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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Basically it was stated by some members here on a post that there's a full range signal going to the front door speakers, which apparently is not the case. I took my truck into a highly recommended shop to correct a couple of issues, and this shop actually had an RTA. I told them I was informed (as were many others) that our trucks yield only a full range signal of (20hz-20khz) through the FRONT door speakers. The wires were even stated in the post. The front door speakers from factory are dark green and grey with violet and yellow striping.

Anyway, the tech/installer had an RTA and kindly told me the front door speakers aren't "20 to 20". I asked him what they were and he said, 20hz-1khz. He tested a lot of wires with the RTA and got the wires he needed for the LC6i install. But I wanted to know so I asked if ANY wires were FULL RANGE and he said none of the ones he tested but maybe the "REAR". I actually have to go back to this shop today to finish up a couple of things and I will ask him if it isn't too much trouble would he check the rear speaker wires with the RTA to see if those yield a full range signal. But I figured i'd ask here for anyone who has already run an RTA or can positively confirm if the rear or ANY factory wires yield a full range signal?

I think it would be cool for not only me to know but anyone else who was misinformed to also know...as it would i'm sure greatly help new members of the forum doing audio installs.
 

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Basically it was stated by some members here on a post that there's a full range signal going to the front door speakers, which apparently is not the case. I took my truck into a highly recommended shop to correct a couple of issues, and this shop actually had an RTA. I told them I was informed (as were many others) that our trucks yield only a full range signal of (20hz-20khz) through the FRONT door speakers. The wires were even stated in the post. The front door speakers from factory are dark green and grey with violet and yellow striping.

Anyway, the tech/installer had an RTA and kindly told me the front door speakers aren't "20 to 20". I asked him what they were and he said, 20hz-1khz. He tested a lot of wires with the RTA and got the wires he needed for the LC6i install. But I wanted to know so I asked if ANY wires were FULL RANGE and he said none of the ones he tested but maybe the "REAR". I actually have to go back to this shop today to finish up a couple of things and I will ask him if it isn't too much trouble would he check the rear speaker wires with the RTA to see if those yield a full range signal. But I figured i'd ask here for anyone who has already run an RTA or can positively confirm if the rear or ANY factory wires yield a full range signal?

I think it would be cool for not only me to know but anyone else who was misinformed to also know...as it would i'm sure greatly help new members of the forum doing audio installs.
I didn't even think the doors were fully down to 20, because of the factory sub. I guessed they were filtered somewhere around 80.

For the Lc6i/cleansweep/MS8 you will need front dash, front door, and sub inputs to be summed into a full range.

The rears might be closer to full range, but I have my doubts on the bottom end. The RTA doesn't lie though.
 

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If your talking high end sound never use factory anything allways replace wires not even the vettes have high range in them.Even though they say its a high end system sad to say if its factory it usually is a lower grade
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
@Frank Drebin....

well it appears as though you were dead on, sir. Long story short, for quite some time now i've had issues with the actual input side of what was being summed into my lc6i and some of that had to do with me adamantly telling the initial installer the front door speakers were full range as a couple of reputable members of this forum said so. The initial installer didn't have an RTA so I thought taking the info given to me would help the initial installer. Bad move on my part. The input side was never right and there was some kind of signal issue over the last year but today that FINALLY GOT RESOLVED! I had to take my truck back for a couple of things and told the installer the confusion from day 1 so he said he's gonna get to the bottom of it and find out himself what speaker wires yield what frequencies and that he did.

He busted out the RTA and got to work as I watched. As I already stated, the door speakers are NOT 20-20 full range, but rather, 20hz-1khz. There has also been confusion as to whether the rear speakers are full range..and that too is incorrect. The rear speakers from factory are 50hz-20khz....so close, but no cigar. Now this is the interesting part...the installer figured he'd just sum the rear speakers with my sub channel and get a full range signal but when he put the RTA on the sub wires, there was NO SIGNAL...NOTHING! He then checked the back of my factory amp and there was no sub output...which makes sense since I never had a sub from factory in my R/T. The sub wires are there, just no signal at all for the sub wires. So being there was an issue with sound quality summing my front door and center channels, he summed the rear channel and the front channel which yields a full range signal, and all I can say is it has NEVER SOUNDED SO CLEAR AND POWERFUL.

