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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so over the past 2 months i have been reading everything under the sun about the GEN III 5.7 hemis in order to do a proper cam install. I have bearing pullers, spring compressors, new non MDS lifters, MDS delete plugs, gaskets, seals, on and on and on... The only thing i dont have is the experience. often times that is the most important thing.
I plan on removing heads, upgrading springs, installing new cam, and replacing all seal and gaskets i run into.
my plan was to start this on a friday night after work and be up and running sunday sometime. i already have a custom tune ready to go.
The point of this post is to ask people who have done GEN III cam swaps for their advice on what to look for and any tricks that could help the process. i have 172k miles on the truck so i plan to do a gas treatment a few times to help clean any shit out that might be in there.

Please let me know what yall think. Thanks in advance
 

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Personally I would not change the cam bearings. Aside from that just be very careful and go slowly and follow all specs to the letter and be OCD with your surface prep.
 

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^^^Don't screw with those if you don't need to. You're not doing a full on rebuild, just be very gentle when sliding the old cam out and new cam in.
Best advice: document document document. Take pics, write notes, label EVERYTHING. Have PATIENCE, lotsa patience, don't force things, that's how things get broken. Make sure you have all the right tools (torque wrenches, pullers etc) to do the job AND alternative transport for parts/tools runs. Did I mention patience?
Did you get new head bolts? Gen3 and newer hemis are TTY spec. It's cheap insurance against reusing stretched bolts. With your miles I would replace the timing chain (I didn't see one listed) with an OEM 6.1 set. Oil pump wouldn't be a bad idea either. Usually the OEM 6.1 pump is the easy upgrade, but a stock replacement 5.7 pump is fine. Have extra oil on hand, you're GONNA get coolant in your oil pan. Wait til you have it back together to drain the oil and refill. If you can, pull your front inner fender liners, will give you a helluva lot more access. Be very careful with the A/C accessories; you don't wanna bust a line, etc and free all your refrigerant. If you don't have a FSM, download one. I seem to remember there being links on here, if not let me know. I think I actually have the 2008 manual.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hell yeah. Thanks for all the info. I do have new head bolts. I am not messing with cam bearings. I do not have new timing chain or oil pump.

Speaking of oil. Do I change the oil and add the additive before the first start up? So basically it will be 2 oil changes and filters? One oil change after cam install and button up and the second is after 30 min break in with zinc oil?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Also with the ac. My buddy works at a body shop. We were going to drain it then fill when we were done. Looks easier just to take the ac components off
 

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Hell yeah. Thanks for all the info. I do have new head bolts. I am not messing with cam bearings. I do not have new timing chain or oil pump.

Speaking of oil. Do I change the oil and add the additive before the first start up? So basically it will be 2 oil changes and filters? One oil change after cam install and button up and the second is after 30 min break in with zinc oil?
Break in? For what?

Also with the ac. My buddy works at a body shop. We were going to drain it then fill when we were done. Looks easier just to take the ac components off
As long as you are comfortable with someone breaking open the system; I'm an AC&R tech and I don't like cracking open systems if they work well unless I absolutely have to.

I just noticed you're in Parkville, you're like half hour from me lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I thought even with roller cams you're supposed to do a zinc addative when firing up the engine for the first time
 

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Rebuild these everyday keep it clean! You don’t need oil pump or chain they wil be fine! Been with Chrysler 12 years lifters fail always eat camshaft!! Never replaced head bolts never an issue. Any questions or torque specs I’ll send them too you just take your time
 

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I thought even with roller cams you're supposed to do a zinc addative when firing up the engine for the first time
If you have new lifers and cam this is not needed, however it's never bad so I won't say not to (I did). It's not the same as a flat tappet and if you cover the cam in assembly lube properly you will have no issues, you also don't need to "break in the engine" so to speak since you didn't change rings or mains/rod bearings and those are what are sensitive. In comparison to those the cam kinda just drops in and is really not that sensitive in a full roller engine.
 

