First, do you do your own work? I did a brake job on mine at about 80,000 miles and replaced the rotors. I ordered all my parts from Summitt Racing. I bought cross drilled and slotted rotors and new pads (Power Stop brand) and if I remember everything was about $500. +

 

Its good practice to change the rotors at the same time, if their is any uneven wear on the rotors it effect's your breaking. In the old days they would just turn the rotors but no shops do that anymore because rotors are so cheap now its not worth the shop time.. Who ever is quoting you $2000 for pads and rotors is out to lunch and its time to find a new shop. I did mine last year and i was into it for around $500-$600 for front and rear..

 

Thank you all, this is helpful! I do not do my own work. I have read about the Powerstop rotors and they look very impressive. I'd like to swap the rotors while I am having the brakes done... but I am currently unemployed. So can I get by with just pads if the rotors are ok?

 

Yes.
I had an ‘05 Ram Daytona that I either just replaced the pads, or had the rotors turned too, until I traded the truck in 2014.
It still had the original rotors.

 

There is no need to replace rotors unless there is an issue with them like scoring.

 

Since y'all were so kind with info, and to help people searching this issue down the line... here is what happened and the costs. I took it to Brakes Plus in town. Typically I don't trust those sort of chain stores, but this saved me 2 hours of driving. We got it up on the lift and it needed everything. New brakes, new rotors, and new calipers for the rears. Again, dude showed me all this stuff patiently. Said they could do it today in a couple of hours, and I knew the truck wasn't safe to drive. He offered to find me some online coupons and such, but the final cost was $1,500 out the door. The rotors are a heavy duty aftermarket (since we tow horses), but they weren't the Powerstop ones.

the truck has 76K miles on it, many of them hard. It's used as a daily driver, plus hauls trailers and is ranch truck, and the worst thing about my truck's life is living down a dirt road. That shit gets everywhere, and becomes very damaging when its mud. I think this is the first major work done since I bought it new.

 

Just curious, what was wrong with the rotors?

 

Its good practice to change the rotors at the same time, if their is any uneven wear on the rotors it effect's your breaking.

NO, it isn't good practice for anyone to change the rotors each pad change. It is great for the parts supplier though. A rotor that isn't damaged, scored or warped is fine to keep in service.
Brake shops are notorious for using scare tactics to pad the bill. If the pedal doesn't pulsate and the truck doesn't shake when braking, the rotors are probably fine.

There is no need to replace rotors unless there is an issue with them like scoring.

FACT.
If you ran the pads too long and went metal to metal, that is where it is smart to have the rotors machined at least, if not replaced. Calipers rarely fail in dry climates but if you live where there is a lot of rain or snow, the mud and slush can get on the brakes and grind away at the seals, pistons and of course, the rotors.
I realize that not everyone is willing or capable of doing their own work but some things like brakes are actually quite easy to do for a fraction of the cost of paying a shop to do it.
I used to commute 1000 miles a week and did all of my own servicing except wheel alignments. Oil changes, transmission servicing, brake jobs, spark plugs and replacing any part that goes bad.
The $1500 the OP paid isn't horrible given the high cost of everything....when even mouth breather idiots are getting $15 an hour to make tacos or flip burgers, a trained mechanic is certainly worth much more than that.
Still, you could have done the work yourself for less than half the cost. You'd need tools and a place to do the work, not everyone has those.
I'll buy an expensive tool that I need if I think I'll use it on more than one job, otherwise I'd buy a cheaper tool or see if a buddy has one to lend.
It worked out well for you though. Maybe consider getting familiar with basic maintenance so you can do some of the stuff you're comfortable with.
I have been able to get this many miles....

Out of this 2007 Dodge....

...and still have the original calipers on it. Yeah, I've replaced the pads and rotors numerous times over the years but then, I like doing this stuff.

 

NO, it isn't good practice for anyone to change the rotors each pad change. It is great for the parts supplier though. A rotor that isn't damaged, scored or warped is fine to keep in service.
Brake shops are notorious for using scare tactics to pad the bill. If the pedal doesn't pulsate and the truck doesn't shake when braking, the rotors are probably fine.


