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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I finally got the new brakes installed on my 2010. It was a nice day yesterday afternoon, so I dusted off the tools and went at it. I did both pads and rotors. I opted for the Hawk LTS pads and Hawk Quiet Slot rotors. The install went relatively smooth, no busted knuckles, but I did have to modify a 17mm wrench slightly to remove the caliper bolts. In all the installation took about 1.5 hours.

Here are a few pics showing the installation.

Pic 1 - the new pads and rotors

Pic 2 - shows the stock set up with front wheel removed

Pic 3 - caliper is removed. A 13mm wrench/socket was needed to loosen the caliper bolt, but there is also a 17mm backing nut on the caliper itself that needed to be held. My regular 17mm wrench was too thick to fit between the caliper and bracket so I took one of my other lesser 17mm wrenches and ground it a bit thinner so it would fit. With the two wrenches together, the caliper bolts came off quite easily.

Pic 4 - shows the old pads once they came off. The wear between the inside and outside pad was quite even surprisingly, although the inside (piston side) pad a slightly more wear on the leading edge. You can kinda see this in the pic. It's the pad on the bottom (left side)

Pic 5 - shows the old and new pad side by side

Pic 6 and 7 - shows the caliper bracket and bolts. I showed the bolts in my hand to show the relative size of them. I needed a 21mm to loosen those buggers, and they were TIGHT!!! Had to smack the end of the wrench with a hammer to bust them loose.

Pic 8 - shows the old rotor once it was removed. The wear on it was even and as expected.

Pic 9 - shows the new Hawk rotor and caliper bracket installed.

Pic 10 - shows the caliper pistons being compressed back into place. I used a large C-clamp for this. I just had to make sure the clamp was centered as much as possible. On the first try I just had it on one side and as I was squeezing the one piston back in, the other piston was coming out. Moving the calmp over a bit solved that problem

Pic 11 - shows the spring retainer clips on the stock pads. They just had to be pulled off and put on the new pads.

Pic 12 - shows the new pads installed in the caliper bracket. With the clips on the ends of the pads, they were a bit fussy to get into the slots on the bracket. A little tapping here and there solved that. After they were installed I smeared some high temp brake lubricant onto the backs of the pads. A smalled packet of lube came with the pads.

Pic 13 - shows the caliper-installed

Pic 14 - shows the final assembly

Pic 15 - shows all the tools I needed - hammer, 13mm wrench, 13mm socket and ratchet, modified 17mm wrench, 21 mm wrench, C-clamp, and flat head screwdriver (not shown).

After I installed the pads and rotors, I followed Hawks bedding-in procedure.
1. 6-10 moderate stops from 30 - 35 mph
2. 3 hard stops from 40 - 45 mph.
3. Minimum 15 minute cool down period before further use

After each stop, the brakes felt progressively better. When I took the truck out last night to go to hockey, there was a noticable improvement from stock. It wasn't night and day, but it was enough to take notice. At highway speed, when I tapped the brakes, they had a good initial bite, moreso than stock. I haven't really pounded on them (yet) to see how they perform. A friend of mine has a 2011 QC hemi. I'm going to ask him to do a side by side braking test for comparison. I'll post the results of that when I get to it.

There was also a Hawk sticker that came with the pads (seen in the last picture). If someone wants it, send me a PM with your address and I'll mail it to you. Otherwise I'm just going to throw it away

JJ
 

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good job and thanks for the write up, how many miles were on ur truck? reps to ya
 

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Nice job on the replacements

I also wonder what your mileage is

I have 62,000 miles on my Ram & the dealership has not even mentioned brake pads or rotors yet, they have mentioned a brake fluid change, power steering fluid change, & radiator flush.
I will do the pads & fluid change at the same time, the Rams pads have lasted a year longer than my last truck did, they were at 70% wear at 2 years
 

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My 2010 has I think 57,000 miles and my pads are great. I suspect the PO had changed them since they have a lot of meat on them. The truck had 38,000 miles when I bought it about 13 months ago.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Moparornocar72 - thanks for the rep points. Much appreciated.

My truck has just shy of 70,000 km on it or a little over 43,000 miles.

When I last brought the truck into the dealership for service about 6 weeks ago, they told me the pads had about 10% life left in them. I was skeptical at the time considering the mileage, but knowing what I use the truck for (I am a contractor), and how/where I drive the truck, I figured it was plausible.

But as you can see from the pics, there's still a fair bit of life left in the pads. The wear bar/groove was still well defined. Admittedly, I probably could've gotten another 15,000 - 20,000 km on them without any problem.

Gauging brake wear by mileage alone probably isn't a good benchmark. My driving is probably 60/40 city/highway. I'm sure if it was +80% highway, I could've easily gotten another 50,000km on them or better.

JJ
 

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I got just about 70,000km on mine and by the feel from my brake pedal, I shall soon be due for news pads...Perhaps rotors as well...I will get a good look at them when I take my winter treads off...
 

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I will take the sticker! LOL
 

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I just changed mine at 14,000 miles due to a warped rotor, the pads had a lot of life left on them but I decided to change them and put ceramics on. I also purchased rears but haven't installed them. I went with Powerstop drilled and slotted rotors. Does any body know if the rear rotors are larger?
 

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im surprised at how little the disks were slotted...
 

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great pics and tool tips. did my front pads. 43K miles. only about 1/3 worn. I do 80/20 hghwy/city. about 2 weeks ago starter hearing front d/s squeak. pulled everything off and there was debris jammed in the wear groove indicator slot. I've heard it happening but never had it happen to me. all good now. used powerstop extreme duty truck/suv pads (z36-1084). came with new slides and synthetic grease in the pack.
 
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