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My 2012 had bolts and manifolds replaced under warranty three times. Warranty expired and I spent $2200 CDN to have felpro gaskets and JBA shorties installed. Last round had two bolts on each side broken. Picked up just over 1 mpg, hand calculated, and it tows better. No heat issues and haven’t had a broken bolt in almost two years, where they were every year previously.
 

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Thank you for the insight! My son said he did not want to tackle that job. I have a new quote of $520 so I will take it one more place and get a quote. Thanks guys, headlight replacement was a big enough pain.
 

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I had the same issue. I had my son, which only had ag class welding, weld a nut to the piece of the bolt left in the block. Then it came right out. The block is aluminum so there is really no chance of welding the bolt to the block. He did have to build up the bolt with the weld first then just welded the nut right to it. There are youtube videos on how to do it.




I just repaired or attempted to repair the driver's side. To get everything removed took a bit over an hour. I had three broken bolts. Two were flat to the surface at the head and one had enough hanging out to get vice grips on and I could easily remove it. The other two I wasn't able to remove. These were located at the top front near the AC lines and the very rear lower. I went ahead and put everything back together with a new manifold, gasket, bolts, and left the two broken bolts in the head. It's fixed for now, but probably won't last more than a year until the manifold wraps again. I believe the head will have to be removed to get the bolts out.

My thoughts now are, this is a very painful repair to do on yourself for the first time. I won't do or attempt it again after successfully doing the passenger side and sort-term repairing the driver's side. Once you begin hearing ticking exhaust sound, plan to do the repair as soon as you can. The longer you wait the more bolts will break and it makes the repair much more difficult and expensive. I put mine off on both sides until it was quite severe. If you're going to keep your truck long term, I would invest in the shorty or long tube headers.
 

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I had studs broken on both sides so I went wit the BBK shorty's to hopefully not do it again.
Had a local shop do the install, they had to remove the starter as well to get the one header to line up.

So far i'm happy (only been 1 day), my tick is gone, however my exhaust is a lot quieter now (Muffler delete) than it was before with stock manifolds. Power difference isnt very noticeable, but i did it more to never hae to do studs again. (fingers crossed).
Did installing the Shortys solve your studs breaking? My 2014 ram is going back to the shop for the 5th time, I need to do something different.
 

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'09 2500 with 42K mi... Here's what I learned: both manifolds are warped at least 1/8th inch. That's a lot. This thing is up on horses with all the wheels off, inner fenders out, front axles out (they both need universals for a second time - I'm in New England), calipers resting on top of axle housings, starter out, dipstick out (that's a job, see below), passenger side heater tubing pushed up out of the way... disconnect and remove whatever you can to make it possible to reach in around the shock towers and motor mounts. Chrysler recommends removing the motor mounts and jacking up the motor. !!! I didn't do that. THEN you're ready for the hardest job you'll ever do (in my opinion). This thing is terrible to work on because the motor's pushed back under the dashboard and between the frame rails to allow us to have that sloped hood and wind screen. I recommend watching this guy's video. He's good but some of his advice did not work for me.
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First, the dipstick: I had no problem getting to the two bracket bolts. One on the manifold and one low down on the block. My problem was that despite soaking the tube entrance into the block, moving it all around with two hands from underneath, that sucker would not come out of the block. The reason is that it's rusted in place. You can rock it around all you want, rotate it while pushing up... it does NOT move. I finally put my air chisel on the lower bracket and gently vibrated it out. Gently! This is tricky. I use a dulled down chisel, nothing sharp, rest it against the spot welded lower bracket while holding the tube steady with my other hand and with just a little vibration from the gun, it'll come out. It is rusty in there.

Then the heat shields: my passenger side was partly rusted off. I soaked everything with Blaster. Do not count on it doing much ...but I did it anyway... for about a week while I was disassembling the front end. The nuts snap off anyway. Get them out and you can sort of see your job. I used a lot of 6 point tools, a torch, an air chisel and an inductive heat gun by Venom called a Mini Inductor. This looks like a soldiering gun but it has a heating coil sticking out its nose. You form the coil to fit the bolt head, rest the coil on it and pull the trigger. It heats the heck out of the bolt. Then you put a six point socket on it with a breaker bar and rock it back and forth gently... till your arms wear out. Then you do that again. Then you get your air chisel against the bolt collar and vibrate the heck out of it... and after an hour of heating, vibrating and rocking that sucker, you'll hear it crack loose in the block and you're on your way. My pals at Midas just stick a small cutting torch in there and lop off all the bolt head as quick as possible and get that manifold out of there. Then they MIG weld nuts on the remaining shanks and rock them out.

This is Chapter One. Stay tuned for Chapter Two coming next.
 

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Chapter Two: I had no luck with a torch. My cutting torch is too big and too hot to get into these tight spaces. I also had no luck heating the bolt heads red hot and cranking on them like the guy in the video at South Main Auto Repair LLC. I worked all of them with the induction gun, air chisel vibration and a 10 or 13mm 6pt socket. Back and forth until your arm wears out. Heat, chisel, rock it back and forth... eventually they will crack - you can feel it - use the twisting motion of the bolt head to break the rust loose in the manifold and eventually cracking the threads loose in the head. It will work with great patience. As the video shows you, it's possible to weld nuts with a MIG on to studs. That's easy. What's more difficult is to weld nuts on to the bolts broken off flush in the head but it's possible. First, build up some weld directly on the steel in the head. It won't stick to the aluminum head material. Then use that built up weld to center the nut with pliers. Stick the MIG right over the nut opening and pull the trigger. It will weld the nut to the built up weld on the bolt in the head. This also heats the bolt in the head. Start rocking on it and it will come out. Avoid drilling! Spend your time patiently rocking the bolts back and forth. It's worth the time and trouble. Some of those bolts are located in impossible positions; I can't imagine drilling at all let alone dead nuts through a piece of steel in aluminum.
 

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Ram 1500 5.7L, 4x4 CC, Sh.B, 3.55G, Laramie(level5) 105K, K&N Intake, 90mm TB, not enough character
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It took me about four hours to put my Shorty headers on both times, LOL.

The reason for this in my advice is, Spent a good $25 on some Mopar gaskets and buy some better/stronger locking threading bolts. I’ve heard some go with stainless steel but I wouldn’t recommend it as it’s a little Soft for header fastening. What they give you with the headers are absolute trash. Also it doesn’t hurt to use ultra copper silicone RVT on the gaskets to complete the sale. Heads shouldn’t get hot enough to crisp the silicone because it is cooled,

Everybody talks shit about the BBK shorties but they’re unmatched for price versus performance ratio. Can you look at the factory headers you will laugh. Then you will laugh again at the Y pipe and some more of the rest of the exhaust in the muffler. Just those things right there probably give your truck 25 hp on a good day

Good luck buddy! You got questions let me know
 
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