick retaining bolt behind it without any clearance to back the bolt out.
Most people just cut that bottom bracket (as i did) but its not a great fit.

Other than that the headers are great, I would still do it cause having a dip stick issue is much better than a broken manifold stud
 

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I had studs broken on both sides so I went wit the BBK shorty's to hopefully not do it again.
Had a local shop do the install, they had to remove the starter as well to get the one header to line up.

So far i'm happy (only been 1 day), my tick is gone, however my exhaust is a lot quieter now (Muffler delete) than it was before with stock manifolds. Power difference isnt very noticeable, but i did it more to never hae to do studs again. (fingers crossed).
 

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Yeah you aren't going to feel much for gains besides maybe a little fuel economy with the factory PCM programming and any aftermarket headers. Once you raise the rev limiter and add timing it's a completely different breathing animal, then getting rid of the soft TCM shift map tuning is the icing on the cake.
 

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Yeah I'm considering getting a tuner just for the added oomph. On a stock motor what can the limiter be pushed to? But once I get a tuner, then I'll have to get gears/lsd, might as well get an upped Stahl converter. Cams, forced induction...then a divorce...lol
 

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Once the intake and exhaust are opened up, the Gen 3 (5.7) OEM heads/cam will support and pull hard all the way to 61-6200 shift.

The engine off the line makes peak horsepower just above the PCM program limiter, I guess they didn't want 5500lb trucks running away from their own "muscle" cars which don't have the active intake.
 

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My passenger side repair with the Dorman bolts, gasket, and manifold are still holding up after ~10K miles. The driver's side is pretty bad now (91K miles). I'll just do the same stock replacement on that side as well.
 

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I took my truck in for an inspection and an oil change last week and they failed it on the inspection due to 2 broken bolts on the right side exhaust manifold. They wanted $520 to fix it so I told them to just put a rejection sticker on it for now. I took it it to another shop for an estimate and they ended up inspecting it saying it was not leaking but did have broken bolts that could be fixed at a later time. So now I have a good inspection and am considering replacing the manifold/bolts myself. I found good videos on YouTube that make it look pretty straight forward but in having a hard time finding the right hardware kit. For some reason all the ones I find online say they don't fit my 13 ram.... I also would like to use an after market brand manifold to hopefully prevent this from happening again since it appears to be a common issue. Could someone give me a part number for the passenger side manifold (after market) and the bolts? Maybe a link? I'm assuming the bolt kits I've found will fit since they say for 2011 and some say 2014 rams but I'd like to be sure before I buy.

Thank you!
I need to figure something out as well, I have ‘09 - 162k and dealership just did safety recall repair, said I have an exhaust leak, broken bolts on the manifold. $620 to fix. So I’m looking around to get it fixed for less. I am a woman. I have replaced brakes on front - maybe I should check out YouTube video of this fix as well.
 

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I need to figure something out as well, I have ‘09 - 162k and dealership just did safety recall repair, said I have an exhaust leak, broken bolts on the manifold. $620 to fix. So I’m looking around to get it fixed for less. I am a woman. I have replaced brakes on front - maybe I should check out YouTube video of this fix as well.
$620 sounds like a fair price honestly. The wildcard of the repair is how long it takes to remove the broken bolts inside the head.
 

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Thank you for the insight! Must be in a hard spot.
I just repaired or attempted to repair the driver's side. To get everything removed took a bit over an hour. I had three broken bolts. Two were flat to the surface at the head and one had enough hanging out to get vice grips on and I could easily remove it. The other two I wasn't able to remove. These were located at the top front near the AC lines and the very rear lower. I went ahead and put everything back together with a new manifold, gasket, bolts, and left the two broken bolts in the head. It's fixed for now, but probably won't last more than a year until the manifold wraps again. I believe the head will have to be removed to get the bolts out.

My thoughts now are, this is a very painful repair to do on yourself for the first time. I won't do or attempt it again after successfully doing the passenger side and sort-term repairing the driver's side. Once you begin hearing ticking exhaust sound, plan to do the repair as soon as you can. The longer you wait the more bolts will break and it makes the repair much more difficult and expensive. I put mine off on both sides until it was quite severe. If you're going to keep your truck long term, I would invest in the shorty or long tube headers.
 
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