FACT.
If you ran the pads too long and went metal to metal, that is where it is smart to have the rotors machined at least, if not replaced. Calipers rarely fail in dry climates but if you live where there is a lot of rain or snow, the mud and slush can get on the brakes and grind away at the seals, pistons and of course, the rotors.
I realize that not everyone is willing or capable of doing their own work but some things like brakes are actually quite easy to do for a fraction of the cost of paying a shop to do it.
I used to commute 1000 miles a week and did all of my own servicing except wheel alignments. Oil changes, transmission servicing, brake jobs, spark plugs and replacing any part that goes bad.
The $1500 the OP paid isn't horrible given the high cost of everything....when even mouth breather idiots are getting $15 an hour to make tacos or flip burgers, a trained mechanic is certainly worth much more than that.
Still, you could have done the work yourself for less than half the cost. You'd need tools and a place to do the work, not everyone has those.
I'll buy an expensive tool that I need if I think I'll use it on more than one job, otherwise I'd buy a cheaper tool or see if a buddy has one to lend.
It worked out well for you though. Maybe consider getting familiar with basic maintenance so you can do some of the stuff you're comfortable with.
I have been able to get this many miles....

View attachment 150260

Out of this 2007 Dodge....

View attachment 150261 View attachment 150261

...and still have the original calipers on it. Yeah, I've replaced the pads and rotors numerous times over the years but then, I like doing this stuff.

I'm real curious what was wrong with the calipers..
I have 280K on my 2013 Ram 1500 Quad Cab and the calipers are still in great shape.

 

Repair shops are likely unwilling to guarantee their brake jobs with used parts, e.g., used rotors.

The machines used by local shops to turn rotors do not have the precision of the equipment used by factories producing new rotors. I learned that the hard way after 3 bad turns. New rotors can now be found reasonable priced and have become consumables.

DIY brake jobs do save a chunk of change. I do reuse my rotors with new brake pad if warranted. However, I never get them turned anymore.

 

I remember when disc brakes first came out. And I would see signs at different shops advertising break jobs. These shops wanted more money to do disc brakes (that is when you had disc on the front and drum on the back), just a little history. Anyway, I do my work myself. I had a V10 2500, and I was doing a break job on it (I had this truck from new). So, on the front was disc, so, I took them to an auto parts store to have them turned. They said that they were too thin and wanted me to buy new rotors (they looked good to me). I told them no thank you. I went home and got my angle grinder and roughed up the rotors. I put the rotors back on the truck with the new pads. I never had any problem with that truck, and we pulled a 30-foot toy box with that we would take our car to all the big car shows around the country. I am now 75 and like I said, I work on our vehicles myself. If y'all would learn to work on your vehicles yourself, just think how much money you would save on labor. This is just my thoughts. To each their own. Most of the time, when I drive my trucks that I have had over the years, I have the radio turned off, that way you can listen to your truck and will know when it is making a new sound, and you can investigate it before it is too late.

 

very smart I agree

 

You should ALWAYS have rotors turned when you replace brake pads. The minimum thickness is stamped right on the hub, usually inside it.

I've been replacing my rotors with aftermarket ones which are dimpled and slotted. They perform a lot better especially in wet weather. It's been a while since I ordered a set, but looking back at old emails I bought a set of slotted and dimpled rotors and ceramic pads for $265.00 in 2019. Those were front rotors, rear ones would be a bit more and you may need the internal shoes (doubtful).

Last brake job I did on my Ram 2500 I had to replace one caliper, I think that was less than $100. You don't need a lot of special tools to do a brake job, it's pretty straightforward.

So, pads and new rotors (you probably didn't need rotors, turning they would be less than $100), $350 say; calipers (doubt you needed those) $200 tops, parts = around $550. More likely you only needed new pads, turned rotors, less than $200. So the shop charged you "labor" plus parts markup of about $1000 +. And they will use the cheapest parts they can get too, so you probably didn't get that good a brake job anyway.

Repair shops are in business to make money, not necessarily to fix your car.

 

The rotors have a minimum thickness. It is best practice to replace the rotors and pads at the same time. I put new pads on old rotors before and they wore out prematurely. This is what I use:
Amazon.com: Detroit Axle - Brake Kit for 2006-2018 Dodge Ram 1500, 2007-2009 Dodge Durango Chrysler Aspen Drilled Slotted Brake Rotors and Ceramic Brakes Pads Front and Rear Replacement : 13.23" inch Front Rotor : Automotive \
Your stopping will improve

 

My original brakes lasted 199k miles from the factory on 09 Laramie 1500. When I done the brake job myself I had 2 rotors turned and all new high end ceramic pads from O'Reilly's. I have made it 34k miles and hear grinding. Thats unacceptable and not even close to what I expected. I am changing out everything today, all 4 rotors and pads after reading this thread.