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Break in? For what?



As long as you are comfortable with someone breaking open the system; I'm an AC&R tech and I don't like cracking open systems if they work well unless I absolutely have to.

I just noticed you're in Parkville, you're like half hour from me lol
Ditto on the opening of ANY refrigerant system, I also heavily dislike opening them and do everything possible to just work around them and if you do open it I would say at minimum plug EVERYTHING right away and replace the accumulator just to make sure the system still works at optimal performance after it's back together.
 

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I thought even with roller cams you're supposed to do a zinc addative when firing up the engine for the first time
If you have new lifers and cam this is not needed, however it's never bad so I won't say not to (I did). It's not the same as a flat tappet and if you cover the cam in assembly lube properly you will have no issues, you also don't need to "break in the engine" so to speak since you didn't change rings or mains/rod bearings and those are what are sensitive. In comparison to those the cam kinda just drops in and is really not that sensitive in a full roller engine.
Ah ok, had a feeling this is what you were referring to. Like he said, not a flat tappet, no cam break ins...you can run and swap cams (as long as it's a roller) til the cows come home. This is how magazines do quick cam comparisons (again, on roller engines only) without breaking stuff. Good assembly lube and you'll be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Awesome. Thanks for all the help yall. Soon as the rest of my exhaust comes in I'll be doing the swap. Now I'm not crazy to think this can be done over a weekend, right?
 

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ZDDP isn't bad, but not needed for a roller cam. You don't really need to replace the lifter when you replace the cam, but I wouldn't replace a cam without putting in new lifters.


GM 5.3 and 6.2 lifters eat cams too; that's not just a Hemi thing
 

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Awesome. Thanks for all the help yall. Soon as the rest of my exhaust comes in I'll be doing the swap. Now I'm not crazy to think this can be done over a weekend, right?
Well yes. It can be done in about 6 hours of you know what you are doing, since it's your first time I would have another vehlice ready in the event you don't get it done on time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
thanks for everyones input. i cant wait to start this project. always wanted to cam my ram but never had the money or the guts lol to do it. Now i have owned my ram for 10 years. i have a little age, money, and determination now.

anything special i should do to the heads? im putting new comp cam springs in and push rods but besides that? whats the best way to clean the sealing surfaces? i watched a video of a guy using a 2" scotch bright disc on a pnumatic grinder and everyone had a field day with him in the comments section.
 

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Well you want to clean the surfaces, not alter their shape.
 

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thanks for everyones input. i cant wait to start this project. always wanted to cam my ram but never had the money or the guts lol to do it. Now i have owned my ram for 10 years. i have a little age, money, and determination now.

anything special i should do to the heads? im putting new comp cam springs in and push rods but besides that? whats the best way to clean the sealing surfaces? i watched a video of a guy using a 2" scotch bright disc on a pnumatic grinder and everyone had a field day with him in the comments section.
Look up "Ford head surface disk" it should bring up a little green disk with bristles that is intended for cleaning those types of surfaces without altering them.

This thing, BE AWARE that while it's harder to screw up with this it's is still possible to fry a head https://www.discountshoptools.com/3...460B9EECCBFCE1387A754990CB813.p3plqscsfapp001
 

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Yeah just keep in mind, while the block deck surface is iron, the heads are aluminum. You can take material off real easy. Speaking of, make sure you have the correct (should be orange HOAT) coolant to go back in it.
 

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Yeah just keep in mind, while the block deck surface is iron, the heads are aluminum. You can take material off real easy. Speaking of, make sure you have the correct (should be orange HOAT) coolant to go back in it.
Zerex G05 for the coolant, since you have alum heads and an iron block it's needed to prevent issues and works far better than the newer OAT stuff since protection is immediately established vs taking some time. The mopar stuff is the same with a different dye, I perfer the mopar stuff simply since I like the color more.
 
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