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I have a 2 in 2 out magnaflow on my 95, 5.2 L, no cat converter. my head pipes are connected to 2" pipes which are clamped with stainless band clamps. (tight clearances to work with, there, the band clamps are perfect there) These end at approx the front end of the bed which is where the magnaflow begins,welded to the pipes with outershield mig wire. the tailpipes are also 2",welded to the muffler, they reach to beneath the rear bumper.Hangers are on the tailpipes, aft of the axle, and around the magnaflow, this truck is a standard cab, shortbed. An extended cab, or longbed truck would require a couple more hangers, I would think. The muffler is the "crossover, so to speak" and it is mounted with the 'oval' top and bottom. It sounds quite gentlemanly, until the engine is working hard, at 54 Yrs, I'm not much into noisy pipes, however this truck sings... , and only when I want it to. My other truck has a std cab shortbed exhaust system off a factory hemi truck from the cat back, with the 3" pipes, and I'm quite happy with it, as well, sounds quite like my old roadrunner 440, and it simply sounds quiet, but mighty when you want it to, it has original hemi mufflers, too...I'm not much on side exits, it seems someone invariably steps on them and twists them, or they catch on something and crunch shut, when you're backing up. My 2 cents, someone else will have other ideas, I've never owned a flowmaster, no particular reason. Use aluminized pipe or better, and don't go big, they rot out in the UK, too much condensation, from the damp air, I had duals on a Chev there, 89-91, they rotted right off. They have to get good and hot, to lose the acids from combustion, I guess.
 

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A little further info, there Clive, the pipe tha t has to cross over to the other side, for symmetry, is bent immediately aft of the rear axle, and I do not carry a spare tire beneath the truck, I would suggest making a carrier behind the driver, connecting to the bottom of the bed and the side of the bed, anchoring the tire to it via allthread, thru a lugnut hole, and fabricating a wingnut to secure it, and passing a padlock thru the wingnut and another lugnut hole on the spare, IF you carry a spare, I think you probably do, due to MOT. I would be very curious as to what you're paying for a disc, these days, it was 100 quid a year when I was there, ( a pint of bitter was 98 p as well!!) Watch for rust on your sills, the 180 degree bend at the bottom of your doors, and around the tops of your rear wheelwells, if you can, get the seam sealer foam out of those areas, they are built in rust creators, your rear bumper 2 feet either side of center, bottom half, is rust prone, as well... Brake lines are prone to rust out, as well, the first one to go is generally the one hidden behind the petrol tank, you can simply shove a new one behind there, and connect to the tee at the aft end of the tank, and connect the front end somewhere around the left floorboard, the line seldom corrodes there, and you can double flare there, and insert a coupling union. The front brake lines rust out too, but they are at least, visible for inspection. The secondary catch for the bonnet MUST return when released, (most don't, unless lubed regularly,) use grease, it sticks around for awhile. If it doesn't return under spring pressure, your bonnet WILL eventually fly open, destroying the hinges, the hood, and in all likelyhood, the windscreen, and totally ruining your day.
 
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