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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
High level overview, lifter failed so I tore it down did new lifters new cam all new gaskets all replaced. It’s a 2011 1500 with the hemi. She has a tick going on again I don’t know what the hell I missed or what’s ticking everything is new but that’s for another thread. The truck started overheating two days after it was put back together. Replaced water pump, replaced stat, replaced rad cap, radiator pressure tested fine flows fine and holds pressure after driving. There isn’t one single drip anywhere under the truck but it goes through 1-2 quarts after an hour of driving. Where the hell is it going? Heater core fine, I don’t see any blowing out of the exhaust just condensate when it’s cold outside. I can’t for the life of me find where it’s going. Could the new head gasket be bad ? She seeped a little the first day at the corner of the passenger head but after a few hot cold cycles stopped. Each morning I need to pop the cap, add 1-2 quarts warm it up stat opens add some more to it cause I lose heat for a little bit then comes back and stays on, pop cap on when all filled up and drive…she maintains temp 185/195 no problems. Till I park it and come out the next morning if I just start it and drive off it’s overheating cause it’s low on coolant from the last drive I’m loosing my mind here what am I missing or can I go check. I’m 41 worked on trucks cars since 16 I’m no newb but shit this one has me stumped
 

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Check your oil. You will be able to tell right off the batt if that’s not it follow your hoses to your heater core & look for leaks if your using the dex cool or whatever its called you should be able to see the area it’s leaking at since it’s oily and stays wet looking.
 

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2014 345ci 8hp70 44-44 3.92 Truetrac NX Express Comp Greene Racing
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Sounds like the head gaskets were flipped, they have specific driver/passenger sides for the block.

If you pull the oil drain plug for a second, water/coolant may be at the bottom of the pan.

Does the coolant reservoir/radiator cap have oil on top?

edit-you didn’t reuse the TTY head bolts right?
 

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well here is another thought, start it let warmup then go to the rear end and smell your exhaust you should beable to smell if there is coolant getting into the exhaust system. hope this helps and good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Sounds like the head gaskets were flipped, they have specific driver/passenger sides for the block.

If you pull the oil drain plug for a second, water/coolant may be at the bottom of the pan.

Does the coolant reservoir/radiator cap have oil on top?

edit-you didn’t reuse the TTY head bolts right?
Well shit……see that I diddnt know. I swear I had them lined up right but now I’m definitely second guessing it. Means I need to tear her down again….dammit
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Sounds like the head gaskets were flipped, they have specific driver/passenger sides for the block.

If you pull the oil drain plug for a second, water/coolant may be at the bottom of the pan.

Does the coolant reservoir/radiator cap have oil on top?

edit-you didn’t reuse the TTY head bolts right?
Is there a way to know if I flipped them? Water in the oil?
 

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2014 345ci 8hp70 44-44 3.92 Truetrac NX Express Comp Greene Racing
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They are etched Left or right when facing up, at least my Felpro head gaskets were.

Pulling heads back off isn’t that difficult/time consuming compared to pulling the timing cover, keep the headers/manifold attached.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
They are etched Left or right when facing up, at least my Felpro head gaskets were.

Pulling heads back off isn’t that difficult/time consuming compared to pulling the timing cover, keep the headers/manifold attached. Just don’t reuse TTY bolts.
Yes. Always new bolts. Even though they are brand new dammit lol. Looks like I’m ordering new head gaskets and bolts and tearing the heads back off it’s possible they are in wrong. Any advice on getting the MOPAR ones or say felpro or mahle?
 

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2014 345ci 8hp70 44-44 3.92 Truetrac NX Express Comp Greene Racing
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Haven’t heard of any issues within those quality gasket options on a mild power build, only upgrading to head stud clamping force instead of TTY bolts making big compression/boost.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Haven’t heard of any issues within those quality gasket options on a mild power build, only upgrading to head stud clamping force instead of TTY bolts making big compression/boost.
It’s just a stock hemi in a 2011 ram.
 

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So you found water in the oil? I'm betting you did (that much water has to be going someplace)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So you found water in the oil? I'm betting you did (that much water has to be going someplace)
Well. I haven’t drained it yet I pulled the dip stick out and it looked normal to me but then again I won’t k one for sure till I drain it. I’m getting new head gaskets tomorrow and I’ll pull the heads off to take a look. I’ll report back I should have it done by Monday I hope lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Anyone know off hand if the timing cover has to come back off or can just pull the intake disconnect the exhaust and pull the heads (in so many words. I already replaced the lifters so I know the rest involved but pulling all that crap back out again would suck lol
 

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If it was overheated the head may be warped.

Just the intake needs to come off along with any plugs/injectors/coils associated with the valve cover. Ground straps on the back of both heads. Pull the headers out assembled, disconnect primary o2s at harness mounts and leave them hang.
 

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I have had coolant push back Into the overflow container and lose it through the overflow due to the radiator cap spring not holding the pressure. Before pulling heads, you might try a higher pressure radiator cap and watch where the overflow mark is.
 
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