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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I've been gone for a while... Bought a motorcycle and started a new job, but I've got some plans for the Ram this summer, so I'll be back. :smileup:

I bought this Manual to Power Window Conversion Kit off of Amazon, as well as all the tools to install it, like 3 months after I got the truck back in 2014. Actually my first post on this forum was about this exact topic. Seemed like a big job to install, and I really prefer a crank window versus a universal power one, so I never did it. Until now. In a compromise, I only installed the passenger side, because that's really the only side you need. :LOL:

As much as I trust my handiwork, I don't trust this kit to last for the life of the truck. Everything I've done is 100% reversible, and could realistically switch back to a manual window in about 2 hours.

Nevertheless, here's some pics.

Started off with an old 115v socket dash piece that I had lying around, which turned out to be a perfect fit for the dual switch panel.




Here the switch is installed. This was way more work to do now that I have a console. Figure this was the best spot to reach from both seats.




Here's what the inside of the door looks like, if you're curious.




Here it is installed. First time seeing why the kit was only $50.




How she goes around the gear.




Here's a little video of everything buttoned up and finished. Wired everything to one of the 12V battery sockets, so that it works even when the truck is off. She's a little weak going up, but what can you do. And yeah its wired to the wrong switch. I'm too lazy to fix it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zQilMK5130o&feature=youtu.be
 

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Thanks for sharing your project :smileup:
 

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Looks cool, I read that the passenger window is slower because the window track doesn't get worked as much and hardens. Maybe look at trying to adjust it or clean it a bit?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Looks cool, I read that the passenger window is slower because the window track doesn't get worked as much and hardens. Maybe look at trying to adjust it or clean it a bit?
Good idea. I think it's fairly clean, and I'm not sure if/how you can adjust it, but I'll give it another look. I thought about adding a couple drops of oil to the track to help it a bit, but I don't really have anything that I think would help it and not go everywhere.
 

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There is also this method
A whole lot more on the cheap side, but not as much ''practical''
http://1funny.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/*******-power-windows.jpg
 

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2013 RAM Laramie Crew Cab
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Looks good. I didn't know trucks still came with manual windows.
 

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Hey there, I apologize for commenting on an old post. I have a 2017 1500 tradesman 2 door with a blank where your power inverter was. Can you tell me, did you replace it completely with an aftermarket switch kit? I am curious if you dremeled out space for the switches? Again I am sorry, but I am really stuck, I have the SPAL motors mounted and they work great touched to a battery. I just went through a divorce and I have no money to pay an expert. I would gladly appreciate any advice you can give me. Thank you in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hey there, I apologize for commenting on an old post. I have a 2017 1500 tradesman 2 door with a blank where your power inverter was. Can you tell me, did you replace it completely with an aftermarket switch kit? I am curious if you dremeled out space for the switches? Again I am sorry, but I am really stuck, I have the SPAL motors mounted and they work great touched to a battery. I just went through a divorce and I have no money to pay an expert. I would gladly appreciate any advice you can give me. Thank you in advance.
If you are asking about just the insert, yeah the 120v plug in the dash insert came out of another truck that came with the center console swap I did. I only used that one because I did not want to cut up my original dash insert because if I ever sold the truck I would revert it all back to stock, which I did last summer. I believe I still had to trim the 120v insert to fit the switches.

You should have no issue trimming the normal dash insert to fit the switches. Just that if you ever wanted to revert back to stock you would have to buy another insert.

Also, the plug in the dash is just a plug, I believe the actual 120v inverter is under the passenger sear.

If you are asking where I got power from, I too did not have a 120v plug in the truck. When you do the center console swap you end up with 2 extra 12v's under the dash with nowhere to go, so I used one of the extras and create my own plug. Since your truck wont have that, splice into one of the existing 12v's in the dash and run some speaker wire to the switch.

Just be careful, some of the 12v's are hot all the time and some are on key. Depends what you want. Safer to go to the on key 12v, but I went to one that was on all the time for more convenience.

Good luck
 

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All that you have to do to install a switch, is to remove the whole panel that surrounds the radio & climate control knobs
There are 2 screws above the radio in the sunglass holder
after you remove them, take a plastic trim tool or a screwdriver with tape wrapped around it, so that you don't mar the plastic. Work the tool around the outer edges of the panel to unfasten it.
I will post a video below.

Once the panel is away from the dashboard a bit, disconnect the plugs, so that you can remove that panel completely.
Once that is done, look at the back of the panel & you will see how to remove the right side pocket from the panel.
Once that panel is out, you can install a switch of your choosing.

The cigarette lighter that is below the panel is 12 volt DC
You can tap into the lighter wires to get power for the switch

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vX35_c8tWGU
 

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If you are asking about just the insert, yeah the 120v plug in the dash insert came out of another truck that came with the center console swap I did. I only used that one because I did not want to cut up my original dash insert because if I ever sold the truck I would revert it all back to stock, which I did last summer. I believe I still had to trim the 120v insert to fit the switches.

You should have no issue trimming the normal dash insert to fit the switches. Just that if you ever wanted to revert back to stock you would have to buy another insert.

Also, the plug in the dash is just a plug, I believe the actual 120v inverter is under the passenger sear.

If you are asking where I got power from, I too did not have a 120v plug in the truck. When you do the center console swap you end up with 2 extra 12v's under the dash with nowhere to go, so I used one of the extras and create my own plug. Since your truck wont have that, splice into one of the existing 12v's in the dash and run some speaker wire to the switch.

Just be careful, some of the 12v's are hot all the time and some are on key. Depends what you want. Safer to go to the on key 12v, but I went to one that was on all the time for more convenience.

Good luck
Thanks a lot for the tip. Works great!!!
 
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