So you were right Frank. The rear channels don't go below 50hz, therefore you can't use the rear channel by itself as the main input on the LC6i. You still need the additional 30hz for the sub. Hopefully this info helps others who have the same setup with the premium alpine system and did NOT have a factory sub...as again, the factory wiring for the sub produce NO SIGNAL AT ALL. I'm glad this is FINALLY resolved. :smileup:
 

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@Frank Drebin....

well it appears as though you were dead on, sir. Long story short, for quite some time now i've had issues with the actual input side of what was being summed into my lc6i and some of that had to do with me adamantly telling the initial installer the front door speakers were full range as a couple of reputable members of this forum said so. The initial installer didn't have an RTA so I thought taking the info given to me would help the initial installer. Bad move on my part. The input side was never right and there was some kind of signal issue over the last year but today that FINALLY GOT RESOLVED! I had to take my truck back for a couple of things and told the installer the confusion from day 1 so he said he's gonna get to the bottom of it and find out himself what speaker wires yield what frequencies and that he did.

He busted out the RTA and got to work as I watched. As I already stated, the door speakers are NOT 20-20 full range, but rather, 20hz-1khz. There has also been confusion as to whether the rear speakers are full range..and that too is incorrect. The rear speakers from factory are 50hz-20khz....so close, but no cigar. Now this is the interesting part...the installer figured he'd just sum the rear speakers with my sub channel and get a full range signal but when he put the RTA on the sub wires, there was NO SIGNAL...NOTHING! He then checked the back of my factory amp and there was no sub output...which makes sense since I never had a sub from factory in my R/T. The sub wires are there, just no signal at all for the sub wires. So being there was an issue with sound quality summing my front door and center channels, he summed the rear channel and the front channel which yields a full range signal, and all I can say is it has NEVER SOUNDED SO CLEAR AND POWERFUL.

So you were right Frank. The rear channels don't go below 50hz, therefore you can't use the rear channel by itself as the main input on the LC6i. You still need the additional 30hz for the sub. Hopefully this info helps others who have the same setup with the premium alpine system and did NOT have a factory sub...as again, the factory wiring for the sub produce NO SIGNAL AT ALL. I'm glad this is FINALLY resolved. :smileup:

That is great info. We have different trucks, and different systems. The CC with factory sub does not have full 20-20 on the front doors, and I'd be willing to bet it doesn't have 20-1k either. I 'm thinking that the front doors would be 50-1k and rear doors would be 50-20k. I haven't RTA'd but I have tried a LOC of the front doors on a sub amp, and it performed much better off the sub wiring than the front doors which leads me to believe that the doors don't carry all the way down to 20 hz.

Anyways, thanks for sharing.
 

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Arg. I am so tired of trying to get the info to install my subs and amp into my truck. I do not know where to tie in a LOC? I found the Cleansweep from JL and do not know anything on how to hook them up. I have always ran system in older cars where it was simple just run the wires lol. I have a 2012 CC with the 730n alpine speakers.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
@Ghostrider,

I feel your pain man. This forum is a great place for help and there are a lot of great members here. Sometimes, however, there's inaccurate information that is posted and others (like myself) follow it trusting it's correct if a couple of highly rated, respected members say it's so. I don't know where it came about that there was ever a full range signal to any of the speakers independently because there isn't. I stood there and watched this guy with the RTA for a good 40 minutes testing every set of wires, so I can assure you the info i'm posting IS IN FACT, ACCURATE.

To simplify..if the premium alpine system came in a truck that DID come with a factory sub, then simply summing your factory front door speakers, center speaker, and subwoofer will yield a COMPLETE, full range signal (20hz-20khz). However, if your Premium Alpine system did NOT come with a factory sub, (like my 2010 R/T) then the subwoofer wires (via the wiring diagram for our trucks) will be there, but there will be NO SIGNAL COMING FROM THEM so you obviously do NOT want to tap into them as you'd be just as good tapping into thin air.There's also no sub output on the factory amps that did NOT come with a sub, so it makes sense that there's be no signal to the sub wires. So regardless of your setup, there are a couple of different options in getting a full range signal, but there are NO options to tap a single wire or a single pair of wires to get a full range signal as again, there is no full range signal to any one speaker from factory.
 

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This is why I didn't go on the high side and opted for the PAC unit, however it does raise the question of which RCA's to use, fronts or rear? I've tried mine using both to the MS-8 and never noticed a change in sound quality.
 

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Most (if not all) of these premium factory systems for the last 6 or 7 years have used internal crossovers for the channels, resulting in no full frequency signals. Not necessarily a bad thing, but if you want full range (while keeping the HU EQ, etc) summing works great and the Lc6i is a very nice little unit.
 

