[WarBaby]

I was not aware of the governor/tuner issue. Thanks for the heads-up on that and all other informative replies. A temporary solution for me (until tuner availability) might be to run our local 1/8 mile track instead of our 1/4 mile track...heh heh!

There are a couple of cocky eco-boost pilots around here whose personalities could benefit from some therapeutic humility. Being compassionate toward my fellow man, I am willing to render that therapy to them...a la 5.7 Hemi.

 

[WarBaby]

Great info guys...! :smileup:

 

[WarBaby]

For anyone wanting to know the official weight of late model Ram ST 17" X 7" steel rims...it is 32 pounds. I found it in an obscure .pdf file on the Dodge website.

 

[WarBaby]

I've solved the "smaller-tires-but-no-tuner-available-so-the-govenor-kicks-in-at-1000ft-problem". Hypertech makes a speedo calibrator that IS compatible with the 2011 up computers - I am running one in mine right now. Works just like the handheld tuners but only has options to check and clear DTCs and correct for tire size. I haven't had the opportunity to run at the track with the new set up, but my speedo is accurate with 30 inch tires. (had to tell the computer 29 inches!?)
:smileup:

Hmmm....I don't understand the 29" part--why?

 

[WarBaby]

Makes perfect sense. Thanks for your time and explanation--I'll remember that!

 

[WarBaby]

Yes, I know, I've weighed mine on a shop scale while rotating my tires. But that's with the tires. Wheel for wheel without tires, the R/T wheel is about the same weight as a sport wheel or any other 20 wheel. Although it looked like the 17 inchers were a good bit lighter.

I carefully weighed my 2011 ST 17" X 7" steel spare w/new Goodyear Wrangler SR-A 265/70R17 tire = 68.5 lbs.

Also, FYI:

Spare tire cable and ratchet assembly = 5.7 lbs.
Jack and handle = 9 lbs.
Tailgate = 57.5 lbs.

So, the mere removal of these parts saves 140 lbs. :smileup:

 

[WarBaby]

Ha...it's interesting that you mentioned battery relocation. I am in the process of doing exactly that with a generic Summit kit. I figured that the weight loss from the rear would complicate launch traction and decided to redistribute a few pounds from the front to the rear. I just bolted the new plastic battery box to the passenger side behind the wheel well. I haven't run the cables yet but the kit came with 20' of 2 gauge cable. I've done this before and it definitely helps.

By the way, you have an awesome truck. :smileup:

 

[WarBaby]

The Summit kit I chose is SUM-G1200A although they have many different kits.

 

[WarBaby]

My installation of the box...

 

[WarBaby]

Nice, mind posting pictures of the rest of the wiring?

Sure...but I am just now doing this and haven't run the cables yet (probably this weekend).

 

[WarBaby]

I will apologize in advance for hijacking the tread, but I am starting to see the potential to fail tech inspection at the track:

First, a bungee strap will NOT pass track tech to mount a battery. If not using the OEM mount, you must use at least 3/8" bolts/threaded rods (j-bolts are not acceptable either).

Second, I'm pretty sure you will require the battery disconnect switch with the relocated battery. I will be at Virginia Motorsports Park in Richmond this weekend for the Mopar Spring Fling - I will ask the tech inspectors to confirm, but I know this is the case for a car. Disconnect switches can be tricky as not all switches are NHRA approved. Also they must be tied in to the POSITIVE cable, not the negative cable, yet still shut a running vehicle down when switched off. If you wire straight between the positive battery terminal and the rest of the wiring circuit and turn the switch off while the vehicle is running, it will continue to run on the alternator and fail tech inspection.

Thanks for your constructive comments. The battery relocation job is incomplete. Most of my projects tend to be works in progress. I do things that are supposed to be fun when I feel like it. Otherwise, it is not much fun.

The bungee cord does not "hold" the battery. It only secures the plastic lid of the battery box. The box itself is bolted through the truck bed floor with three 3/8" bolts. I am working on a hardware retainer for the battery that should meet inspection standards--again, at my leisurely pace. Your comments about a cut off switch are well taken however and I'm pondering that.

Pics are here: My Hemi

 

[WarBaby]

WarBaby, that looks like one sweet sleeper!! :smileup:

Have you had a chance to get it to the track yet??

Thanks! No track times yet although there are 1/8-mile and 1/4-mile tracks within 30 and 60 minutes of me. I'll definitely get there when I consider the truck "ready" which will be when I get a 2800/3000 stall TQ (soon), 4.10 LSD gears, and traction to match. I used to drag race a lot in earlier years and the Hemi bug has bitten me again. I'm impressed by how well these 4th gen hemis run and respond to minor performance mods. Even the simple mods in my "About Me" list are starting to awaken the beast (and he's hungry)...hehehe :smiley_thumbs_up: