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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Installed Bilstein 5100, all four corners. Also replaced OEM rear springs with TUfTruck 1211. Ride is much firmer, without being harsh. Feels more "truck" like, if that makes sense. Before,the ride reminded of an old 1970's family wagon cruiser. Too much bounce, not planted on the roadway.

OEM shocks and springs, with A.R.E. Topper, the Rear wheel well lip was at 38.75 inches. Front was at 37.0 inches.





After Bilsteins and new rear springs.




Now, rear wheel well lip is at 39.5 inches. Increase of about 3/4 inches. Which is rather odd since the TufTruck 1211 springs are actually about a 1/2 inch shorter than OEM springs. Tuf Truck 1211 springs are rated for 50% more load (about 450lbs, according to tuftruck guy I called)

I did notice that when adding 550lbs of weight to rear of the truck, there is still some sag, as the weight is added, but not nearly like the OEM springs.

I digress...

Rear wheel well lip is 39.5 inches, Front Wheel Well lip is 38.5 to 38.75, wife and I do not agree on what the tape showed.

Either way, setting the bilsteins to 2.1 gave me anywhere from 1.5 - 1.75 inches of front end lift. I think it was 1.75 inches. Still not the full 2.1 inches but I am happy with the look and feel of the truck, as is.
Also, am very glad I went with the 2.1 vs the 2.8 setting , as I do like a little bit of extra height, on the rear, since I do pull a boat.


Thing that surprised me the most was just how lightweight the OEM Upper Control Arms were compared to the new Mevotech UCA's. The Mevotechs were much heavier. Felt and looked much more substantial.

Seriously, when I picked up the OEM UCA's, off the floor, I was like "You got to be kidding me?". My Son-in-law, a mechanic who did the install, said, "Yeah, they surprised me too."

I toyed with the idea of setting the front bilsteins to 2.8 and adding a 1" inch rear spacer, to maintain some rake, for when under a load. But, in the end, decided that the slight shudder some experience, in 4x4 mode, with the 2.8 setting, was simply not worth it, to me.

I cannot recommend the Tuftruck 1211 rear springs, enough. They are slightly shorter than OEM, but actually lifted my truck , about 3/4 an inch.

I am really enjoying the firmer ride this combination is giving me.

Even my wife noted that the truck did not set her "off", like it did before.(wife is disabled and cannot stand to ride in any vehicle very long, without long "time outs"). Previously a ride in the OEM setup would have her aching in 20-25 miles, but not now.

Hope this helps, someone else, down the road.
 

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Looks great! Just had mind done last week. I couldn't be more happy with the outcome. Too bad the trucks don't come this way from the factory.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
it looks good, I was thinking about getting those rear springs, but I was worried it would ruin the ride.

The Ride has definitely changed. IT is much more :Firm: Not like my 1999 Dodge 2500 4X4 was either. That truck was tight, firm and all that but had more more body roll than this truck does, now.


My wife is disabled & cannot ride in cars for very long, without it setting her "off". She could do about 30 miles, in my truck, before. We just did 40 miles the other day and she didn't even notice it.

I cannot say, with any confidence, if it was the springs or the shocks, since I did them both at the same time.

I know my wife much prefers the Ride now, to the OEM Ride. She notices these things much more so than I.

I just noticed the ride is firmer and am happy I can hook up the boat, without the truck squatting like a toy puddle taking a whiz.
 

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Glad the Tuftrucks worked out for you with the lift. I purchased the SuperSprings SSC-50s because the specs stated they would give me 3/4" of lift and they didn't give me any. It's nice having the HD springs though for when I throw the boat behind the truck.
 

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Looks good. I went with the Tuftruck 1223's since my truck constantly carries a load. The springs are a little shorter than the stock ones when uninstalled, but with out a load the truck would sit higher with the 1223's. If I didn't always have a load I would have gone with the 1223v's myself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Looks good. I went with the Tuftruck 1223's since my truck constantly carries a load. The springs are a little shorter than the stock ones when uninstalled, but with out a load the truck would sit higher with the 1223's. If I didn't always have a load I would have gone with the 1223v's myself.
I really thought I was going to get those 1223V myself.
Called Tuftruck, to make sure of my selection.
After talking with me, he said get to the 1211.
Since I like a 2500 ride and LOVE the Spring compression rates, he didn't think I would like retaining that OEM 1500 type ride with the 1223V's.
Also, he said the 1223V's, while having same load capacity as teh 1211 (50% greater than OEM or 900lbs more) were VARIABLE< meaning they drop more, at lighter loads than the 1211 does.

Reason they make the different models of springs different strokes and all that. I know I am quite happy with the ride Have to really load it up though
 

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Too bad FCA didn't put these in the trucks stock. I've never had a truck that sagged this easy.
 