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great thread! Anyone know the frequency ranges for the 6 speaker UConnect 5.0 system? I just purchased a Audio Control LC2i thinking all signals would be a full 20hz-20khz signal.......doh! Parts show up soon, any help GREATLY appreciated!
 

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Basically it was stated by some members here on a post that there's a full range signal going to the front door speakers, which apparently is not the case. I took my truck into a highly recommended shop to correct a couple of issues, and this shop actually had an RTA. I told them I was informed (as were many others) that our trucks yield only a full range signal of (20hz-20khz) through the FRONT door speakers. The wires were even stated in the post. The front door speakers from factory are dark green and grey with violet and yellow striping.

Anyway, the tech/installer had an RTA and kindly told me the front door speakers aren't "20 to 20". I asked him what they were and he said, 20hz-1khz. He tested a lot of wires with the RTA and got the wires he needed for the LC6i install. But I wanted to know so I asked if ANY wires were FULL RANGE and he said none of the ones he tested but maybe the "REAR". I actually have to go back to this shop today to finish up a couple of things and I will ask him if it isn't too much trouble would he check the rear speaker wires with the RTA to see if those yield a full range signal. But I figured i'd ask here for anyone who has already run an RTA or can positively confirm if the rear or ANY factory wires yield a full range signal?

I think it would be cool for not only me to know but anyone else who was misinformed to also know...as it would i'm sure greatly help new members of the forum doing audio installs.
Did your installer test for full signal coming out of the Head Unit or the output of the amp
 

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@Frank Drebin....

well it appears as though you were dead on, sir. Long story short, for quite some time now i've had issues with the actual input side of what was being summed into my lc6i and some of that had to do with me adamantly telling the initial installer the front door speakers were full range as a couple of reputable members of this forum said so. The initial installer didn't have an RTA so I thought taking the info given to me would help the initial installer. Bad move on my part. The input side was never right and there was some kind of signal issue over the last year but today that FINALLY GOT RESOLVED! I had to take my truck back for a couple of things and told the installer the confusion from day 1 so he said he's gonna get to the bottom of it and find out himself what speaker wires yield what frequencies and that he did.

He busted out the RTA and got to work as I watched. As I already stated, the door speakers are NOT 20-20 full range, but rather, 20hz-1khz. There has also been confusion as to whether the rear speakers are full range..and that too is incorrect. The rear speakers from factory are 50hz-20khz....so close, but no cigar. Now this is the interesting part...the installer figured he'd just sum the rear speakers with my sub channel and get a full range signal but when he put the RTA on the sub wires, there was NO SIGNAL...NOTHING! He then checked the back of my factory amp and there was no sub output...which makes sense since I never had a sub from factory in my R/T. The sub wires are there, just no signal at all for the sub wires. So being there was an issue with sound quality summing my front door and center channels, he summed the rear channel and the front channel which yields a full range signal, and all I can say is it has NEVER SOUNDED SO CLEAR AND POWERFUL.

So you were right Frank. The rear channels don't go below 50hz, therefore you can't use the rear channel by itself as the main input on the LC6i. You still need the additional 30hz for the sub. Hopefully this info helps others who have the same setup with the premium alpine system and did NOT have a factory sub...as again, the factory wiring for the sub produce NO SIGNAL AT ALL. I'm glad this is FINALLY resolved. :smileup:
"As I already stated, the door speakers are NOT 20-20 full range, but rather, 20hz-1khz"

" The rear speakers from factory are 50hz-20khz"

spit balling:

could you run the rear signal(50hz-20khz) to an Audio control LC2i to an amp of choice to a set of components in the front doors?

then run the front door signal(20hz-1khz) to an Audio control LC2i to an amp of choice to subwoofer?

Then use the factory stereo and fade in the opposite direction.....i.e. if you wanted a front speaker bias you would fade to the rear?
 

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This is a bit of an old thread, and some of you have older Rams, but I thought it might be helpful to some to post measurements taken from my 2014 Ram with the Premium Alpine system.

I don't think its as simple as some others have made this out. The Premium Alpine system has relatively severe changes in voltages being fed to each speaker at different frequencies. So while technically a speaker may have a response at say 1000Hz, it may be anemic at best and effectively not even there in relation to the dB output at other frequencies.

For example, the frequency response of the front doors drops off a cliff below 50Hz. It may have a frequency response between 20Hz and 50Hz as others have posted, but its not much.