 

Turning the rotors removes metal. Less metal means more heat! Enough said.

 

If you guys are comfortable resurfacing or replacing rotors that look fine, go right ahead.
You think it is necessasary just like SOME people chose certain medical injections.
Some felt it wasn't necessary and went on to be just fine.
New pads over rotors without damage is fine. What do you think that you gain by resurfacing or replacing a rotor that isn't grooved or damaged? It is very likely that you are engaging in a "feel good" measure that provides zero improvement.
Go ahead and spend the money if you have it. Don't expect your advice to have any impact on those that know better.
In my 41 years of messing with cars, I've put new shoes and pads over worn out drums and rotors, clean used ones, freshly resurfaced ones and new ones. A new pad will wear into the grooves of a scored rotor and still stop just fine. You are playing it safe based on a perceived fear of failure that probably won't happen.

There are calculated risks we all take where the chance of failure is determined by experience. You have a far higher risk of failure from a fluid leak like a caliper or master cylinder.
I have well over 1.5 million miles of driving in my life and 98% of the repairs and maintenance of the cars and trucks have been done by me with zero brake failures.
The sky isn't falling, people.

 

If you guys are comfortable resurfacing or replacing rotors that look fine, go right ahead.
You think it is necessasary just like SOME people chose certain medical injections.
Some felt it wasn't necessary and went on to be just fine.
New pads over rotors without damage is fine. What do you think that you gain by resurfacing or replacing a rotor that isn't grooved or damaged? It is very likely that you are engaging in a "feel good" measure that provides zero improvement.
Go ahead and spend the money if you have it. Don't expect your advice to have any impact on those that know better.
In my 41 years of messing with cars, I've put new shoes and pads over worn out drums and rotors, clean used ones, freshly resurfaced ones and new ones. A new pad will wear into the grooves of a scored rotor and still stop just fine. You are playing it safe based on a perceived fear of failure that probably won't happen.

There are calculated risks we all take where the chance of failure is determined by experience. You have a far higher risk of failure from a fluid leak like a caliper or master cylinder.
I have well over 1.5 million miles of driving in my life and 98% of the repairs and maintenance of the cars and trucks have been done by me with zero brake failures.
The sky isn't falling, people.

You are probably replacing the pads more often than if you installed new rotors.

 

400,000 miles on this 2007 truck alone. 33,000 on my last one that was broadsided, 165,000 on my 2002, 443,000 on an '84 Chevy. Nobody else has touched the brakes but me on those trucks or any of my cars since 1982.
Changing rotors before hitting metal to metal may not have hurt anything but my wallet but it wasn't always needed.
Go ahead...spend the money if it makes you feel better.

 

I have owned my own shop for years. Years ago we would have turned rotors depending on the amount of thickness measured. However quoted you that much to do aa brake job, really think people are stupid!! You should really replace the rotors because they get glazed over and do not retain the same stopping ability. Especially if you tow much. How much do you value your cargo? Versus the cost of doing the job right the first time.

 

Debatable to the end of time…

I replaced noisy front pads only with z16 at 50k and ended up then needing rotors/pads at 120k because the inside pad prematurely separated.

Rear pads and parking brake shoes at 90k, really depends on application use.

 

My 2020 1500 Lonestar, I have 145,500 on original brakes . Only tow 12 ft utility trailer
Lots highway miles

 

Rotors today are not like they were on older trucks where the bearings were mounted in the hub of the rotor. Also rotors today are much thinner to start which decrease weight and increase fuel efficiency. If you rotors are in perfect condition and have not been turned before then you can have them turned. However this decreases the amount of metal there.

My process is to replace fronts each time up to about 130K miles. My rear I tend to "scuff" with sand paper to break the surface shine and reseat the new pads. The reason I tend to stop around 130K miles is that the likelihood of a caliper failure or something else resulting in damage to rotor and therefore requiring rotor replacement increase substantially.

I am not a mechanic, but I also do not let anyone else do my brakes, as I custom fit my pads and take every precaution to minimize pad or caliper hang-ups. I've actual moved to anti seize in the guide pins so they are less like to freeze up and cause the caliper to hang-up.

 

That is BS. I've been working on vehicles since the early 70's. If the used rotors are cleaned properly and the brake machine runs true there is no reason in the world why you can't turn a good used rotors. RAM 2500 rotors are not cheap. They go for over $100 each. I have had no problems turning rotors on my own personally owned machine.

