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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just recently tried to install my switchbacks, and only the amber lights up for running light (glitches right out) and signal works fine (but the trucks blinker hyperflashes with bulb out). Anyway I tried decoders which are a waste of money. The bulb has white running lights, but once the amber gets power it completely takes over which can be hazards or signal, then return to the white once the amber has no power. I used a multi-meter to check the connections, I found that my running lights get 12V consistently and the signal gets 6V consistently with only the parking lights activated, once I signal the 6V fluctuates. I know I need resistors but what about changing the flasher relay or something? For these bulbs to work I need to eliminate the 6V power in parking mode. If anyone has any other solutions or can share their set up for their switchbacks it would be much appreciated. Have a 2013 ram 1500 bighorn.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well I thought of a 5 pin relay but haven't gone too far with that, the flasher relay I think is probably the best bet. If I can figure out where the constant current for the signal is coming from then I can figure out if switchbacks are even do-able on the '13s+
 

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I purchased 80 Watt Cree Switch Back LED Bulbs (AO) from autolumination.com

I put them in place of my parking lights 3157 bulb. They were plug & play and I didn't need a resistor. Works great in my truck and are very bright.

The only thing that may be causing your problem is the day time running lights that i do no have.

Did you try the switch back bulbs inserted both directions. They work only installed one way. Flip them over.

Greg
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah I tried both directions, with and without the decoder. The DRLs are my high beam, I'm not sure I understand you with that one. The more I read online the more I'm thinking its the flasher because there is contact somewhere all the time. Probably some RAM specific relay to keep the coil heated in the flasher. I might try the EP27L relay. I will check out those bulbs and see how they work compared to mine. Any other ideas?
 

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I contacted a few companies in the states and it sounds like in 2013 they changed something in the wiring and it seems to be only on the Canadian models, causes them to have issues. I've been told that these ones should work:

http://www.vleds.com/v3-wa-6k1.html

But apparently have to add the 10-up ford adapter which is one of the options.. i've contacted vled, and that's what they mentioned
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ive found a solution! At first I thought resistors wouldnt work. but they do. I used one 50w 4 ohm resistor and it pulls enough current from the signal to keep the running lights activated. I tested this out with pig tails instead of splicing into my stock wiring, will probably just tap into it anyway
 

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hmm.. i've got resistors on each side... to the turn signal and ground, and still hyper flashes, and the amber never comes on.. basically just stays white and flashes all over the place when i hit the turn signal
 

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idea!

hmm.. i've got resistors on each side... to the turn signal and ground, and still hyper flashes, and the amber never comes on.. basically just stays white and flashes all over the place when i hit the turn signal
just took a stab at this truck today, and even with resistors on both sides - running and flashing - and every combination, including diode isolating the circuits, they still hyper-flash...the amber does (sort of) show up in one configurations, but not really enough to be any more then totally annoying!! :LOL:
my thoughts are that a capacitor on the flashing side would possibly hold current so that when the amber fires, the LEDz get the full jolt that they need instead of the digitalized version that the BCM is feeding it? any guru thoughts??
(if i can convince the owner to spend an afternoon in my garage again i would be willing to try and report!) i need to kill this monster!!
 
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