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I have been running the tuftrucks 1223 on my truck since 2011. Let me tell you these springs are the best. I tried doing the airbags and other suspension helping mods that did nothing for me. I is my truck to pull a 20'x8.5' cargo trailer 4500lb dry and max of 10000lb so much better the OEM. I still get some rear end sage with the 1223 but nothing like the OEM springs.

Love them!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I have been running the tuftrucks 1223 on my truck since 2011. Let me tell you these springs are the best. I tried doing the airbags and other suspension helping mods that did nothing for me. I is my truck to pull a 20'x8.5' cargo trailer 4500lb dry and max of 10000lb so much better the OEM. I still get some rear end sage with the 1223 but nothing like the OEM springs.

Love them!!!
1223's? Not the 1223V 'Variable' rate springs?
Do you run empty very much or always loaded?

I was pretty much decided on the 1223V's, myself, but thought I would call TufTruck tell them my concerns and preferences, just to make sure I was getting teh right springs.

TufTruck Guy said, Nope, you want the 1211's.
But, I wanted minimal sag, under all weight loads did not want to lift the rear, at all, and actually like the 3/4 ton truck ride.
 

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Before I jump in her, Very nice OP. It looks level to me! My 2009 Ram is due for some shocks. After reading numerous posts about the Bilsteins I think yhat's the way to go. Do any of you know the difference between the Bilstein 5100 series and the Bilstein HD shock. Many sites list both for application. Differences if any other than ride height. Are the rear shocks different also? I'm thinking about lifting the front end to level it also. Has anyone experienced any added rollover during turns in the front end because you are raising the center of gravity. Is it not enough to make any difference. Hate to spend money on something I won't like and have to live with it. The factory shocks rode very nice but I would like a little stiffer shock for when I go offroad during hunting and fishing seasons.

Thanks for any input!
Donnie
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
5100 or 4600 are what I know.

4600 are stock height, non adjustable. Supposedly, they are more a towing or loaded stle shock. I say supposedly acct my buddy has them, I ride in his truck, all the time, and think they are softer than my 5100. HOWEVER< I also put the new springs, when I did my shocks so that may e teh difference.

5100 FRONTS are height adjustable. SUpposedly, they are more an off-road shock.
I now they have an extra inch of travel, and this may all teeh difference between them,

If thinking of EVER lifting teh front, for a level, get teh 5100. safest way to level a truck.
No difference, that I notice, from being at 2.1 setting, Fronts.

You got questions, ask.
SOeone will chime in.
Luck to you
 

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I was doing some research and have decided on the Bilstein 5100's. One question though. I understand the 5100's on the front to lift the front to level it with the rear. The 5100's for the rear are for up to a 1" lift on the rear. The 5100's won't lift the rear, correct? I just want to replace all the shocks but lift the front to make it more level. What would be the diff in installing 4600's on the rear if I'm not going to lift the rear versus matching the front with 5100's. I read where the only diff is the lift capabilities and/or ride height between the 4600's and the 5100's. The ride of both series is supposed to be the same. The diff in price is not worth talking about. I drive mostly highway and haul some heavy stuff once in a great while and do some light offroading during hunting and fishing seasons. I want a little stiffer ride than factory but would like to keep all my fillings intack. LOL!
 

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5100s and 4600s have different damping. You should use the same all around, and no the rear 5100s do not lift the rear. They do allow for up to 1.5" spacers if you choose to add them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
keep them the same. like wearing a tennis shoe and Sandals.

Both feel great but are not the same.

5100 has one extra inch of travel so you can a one inch rear spacer to teh truck.this allows you to set fronts at 2.8and ad teh rear spacer so truck still has 3/4 inch or so of rake.

the way the hood is designed,the truck looks front high, when actually true level.

2.1 is almost always safe, regarding upper control arm ball joints popping butnot always. almostalways. 2.8 setting, again,almost always safe but almostalways does nto meanalways. i picked up a set of mevotechs upper control arms, for insurance, cheap under a $ 100 and i went with 2.,1 setting.

sorry for typhos, laptop and tired.
 

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Thanks Much fellows. You both answered my concerns. I will be going with the 5100's all the way around and using the 2.1 setting on the front. What is the diff between the factory upper arms and the mevotechs. I read about the popping. Are the replacement arms made for this application because I saw no footnotes that pertained to lifting that these arms would stop from happening. I'm sorry I'm just anal. I want to understand what I'm doing before I just slap on some mods just because. There always seems to be an underside to doing mods. I always like to get feedback from people who have done these mods and suffered through the pains of altering factory setups so I don't have to suffer the outcomes. You guys can snap and throw wrenches so I don't have to.
 
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