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1,084 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yeah I couldn't do the Kicker or Alpine thing, so let's get stupid shall we?

This is part 1, part 2 in a little while.

They don't fit, right? But if you look, it's not the depth that's stopping them from fitting it's the diameter of the magnet.

Look here:

That's the sumbich stopping them from fitting.

So they "fit" like this

Yeah it's a little deeper but you'll see in a minute that it's not a depth problem it's that plastic piece.

Here's something you don't see on every 6x9 coaxial: there's a 2 way crossover on it. Not just a cap for the tweeter, there's a choke coil for the woofer too - and the tweeter's wire goes up the middle of the magnet which is going to come in handy later.

I trimmed that plastic dealie at the bottom with a Dremel - oh, and by the way it's fiber impregnated resin so

wear eye and breathing protection. i cannot stress this enough.
For real, if you want to hack into that stuff wear eye protection that's good and a good breather mask not just those 99 cent ones that don't fit. You need to be rocking out a long time in the future not getting eyeball cancer or whatever.

OK enough safety - also I put a bunch of sound deadener in the door because this is the time to do that.

It's like a shiny chrome toilet seat.

Now for the fun part - surgery on the speakers. Who says coaxials can't be components?

First I cut off the capacitor

I had to cut it off here too because that wire has to disappear down that hole.

Now for that satisfying pop noise...

And there it is.

A long time ago, MTX tweeters threaded into the middle of the magnet, so you could just unscrew the whole tweeter assembly and then make yourself a sweet bullet shaped phase plug. They don't do that anymore. Do not try to unscrew your tweeter post thing, you'll just end up denting your voice coil former and probably needing stitches when the plastic shatters in your hand. Just leave the tweeter pod there, it won't affect anything. You could install a LED light in it or something if you want to get silly.

Oh look daylight... that's gonna whistle.

But I have more of this sound deadening stuff!

Just jam it down there and smash it in really well with the butt of a screwdriver...

And a bit on the back too... "i like a belt with my suspenders."

And.. unceremoniously just install the darn thing.

Important: reuse your oem screws but put washers between the screw head and the front of the speaker. Trust me on this.

Since I'm only allowed to link 16 images and I linked 17, I was naughty I guess. So here is just a text link to the last one. Note that the window is all the way down (you can see my dust mask draped over the door) - no problems at all with depth clearance.
Tune in later this week for the chilling conclusion, featuring "what about that tweeter dude?" and "so like did you solder the capacitor back on there or what?" and other equally bland topics.



1,482 Posts
Why not just buy a set of 6x9 components, a dedicated 6x9 midbass with separate crossover and tweet?

1,084 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·

1,084 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
And now the chilling conclusion:

Earlier I cut off the 4.7uF capacitor that guards the tweeter on the MTX coaxials, because that was necessary to thread the tweeter wires out of the magnet.

At this point I could solder it back in place, inline between the speaker lead and the tweeter...

But a first order crossover is 6dB per octave and that means the actual crossover frequency is around 8500hz .

(by the way, the factory tweeters in the base audio system for this truck are 8 ohm, use a 2.2uF capacitor and that puts the crossover frequency around 9khz)

I had a set of ancient Kenwood component crossovers in a drawer, 2nd order 12dB/octave and 3khz (with polyfuse!) - and no low pass filter which is fine because the woofers already have low pass filters on them. This is going to work out well, at worst I'd have to knock down the 5khz octave but probably not at all.

At this point, somebody's gearing up to clown me for messing with carefully engineered equipment... and I should disclose that I'm an audio systems engineer professionally - usually I have the luxury of spending someone else's money for exactly the right parts and flawless appearance. Today, I have about $30 in this set of speakers and don't plan on spending any more. :gy:

Now I have a pair of loose tweeters with no mounting hardware, I don't want to hack up my truck or do anything that's not reversible - so how do I mount loose tweeters securely without touching the truck itself?

Easy, I make brackets.


How to attach the tweeters to the bracket? Rope of course!

I reused the connector on the factory tweeter, so I can just click these monstrosities in and then if I ever care enough to spend real money on an engineered upgrade (probably never) it's all reversible other than the woofer magnet clearancing in the doors.

Cheap, works and pretty - pick two. :LOL:

These hide behind grilles so I chose cheap and works.

And there it is in its natural environment.

Repeat on both sides, tie up the crossovers where they can't make problems in the future and commence rocking out.

Total investment:
MTX 6x9 speakers from ebay outlet: $24.95
2 sheets of Noico sound deadener: leftover but value around $10
8 6mm washers: 50 cents
Some hot glue, old rope, solder, etc $1
Optional inclusion of new crossovers from a junk drawer: $0

Results: well sound is subjective isn't it? I call it a massive upgrade for a very minor cost. :smiley_thumbs_up:
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