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Just wanted to let everyone know that replacing the exhaust bolts no matter what type you use will not cure the exhaust tick. You HAVE to replace the right side exhaust manifold along with all the bolts or upgrade to headers. The right side manifold is warped at # 8 exhaust port. As soon as you start hearing the tick, replace it immediately and maybe you will get away with just pulling out one broken stud with vice grips. If it goes on too long other bolts will brake flush with the head and then you have to weld a nut to the stud to get them out. I have replaced many of these in my shop and this is what I have experienced. Please look at the attached picture and notice gap under cyl # 8
130971
 

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Welcome to Ramforumz! Glad to have you here. You posted this in an ARCHIVE section, not too many member would see it here. I am going to move your post to a better area of the forum, LD RAM - General Discussion. Thanks for your information. Enjoy the forum!
 

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Dealers on this side of the ocean usually give you a different kind of manifold... Replacing the bolts is kind of pointless because it will happen again.
 

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I just replaced both the bolts on cylinder 8. I will be upgrading to headers soon because that was a pain drill those bolts out
130981
 

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I just replaced both the bolts on cylinder 8. I will be upgrading to headers soon because that was a pain drill those bolts out View attachment 130981
It won’t be long before they break again. Before I realized the warped manifold was the issue, I did one truck with new bolts and they only lasted about 7000 miles. Dorman makes a aftermarket manifold for about $75 at Discount Auto Parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Agree, that’s my next step when I have more funds. This fix took less than an hour, so good for now.
 

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Just wanted to let everyone know that replacing the exhaust bolts no matter what type you use will not cure the exhaust tick. You HAVE to replace the right side exhaust manifold along with all the bolts or upgrade to headers. The right side manifold is warped at # 8 exhaust port. As soon as you start hearing the tick, replace it immediately and maybe you will get away with just pulling out one broken stud with vice grips. If it goes on too long other bolts will brake flush with the head and then you have to weld a nut to the stud to get them out. I have replaced many of these in my shop and this is what I have experienced. Please look at the attached picture and notice gap under cyl # 8 View attachment 130971
My 2013 had this issue at around 90,000 miles. My dealer could not remove the manifold bolts so they replaced the head as well as the manifold. Bonus was that the head came with 8 new spark plugs already installed so all I had to do was buy 8 more for the other side. RAM covered the cost of the repair except the 8 plugs.
 

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Anyone know if exhaust manifold warping affects all HEMIs all years? Mine us 2017 6.4L.
Is it worth it to get ahead of it instead of waiting for it to fail?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
My 2013 had this issue at around 90,000 miles. My dealer could not remove the manifold bolts so they replaced the head as well as the manifold. Bonus was that the head came with 8 new spark plugs already installed so all I had to do was buy 8 more for the other side. RAM covered the cost of the repair except the 8 plugs.
Anyone know if exhaust manifold warping affects all HEMIs all years? Mine us 2017 6.4L.
Is it worth it to get ahead of it instead of waiting for it to fail?
Most of them do, but I would wait until you have the first sign of a leak, it may be at 60k or more. Still a pretty easy job.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
My 2013 had this issue at around 90,000 miles. My dealer could not remove the manifold bolts so they replaced the head as well as the manifold. Bonus was that the head came with 8 new spark plugs already installed so all I had to do was buy 8 more for the other side. RAM covered the cost of the repair except the 8 plugs.
Can’t believe they replaced the head for the manifold issue. There’s always a way to extract the bolts, then again it’s a dealership. If it was a warranty repair, they did that to make some extra $$ or didn’t have enough brains to remove broken stud.
 

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I'm not sure if this works on the Hemi exhaust, but what we used to do on the big block GM and Ford 460 engines at work (we had a lot of different fleet vehicles from pickups to bucket trucks to dump trucks) which were known to break the exhaust manifold bolts on the last two cylinders because of the weight from supporting the exhaust and the twisting of the engine when accelerating. We used to take off the manifold and use high temp silicone sealer that was for extreme high temps as a gasket instead of metal gasket or on Ford which didn't use a gasket as a gasket so you didn't have to worry about a slight warp in the manifold. Permatex Ultra Copper. I haven't tried it on my Hemi but will as soon as I have an issue with the exhaust manifold.
131022
 

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I'm not sure if this works on the Hemi exhaust, but what we used to do on the big block GM and Ford 460 engines at work (we had a lot of different fleet vehicles from pickups to bucket trucks to dump trucks) which were known to break the exhaust manifold bolts on the last two cylinders because of the weight from supporting the exhaust and the twisting of the engine when accelerating. We used to take off the manifold and use high temp silicone sealer that was for extreme high temps as a gasket instead of metal gasket or on Ford which didn't use a gasket as a gasket so you didn't have to worry about a slight warp in the manifold. Permatex Ultra Copper. I haven't tried it on my Hemi but will as soon as I have an issue with the exhaust manifold. View attachment 131022
The only problem with that is because the casting on the manifold is so week on # 8 cylinder that after warping it expands and contracts very easily with heat and cold. If you do that the bolts will break again after a very short time. If you’re going to pull it apart that far to put sealer in there you might as well just get a new manifold. I got a brand new manifold, gasket and heat shield from advance auto parts for $58. That was after a 25% discount code that you can find online and they will ship it right to your door free. It’s a Dorman aftermarket which is actually better than the factory manifold. You can get the aftermarket bolts from Dorman on Amazon for about $25. So for under $100 you have a permanent fix.
 

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Just wanted to let everyone know that replacing the exhaust bolts no matter what type you use will not cure the exhaust tick. You HAVE to replace the right side exhaust manifold along with all the bolts or upgrade to headers. The right side manifold is warped at # 8 exhaust port. As soon as you start hearing the tick, replace it immediately and maybe you will get away with just pulling out one broken stud with vice grips. If it goes on too long other bolts will brake flush with the head and then you have to weld a nut to the stud to get them out. I have replaced many of these in my shop and this is what I have experienced. Please look at the attached picture and notice gap under cyl # 8 View attachment 130971
 

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Most of them do, but I would wait until you have the first sign of a leak, it may be at 60k or more. Still a pretty easy job.
My 2014 Hemi leaks bad. Looking at headers instead of replacing junk with junk. Any recommendations on headers for a 2014??
 

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I would go with JBA, they seem to have less fit issues. there are like three good ones and then the long list of "I had a hard time getting them to go on" cheap versions. ;<)
 

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FYI, I just looked up the JBA shorty bolt-on replacement headers on Summit, the reviews are a bit varying. Some suggest that the JBA QC is bad about finding incomplete welds on headers and they leak. Also suggest to use OEM gaskets because the JBA gaskets are no good.
 
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