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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Building a 365. Eagle forged crank & H beam rods, forged probe pistons, Indy heads with shaft mounted roller rockers. Gonna boost it, looking at a 78/75 turbo. Maybe a little spray also.
 

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Nice, looking forward to seeing the finished product!
 

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Interesting, is there a particular reason you opted for LA 360 heads instead of magnum heads? I see your block does have the oiling passage so that won't be an issue, would I be correct in assuming that since you have an early block you just prefer the stability of the shaft mounted setup over the extra power on offer with magnum heads?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Interesting, is there a particular reason you opted for LA 360 heads instead of magnum heads? I see your block does have the oiling passage so that won't be an issue, would I be correct in assuming that since you have an early block you just prefer the stability of the shaft mounted setup over the extra power on offer with magnum heads?
Correct, I would prefer shaft mounted over pedestal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Cool, well that makes sense with the shafts then, still using hydraulic rollers?
Yes, still hydraulic. Ordered the cam & beehive springs to go with it. I was weary about the heads(which I bought from him) at first when my engine builder said they're good to go for this build. He pointed out the oil passages and talked about his build using the same heads.

I trust what he says cause he knows what he's doing, and can back it up. He's very humble and not the bragging type, which I really like. The old timer is somewhat of an IHRA legend, 3 of his engines hold 1/4 like records in different divisions (1 wherr he was the driver also), and also a 1/8 mile record. And to top it off he is a Mopar fanatic, which in a world where everyone has built thousands of chevys, to find a mopar guy like this close to me is nice.
 

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Yes, still hydraulic. Ordered the cam & beehive springs to go with it. I was weary about the heads(which I bought from him) at first when my engine builder said they're good to go for this build. He pointed out the oil passages and talked about his build using the same heads.

I trust what he says cause he knows what he's doing, and can back it up. He's very humble and not the bragging type, which I really like. The old timer is somewhat of an IHRA legend, 3 of his engines hold 1/4 like records in different divisions (1 wherr he was the driver also), and also a 1/8 mile record. And to top it off he is a Mopar fanatic, which in a world where everyone has built thousands of chevys, to find a mopar guy like this close to me is nice.
Okay well if I can add a little since I have already gone down this path......you are going to want really good lifters to avoid pump up at that RPM. Stock ones can only reliably go to around 5500 before you risk pump up, also you are going to need some serious spring pressures at that RPM. I am using #430lb open and #135 seat with a 6000 redline but the springs will be good to 7k. Beehives are good but make sure they have enough weight to control the valves and since they don't have a damper spring you may encounter freak oscillation up high, I am using traditional double springs with dampers.

I assume you are using 2.02 or 2.05 size intake valves? The LA heads can be ported quite a lot so if you have the larger valves and are planning high RPM for power like you seem to be suggesting is the plan shoot for 260 CFM on the heads with at least 200 cfm by .350 lift and combine this with a 3000ish stall converter and cam to match. The turbo makes it easier but be warned that iron heads and boost are going to have you walking a fine line with detonation since these engines do not have a way to monitor knock and retard timing to prevent damage, the low RPM is not going to be that strong due to the fact the turbo is going to take a while to spool depending on how you set it up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ordered an edelbrock super victor intake and fuel rails. It's coming along slowly but surely. Long block should be complete next week.
 

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Any reason why you didn't stroke it? If it's going back into the pickup, I would think you would want the extra torque as long as the cost of the stroker crank/rods/pistons was still inline with your budget.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Any reason why you didn't stroke it? If it's going back into the pickup, I would think you would want the extra torque as long as the cost of the stroker crank/rods/pistons was still inline with your budget.
I bought a forged shortblock and "built" transmission for less than a new rotating assembly cost. The block & internals checked out great, but put in new bearings, rings, cam bearings & freeze plugs because why not. Tranny is getting checked out now too.
 

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It's Edelbrock, part # 28155. Even though I have an early magnum block, I have Indy heads that bolt up LA style.
Ah I see, I have the magnum pattern so it would not work off the shelf. Oh well, nice to know it's out there though if I ever change.
 
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