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Discussion Starter #1
A couple of weeks ago I got locked out of my truck. I could not unlock it with the FOB or the emergency key in the FOB. Had to get AAA to unlock it for me. It started with the drivers door lock acting funny It did not want to lock properly (had to hit the lock button (either on the FOB or on the door) several times before it would lock fully. It would go down a little each time but took several tries to get it locked). Next day it was fine and stayed good for a couple of weeks until yesterday then started acting up again.



Took it to the dealer this morning and luckily it messed up there so they saw what I was talking about.


Now here is the fix (it may save others from having to go to the dealer). They checked the star case file and found an engineering message about this. It seems that the connector for the tailgate lock (under the truck by the spare tire) has a tendency to get water in it and short out. My truck had a stored code that stated "all locks unlock circuit shorted to ground). code number was B1830-11. When he unplugged the connector everything worked fine. He cleaned it up and reassembled it with dielectric grease (per the instructions in the message). They also felt the door latch mechanism was binding so I had them change it also (Possibly why I could not unlock it with the key).


Time will tell if the fix is good or not. I am going to look at the connector and probably put electrical tape all over it just as a precaution.


Hope this helps others.
 

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Good to know. Thanks for the info.
 

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If i can give you some advice,

Go to a place like Harbor Freight or Walmart to buy a Plastic Trim Tool set
https://www.walmart.com/ip/7PCS-Car-Dash-Moulding-Trim-Audio-GPS-Door-Panel-Open-Removal-Tool-Radio-Install/399784296?adid=22222222227092627278&gclid=EAIaIQobChMInJL8iPbT4gIVkP5kCh09LQDBEAQYBSABEgJXbvD_BwE&,selectedSellerId=2961&veh=sem&wl0=&wl1=g&wl10=113509951&wl11=online&wl12=399784296&wl13=&wl2=c&wl3=207544367014&wl4=pla-335321955027&wl5=9061213&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wmlspartner=wlpa&wmlspartner=wmtlabs

Set of these tools are what should be used for the door panels, bezel around the radio, engine compartment radiator cover & hood insulation removal & the inside door switches
They won't scratch the parts like a screwdriver would

When you are removing the door panels, stick the tool behind the panel & pry outwards as you unscrew the plastic pins
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Couldn't you unlock the drivers door with the physical key?

No, the lock would not turn to open the door. It would turn to the lock position (but door was already locked) but not the unlock. Which is why I had them change the latch mechanism.
 

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That is what happens on occasion with the lock
It sometimes is a bent metal rod that goes to locking mechanism

Sometimes when you are removing the door panel, if you are not careful, you can bend that rod, which is also tied into the inside door handle rod



I would not want this guy working on my door panels

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aYN1ut-2g8E

If you ever had anything go wrong with your doors, watch this video below
It is long but covers everything

He is wrong about the mirror harness where it plugs into the door module
Each of those plugs are made differently, you can not plug anyone of them in the wrong place

ask me how i know




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XCKKIjwEsa0
 

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Hmmmm Makes me wonder if you could fiddle with that connector and make it unlock. Apply the right voltage with a power probe or something and trick the computer into unlocking the doors. (no I'm not trying this on my truck.
 

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A couple of weeks ago I got locked out of my truck. I could not unlock it with the FOB or the emergency key in the FOB. Had to get AAA to unlock it for me. It started with the drivers door lock acting funny It did not want to lock properly (had to hit the lock button (either on the FOB or on the door) several times before it would lock fully. It would go down a little each time but took several tries to get it locked). Next day it was fine and stayed good for a couple of weeks until yesterday then started acting up again.



Took it to the dealer this morning and luckily it messed up there so they saw what I was talking about.


Now here is the fix (it may save others from having to go to the dealer). They checked the star case file and found an engineering message about this. It seems that the connector for the tailgate lock (under the truck by the spare tire) has a tendency to get water in it and short out. My truck had a stored code that stated "all locks unlock circuit shorted to ground). code number was B1830-11. When he unplugged the connector everything worked fine. He cleaned it up and reassembled it with dielectric grease (per the instructions in the message). They also felt the door latch mechanism was binding so I had them change it also (Possibly why I could not unlock it with the key).


Time will tell if the fix is good or not. I am going to look at the connector and probably put electrical tape all over it just as a precaution.


Hope this helps others.

Thanks for the information.
My only suggestion is to use a spray on sealant rather than electrical tape. Battery sealant or Krylon Crystal Clear #1304 have worked well for me in the past. Electrical tape will not only gum up the connector and wiring, it will not seal as well as a spray on sealant.
 

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Fob issue

I had an issue with the FOB on my ‘16 Ram Express. It would intermittently lock or unlock when pressed. I thought that the battery might be low so I took it apart to get the number off the cell and noticed that there was a deposit buildup on circuit board. After cleaning that it worked again.
 
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