Also, the aggregate frequency response of the whole system is significantly lacking roughly between 650Hz and 1,200+ Hz. Several of us 2014 Ram owners with the Premium system have RTA measurements for the whole system that show a cliff within this spectrum, although it slightly differs from one truck to the next. This is due to a gap in the response from the front stage, if you use the rear speakers for summing you can eliminate this, although that may not be ideal for some.

In its simplest terms, overall dB response is dependent on the voltage the factory amp sends to each speaker at varying frequencies. So I found it helpful to measure the actual voltages being sent to each speaker at varying frequencies to get a better fell for what was going on.

In any case, if it helps anyone, here are my readings. A good rule of thumb to keep in mind when reviewing the below is that you're really not getting much dB output for any speaker output signals that are less than 1V.

Voltages from Factory Amp (2nd number is with Surround Mode On)

Dash Mids:
0.014 to 0.018 (50 HZ)
0.62 to 0.79V (1KHz)
2.394 to 2.977V (3.5KHz)
3.39 to 4.24V (5KHz)

Front Doors:
5.80 to 7.22V (50 Hz)
0.506 to 0.630V (1KHz)
0.033 to 0.044V (3.5KHz)
0.011 to 0.016V (5KHz)

Rear Doors:
3.42 to 2.76V (50Hz)
5.26 to 4.27V (1KHz)
7.91 to 6.42V (3.5KHz)
8.21 to 6.66V (5KHz)

Sub:
7.76 to 9.78V (50 Hz)
You will see up front that none of the speakers are getting much of a signal at 1KHz. I also took measurements of the front door speakers below 50Hz and they drop off a cliff, so I would not use them for signals between 20Hz and 50Hz, but I did not record those readings.

The most troubling and uncorrectable aspect of the Premium Alpine system is that the HU (at least mine) begins to clip at a volume of 22 on a scale of 38, and many of the signals are distorted way before they start to clip in a conventional sense. I used an o-scope to measure all the speaker signals, and the dash mids are significantly distorted at 1kHz and below, the rears are distorted throughout their entire frequency range (and these are the closest to a full range signal for summing purposes) and the sub is very distorted below 50Hz. My signal distortion was so bad the dealer was willing to exchange my factory amp. I will be installing it this weekend, but I would actually be surprised if it's much better.

So no matter what you invest in this system, LOC, DSP, etc., there is only so much you can do with it. You can get good results, but if you are an audiophile, you may not be satisfied with it. I had problems with a high noise floor just using the speaker level inputs on my DSP (Bit One) due to the low voltages from the factory amp that requires you to turn up the gains on the amps. I worked around this by adding an LC6I LOC to convert the speaker level inputs to RCAs, and I am now using the RCA pre-ins on the DSP with much better results. Not sure I would recommend this though, as there are too many components each with their own imitations and clipping points and tuning the system is a bear.

It's also interesting to note that I've been trying to figure out exactly what the Surround Mode setting does. Based on the above readings, it appears to increase the voltages to all speakers except the rears by 25%. It actually reduces the voltage being sent to the rears by 25%. If I did my math correctly (correct me if I'm wrong here), this translates to a significant increase in RMS power to the speakers in the front stage and the sub (~60%). However, it does change the sound stage significantly if you are using the rears as fill. I tried tuning my system both ways, Surround Mode on and off, and I found better results tuning it with it off. I will still occasionally turn it on depending on the type of music I am listening to. I think the Surround Mode also changes the EQ curves, but I can not confirm that.

One more point, you MUST use your DSP to control the volume on any system with a DSP. The factory amp uses dynamic EQ curves that vary drastically with volume, extremely muddy bass at low volumes and no bass at high volumes. So you need to tune your DSP with your HU at the maximum volume it will play at cleanly (22 on a scale of 38 for me) and leave it there, then tune your system.

Anyway, I hope this helps some fellow Premium Alpine sufferers, and if I'm off base on anything, let me know. Tx.
 

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This is a bit of an old thread, and some of you have older Rams, but I thought it might be helpful to some to post measurements taken from my 2014 Ram with the Premium Alpine system.

I don't think its as simple as some others have made this out. The Premium Alpine system has relatively severe changes in voltages being fed to each speaker at different frequencies. So while technically a speaker may have a response at say 1000Hz, it may be anemic at best and effectively not even there in relation to the dB output at other frequencies.