 

Repair shops have to guarantee their work so they don’t take chances with your vehicle and cut corners on your brakes since if they are not done properly you could run yourself into a tree and die. If you were to have an accident and hurt someone and someone did a half assed brake job you would definitely go back on them and sue them so why would anyone be annoyed with a bill to replace parts I personally drive a 2500 pro master every day and know how expensive parts are and how hard they are to come by so I know how you feel however being a mechanic is the only job I’ve ever done professionally

 

I definitely don't agree that it's a RAM thing to have to change rotors for every brake job. I know that I have changed brake pads on my 2011 RAM 1500 without having to replace the rotors, too. Now, I've changed the rotors in the past, but the truck has over 107,000 miles. I just replaced the brake pads, front and rear, on my fiancee's Jeep Grand Cherokee without having to change the rotors.
Rotors are now made much thinner, so turning them is almost not cost effective. Used to be that you could get rotors turned 2 or 3 times before needing to replace them. Part of that is manufacturers are making them lighter for fuel economy. I had a 1975 Pontiac Grand Prix, and had the rotors turned a few times. But, they were noticably heavier than the ones nowadays.

 

Team,

Need your help. My brakes need to be replaced. No problem, the truck has 76K miles and tows horses. I haven't taken anything apart yet , but I am confident the rotors are absolutely fine... maybe could use a pinch of turning. My concern is this - my neighbor is a Ford mechanic (as in... only touches Fords), he said the Ram design is such that anytime i replace the pads I have to put in new rotors. Obviously, this triples my cost. I forgot his convoluted explanation for it. Am taking it to a brake chain place tomorrow for a look and second opinion. I want to know if I get out of this for about $500, or about $2,000.

Any feedback and opinions would be welcome. Y'all are the only ones I trust.

Kevin
Horse poop. The machine used to resurface rotors is just a lathe. It's not the lathes fault if the "technician" running is not really qualified or just in a hurry. I turned my rotors every time I changed my pads until it made more sense to buy new cuz they were so inexpensive. And I've been around a while. My first car had drum brakes all around.

 

Mikey gets it. Thank you for standing up for those that THINK for themselves.
Regarding failing calipers...
Maybe, driving in optimal conditions results in far fewer failures and less trouble. I'm in Northern CA where it doesn't snow and cars don't rust. 400,000 on original calipers and master cylinder but I've replaced the rotors a few times.
People living in the snow belt probably deal with whatever the cities use to dissolve snow for safer driving. Salt, sand, brine solution and who knows what else. All this stuff gets sprayed everywhere under the truck when you're driving.
Calipers have rubber boots to seal out the elements but what if the elements eat away at the seals?
I knew a guy in Nova Scotia that spoke of surface rust on the rotors of new trucks sitting on the dealer lots. I can only imagine how snow and rust affect some of you guys.
My truck looks only a few years old from underneath.

I've seen pictures and video of trucks 5 years old with 1/4 the miles and they look far worse!

 

"Messing with cars" can be interpreted many ways.
No, I'm not a professional mechanic. I'm a retired Carpenter that often drove 1200 miles a week commuting so I knew how to keep my cars running. I've restored numerous cars, rebuilt numerous engines, transmissions, done far more than the average "Dodge Ram" owner in terms of hands on work but I'll forgive you for being ignorant as to what I know and what I don't. I've seen people needlessly spend money for parts and repairs far too many times. Shops are encouraged to push parts and repairs for a variety of reasons including profit and the fear of litigation for a problem that would not likely happen. They can't take the .03% risk that it might.
I will not drive a car or truck with unsafe brakes. If I installed new pads over heavily scored rotors, I'd be an idiot. I was not suggesting that. I just see people defaulting to replacing rotors that still were fine to use and I stepped up to call it out.
Again, if YOU feel comfortable spending money where there probably is no benefit, go for it. If I did a short cut on my brakes and if they felt wrong, I'd admit the mistake and immediately correct it. So far, it has not happened.
Am I lucky or just sexy?

 

Mine has 156k miles, I tow a 23’ boat and have replaced pads twice but not rotors. I will do both rotors/pads this summer. I wonder if you buy the rotors/ pads you want and have a shop install. Only reason I would say you might change rotors is because you tow horses. 🐴 lot of weight. Otherwise there’s no reason rotors need to be replaced but inspect them.

 

Please keep this discussion thread on topic and civil. Otherwise it will be closed.