I believe the rear in your truck sits on top of the leaf springs . If so , you can install lowering blocks between the rear and the springs to lower it . Don't forget to check your pinion angle after you lower it . On the front , I don't think there is a cheap way to do it correctly . If it were my truck I would install drop spindles .
Hangers and shackles in the back and coils in the front are the cheapest route. The best route is 2" spindles and maybe a 1" coil along with the lowering leafs. When I can afford them, I'm springing for the spindles. Remember, you have to change out the lower ball joint.
I used 4" (actually lowered my truck 5.25") lowering leafs, 2" (actually lowered my truck 1.5") coils, and Nitro Drop 2 shocks from Belltech. I ordered from Stillen. They had the best prices and were easy to deal with.
You may get them to a height where the alignment can not be reset to an acceptable spec. Spindles dont affect the ability to align like a shorter spring. Most late model trucks can take a 2" drop spring w/o any serious consequences, maybe someone will chime in about your body style, there has to be a little room for a trim, but likly not very substantial. To get 4" I did spindles and springs.....sucks, but thats what it took.
the best way to go low up front is lower control arms and springs. Yes its a lil more than springs and spindles but it doe sthe job the right way. In the rear use shackles and hangers that can get u 4" in the rear. BTW how low do u wanna go?
I agree with Jeff. I have the DJM control arms, and Springs up front. The shackles in the rear. My truck sits low and still clears speed bumps. I have a 4'' Front and 6'' rear drop.
OK guys why do you think control arms are better than spindles? If you see the spindle design and the allowance for re-alignment you'll see the quality and engineering. I have zero complaints w/ my spindle/spring and flip combo!
When I lowered mine with leafs, the axle was on the bumpstops. I took mine off to cut them down and still haven't done it yet. It has only bottomed out once due to me going to fast down a side street that I knew had a dip in it. Cut your bumpstops down to about 1" or so and bolt them back on.
it bounces a little when i ride with it like that... would cutting the bump stops stop the bouncing? and would it lower more? lol i should start my own thread thing shouldnt i?
I meant to say that I took my bump stops off and haven't cut them to put them back on yet. When I first lowered the truck, I dropped the jack and the bump stops were sitting on the axle. I didn't even attempt to drive it like that since there was no suspension travel. Without the bump stops, the truck rides great and doesn't bounce any at all. My axle hit the frame once due to me going too fast down a side street with a dip in it. I've been really careful not to hit dips and driveway entrances too fast.
I don't know. If your axle is on the bump stops when the truck is sitting on the ground, I'd take the bump stops out to see where the axle goes. There is a little over 2.5" of suspension travel on my truck. I figure if I cut my bump stops down to about 1" tall, there will still be 2" of suspension travel once bolted on even with the way that the frame flanges downward.
If u have 2" of travel I would look into notching the frame cuz 2" of travel is nothing even if u try to avoid the dips. Eventually ur gonna miss one and bam a cracked axle on ur hands. Do ur homework on this and pics pics pics!!!!
Ahhh cut it! :smiley_thumbs_up: I notched my Ram and my Grand National...its just a car after all. My thinking is I think there's more value in a vehicle being useful to its limit or make it exactly as I want than limiting use to hope for value. Besides, if you ever need to sell a notched vehicle, its almost common place these days, it a part of "doing it right" in most peoples eyes.
I am not saying your opinion is wrong but if it can be built it can be rebuilt!
would c-notching the frame affect if in any bad way? i found some airbags that install on the side. thinking about putting in one on each side so it wont bottom out
Hey Jeff..wanted to ask your advice (seein your laid out ram in your avatar).. my truck is my daily driver (05 qc with 171k miles on her), and I also tow a boat sometimes. Oh, and I do go to the track a few times a year. I currently run a 4/6 drop with the McGaughy's deluxe kit with C notch, X-metal drop coil trimmed, stock shackles, bag assists. I've been runnin 17's (275/60's) for the most part but am thinkin of doin 20's/22's on the street. I don't really want to lay frame but I do like how some trucks get low when aired out... I was thinkin of doin Air Ride technologies all the way around (with a 7 gal tank)... can you throw some suggestions out on how to accomplish this?
my rims a 22's and i can lay frame on 4's but my wheel wells are cut out. air ride is a great company BTW what type of track ie drag or circle. if u still want to run the track then the air ride kit is gonna be the best bet cuz they have setups that they put in cars and trucks in place of the struts. if u do that u wont lay frame but u will get plenty low. These kits also come with new notches so make sure that ur notch is big enough and that will save u some time and work. Most of the kits at full extention will put u at 3" lower than stock so u would be higher than u r now if u want. my advice is buy the kit the ratio is 5 gallan tank for every 1/2 hp pump. now if u upgrade to the 7 gallan make sure it has extra ports and u can run a train horn off ur suspension setup which is what i did but make sure to upgrade ur pump though!!! pics lots and lots of pics
hey im new i am lookin to drop my 94 ram. whats a cheap way to do it i thought i seen van spindles or some trick. im usually a gm guy bought my first dodge toy
Recently just did my rear end leaf spring flip kit 6 inch drop after installing take it for a test drive and it was really bouncy/vibrating . My driveshaft looks straight and everything went on smooth. Any ideas what I can do from rear end from bouncing / vibrating?
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