For example, the frequency response of the front doors drops off a cliff below 50Hz. It may have a frequency response between 20Hz and 50Hz as others have posted, but its not much.

Also, the aggregate frequency response of the whole system is significantly lacking roughly between 650Hz and 1,200+ Hz. Several of us 2014 Ram owners with the Premium system have RTA measurements for the whole system that show a cliff within this spectrum, although it slightly differs from one truck to the next. This is due to a gap in the response from the front stage, if you use the rear speakers for summing you can eliminate this, although that may not be ideal for some.

In its simplest terms, overall dB response is dependent on the voltage the factory amp sends to each speaker at varying frequencies. So I found it helpful to measure the actual voltages being sent to each speaker at varying frequencies to get a better fell for what was going on.

In any case, if it helps anyone, here are my readings. A good rule of thumb to keep in mind when reviewing the below is that you're really not getting much dB output for any speaker output signals that are less than 1V.
Voltages from Factory Amp (2nd number is with Surround Mode On)

Dash Mids:
0.014 to 0.018 (50 HZ)
0.62 to 0.79V (1KHz)
2.394 to 2.977V (3.5KHz)
3.39 to 4.24V (5KHz)

Front Doors:
5.80 to 7.22V (50 Hz)
0.506 to 0.630V (1KHz)
0.033 to 0.044V (3.5KHz)
0.011 to 0.016V (5KHz)

Rear Doors:
3.42 to 2.76V (50Hz)
5.26 to 4.27V (1KHz)
7.91 to 6.42V (3.5KHz)
8.21 to 6.66V (5KHz)

Sub:
7.76 to 9.78V (50 Hz)
You will see up front that none of the speakers are getting much of a signal at 1KHz. I also took measurements of the front door speakers below 50Hz and they drop off a cliff, so I would not use them for signals between 20Hz and 50Hz, but I did not record those readings.

The most troubling and uncorrectable aspect of the Premium Alpine system is that the HU (at least mine) begins to clip at a volume of 22 on a scale of 38, and many of the signals are distorted way before they start to clip in a conventional sense. I used an o-scope to measure all the speaker signals, and the dash mids are significantly distorted at 1kHz and below, the rears are distorted throughout their entire frequency range (and these are the closest to a full range signal for summing purposes) and the sub is very distorted below 50Hz. My signal distortion was so bad the dealer was willing to exchange my factory amp. I will be installing it this weekend, but I would actually be surprised if it's much better.

So no matter what you invest in this system, LOC, DSP, etc., there is only so much you can do with it. You can get good results, but if you are an audiophile, you may not be satisfied with it. I had problems with a high noise floor just using the speaker level inputs on my DSP (Bit One) due to the low voltages from the factory amp that requires you to turn up the gains on the amps. I worked around this by adding an LC6I LOC to convert the speaker level inputs to RCAs, and I am now using the RCA pre-ins on the DSP with much better results. Not sure I would recommend this though, as there are too many components each with their own imitations and clipping points and tuning the system is a bear.

It's also interesting to note that I've been trying to figure out exactly what the Surround Mode setting does. Based on the above readings, it appears to increase the voltages to all speakers except the rears by 25%. It actually reduces the voltage being sent to the rears by 25%. If I did my math correctly (correct me if I'm wrong here), this translates to a significant increase in RMS power to the speakers in the front stage and the sub (~60%). However, it does change the sound stage significantly if you are using the rears as fill. I tried tuning my system both ways, Surround Mode on and off, and I found better results tuning it with it off. I will still occasionally turn it on depending on the type of music I am listening to. I think the Surround Mode also changes the EQ curves, but I can not confirm that.

One more point, you MUST use your DSP to control the volume on any system with a DSP. The factory amp uses dynamic EQ curves that vary drastically with volume, extremely muddy bass at low volumes and no bass at high volumes. So you need to tune your DSP with your HU at the maximum volume it will play at cleanly (22 on a scale of 38 for me) and leave it there, then tune your system.

Anyway, I hope this helps some fellow Premium Alpine sufferers, and if I'm off base on anything, let me know. Tx.


