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Discussion Starter #1
got a little truck overview done when i got my brakes fixed. found out i had a high idle(1100 RPM, they said it should be 600ish) and 1st and 2nd gear were shifting funny, or something like that.

they did something to the tranny to prolong its life a bit, not sure what though, and they installed a new thing( not sure what thats called either) to correct the RPM.

fixed it for a few days, then it started idling at 1100 again.
took it in they replaced that part, hoping it would be a faulty part, free of charge IF it was in fact that part

it worked, for a few days, then shot back up to 1100 again,

they figured it might be a computer issue, so we got the computer replaced
worked for days, then shot back up to 1100...

so alright, what the heck is going on with my truck.. after almost 2k dumped into this truck in the last 2 weeks its still not fixed.
 

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sounds like who ever is attempting to fix the issue
is throwing parts at it, hoping to fix it
 

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Discussion Starter #3
they're apparently pretty good. We've heard good reviews about them form more than one person. But at this point, i wouldn't disagree.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Increased idle can be due to a vacuum leak. In light of the Magnum's intake plenum gasket, I'd start there.
alright.. where is the vacuum, and where is this gasket..
haha

if its only a gasket problem I'm about to come unglued on this shop.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
here's some other information. i dont know if this is a side effect of the problem. Or if somehow this is the problem.

ive noticed when im driving through my neighborhood at about 20 mph my truck decides it wants to act like its on cruise and pull itself at about 1100 RPM and 20-25 mph by itself. If i hit the brake to about 10 mph to go around a curve, it will slowly pick back up to 20-25mph. It wont speed back up fasssttt, but a noticeable speed for me not hitting the gas at all.

and I'm talking like it will drive itself until it runs out of gas like this. not like its simply coasting down a hill (theres not even a hill, its all flat either way)

to me it just sounds like because its idling at 1100 rpm, the rpms are just taking the car that fast and should be solved when the RPMs get corrected. Possibly? haha

Thanks
 

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All the little black hoses are vacuum lines. The intake plenum gasket is in the intake manifold. The manifold is a two-piece design (a total piece of crap design). There's a plenum plate that bolts to the bottom and that's where the leak happens. A quick and dirty way to check it is to get up on the engine with a flashlight. Open the throttle and look down into the intake. Shine the light in there and look at the intake floor. Is it shiney (should be) or is it oily/cruddy? If it looks dirty, that's an indication that the gasket is bad and the engine is sucking in crankcase vapors. This upsets the airflow to the cylinders and results in a loss of vacuum. This will cause oil consumption and misfires, rattles from detonation due to a run-lean condition. The worse it leaks, the worse the symptoms get.
 

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^ how do i fix it.

That's kind of a loaded question. The first response to that is are you mechanically inclined? do you have a decent set of tools? third - do you really want to learn how to do the maintainence?

If the answer to all 3 is yes. Then - not to sound like a turd, but you should really get a repair manual or do some reading on how the eingine systems work. Everyone has to start from somewhere too, so no worries. I remember when I had to ask for help with getting the air filter cover off my first car.

Vaccuum leaks and high idle symptoms sometimes can be quite the beast to diagnose. Sometimes they can come and go and it feels like chasing monkeys hopped up on meth around your truck. It can be anything from a bad MAF to a vaccum leak caused by bad hoses and/or gaskets, bad IAC, bad TPS. I had a bad TPS once that messed up idle AND shifting somehow.

Yes, you cold post question after question and lots of people here would be happy to help you, but the time involved with waiting and going back and forth might drive you insane, not to mention you'd just be throwing parts at it yourself and hoping something sticks.

Having a manual handy and doing a bit of detective work on your end will help us help you make a better diagnosis. Plus, when someone suggests R&R of a part or a system, you'll have a reference to work from.

Now to the meat of the question. If it were me looking at it. first I would check the obvious sources of vaccuum leaks. the hoses, and the gaskets. Since it's a 2001, I'd lean toward the intake gasket as a likely source. next likely a hose, then I'd move onto sensors. Look for cracks, weak spots, soot deposits, kinks in lines. For example: A spray bottle with water can help tons diagnosing a bad gasket. spray the gasket contact area with a mist of water, if the idle suddenly drops. there's your leak. IF nothing happens, move to another area and repeat.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Alright. I'm mechanically inclined enough to take apart the intake and some other stuff. But it really enough to tear apart my engine. Haha. What gasket is it? The gasket by the intake?
 

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Getting to the plenum gasket isn't exactly tough. just time consuming, and requires a little planing to remember where all the frigging clips and bolts go. Gotta love the "where'd I get this extra bolt" when you think you're finished.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
so what would you all recommend? haha.

how to get to the gasket,
and how to clean the inside.(if necessary, its pretty gross looking.)
 

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I have heard that another way to check for vacuum leaks is to use starting fluid and spray it around while the engine is running. If the engine RPM's increase while doing this you have found your leak. I would not do it while the engine is hot but right after starting it.
 

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Get the Hughes plate with felpro gaskets! Mine has been on about 10 years without an issue.

http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/products.php?partid=27091



Brakecleen!
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

This .I did a Hugh's kit and it definitely resolves the cause of the manifold leak. The whole cause is an engineering disaster. You never put a gasket between 2 different metals (steel and aluminum) and expect it to stay in place due to different expansion and contraction rates when heated and cooled.
 
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