Did you also check the freq response from the HU as well, I asked this in the previous post, some are saying the non alpine system with the 8.4A and AN has full freq 20 t0 20k front and rear doors. You should have done the tests at the HU, the source of the whole system to eliminate the amp. Looks like you did a lot of work, but the problem may lie in the amp where the crossovers are. If the HU has full freq output, then it`s an easy fix with replacing the factory amp, if not most are stuck with this poorly designed system. At this point the distortion could be caused by the HU and/or amp, I would bet it is the amp, I will testing the front door speakers freq output from the HU this summer. It`s too bad they didn`t use RCA connections from HU to the amp instead using the high speaker input amp. Really poor design
 

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the 2015 Ram 1500 brochure reads

Speaker System
6, Standard

Premium 1;
Regular Cab only
7 speaker 8 channel amp

Premium 11;
10 speakers
Subwoofer
12 channel amplifier
( Sport Premium Group, QC & CC cabs only )
Standard in the Bighorn & Long Horn
Optional in some other models
_____________________________________________
i found nothing technical, but ..

I just went to the Harman Kardon website
saw this on the 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee

On board the Jeep Grand Cherokee, HARMAN has paired the Uconnect infotainment system with premium Harman/Kardon audio. The nineteen-speaker, 825-watt high-performance surround sound system delivers in a 7.3 speaker playback architecture clear, powerful sound to every seat in the car. This state-of-the-art system features three subwoofers driven by Jeep’s 1st eleven-channel high voltage GreenEdge™ Class-D amplifier. The system surrounds, thanks to the legendary Logic7® multichannel surround-sound technology, the occupants in high-definition sound. All components include HARMAN’s innovative GreenEdge™ technology for less power consumption while delivering an increased sound performance

http://news.harman.com/Press-Releases/Jeep-Grand-Cherokee-drivers-sit-back-and-enjoy-with-new-HARMAN-infotainment-and-audio-systems-da.aspx

&

http://dev.text100.com/harman-presskit/files/2013/05/HARMAN_Press Slide_Audio.pdf
 

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Did you also check the freq response from the HU as well, I asked this in the previous post, some are saying the non alpine system with the 8.4A and AN has full freq 20 t0 20k front and rear doors. You should have done the tests at the HU, the source of the whole system to eliminate the amp. Looks like you did a lot of work, but the problem may lie in the amp where the crossovers are. If the HU has full freq output, then it`s an easy fix with replacing the factory amp, if not most are stuck with this poorly designed system. At this point the distortion could be caused by the HU and/or amp, I would bet it is the amp, I will testing the front door speakers freq output from the HU this summer. It`s too bad they didn`t use RCA connections from HU to the amp instead using the high speaker input amp. Really poor design
The Premium Alpine system uses a Canbus, you can't isolate the HU from the amp. In other words, there are no speaker level outputs on the HU.
 

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The Premium Alpine system uses a Canbus, you can't isolate the HU from the amp. In other words, there are no speaker level outputs on the HU.
That makes sense, the 8.4 whether on the prem or the non prem system uses an amp either a 8 or 12 channel which has to communicate to the HU. I would leave the factory amp connected to communicate with the HU and keep all the HU functions, then cut the speaker wires at the amp input and connect LOC and leave everything connected. The schematic shows speaker connections from HU to amp, unless the schematic is wrong. I would bet the factory amp is causing all the distortion, connecting another amp from the output of it thru an LOC is really not a solution it still getting a poor signal unless you connect a high output amp or amps and keep the volume under 25. Thanks for the testing you did.
 

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The most troubling and uncorrectable aspect of the Premium Alpine system is that the HU (at least mine) begins to clip at a volume of 22 on a scale of 38, and many of the signals are distorted way before they start to clip in a conventional sense. I used an o-scope to measure all the speaker signals, and the dash mids are significantly distorted at 1kHz and below, the rears are distorted throughout their entire frequency range (and these are the closest to a full range signal for summing purposes) and the sub is very distorted below 50Hz. My signal distortion was so bad the dealer was willing to exchange my factory amp. I will be installing it this weekend, but I would actually be surprised if it's much better.
As an update, I installed the new factory amp today and the distorted waveforms are the same. However, the EQ seems to have been changed and the boomy bass is mostly gone from the system. The replacement amp had a different part number than my original one, so (subjectively) it appears they changed something in the factory programmed dynamic EQ. It's actually a bit light on the bass now.

Here's the find of the day...the signal distortion and early clipping at an HU volume of 22 is only when using the CD Player (which I almost never use). My signals are ALL clean up to an HU volume of 31 when using the Aux or USB ports.

So I retuned using the Bit One setup files off a thumb drive in the USB port with the HU set at a volume of 31 and I now have much stronger signals, the noise floor is mostly gone, and I was able to ditch the LOC.
 
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