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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i have an 05 4.7L i just replaced both head gaskets on it and when i put it all back together in ran fine. it started right up the first couple turns and idled just fine and it reved through the rpms fine too. as i went to go drive it i didnt get a 1/2 mile from the farm and it wouldnt go above 2000 rpms and then it just died. it would crank but it wont start. we pulled it back and i looked on my programmer and it said i had a crankshaft position sensor code and a camshaft position code. i changed the crankshaft sensor with no luck. i cleared the codes and now they wont come back it is just saying that i have an EGR code but i had that before and it run just fine. after trying to start it over and over i have found out that if i hold the gas pedal to the floor it will spit and sputter but ONLY on cylinders 2-4-6-8 it wont fire on the left side of the motor. i know this from my programmer i have a page that counts the missfires on each cylinder and the left side wont fire. i have already pulled the valve covers and the cams are still timed right it didnt jump timing. i am also getting fuel to the motor so that isnt a problem. i have just run out of ideas and i need this truck ASAP if you know what i could do to pin point the problem id appriciate it or know of anything else i could do

thanks
 

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I was thinking that the bolt could have broke free and the gear is possibly just spinning without turning the cam. The sproket will still be turning and appear to be in time.

Air, fuel, spark and compression.

Fuel rail is common, if you have it on one side, you have it on both.
Air intake is common and so is ignition control. if you have one whole bank that is not firing, then the only thing left is the cam...
 

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Check the connectors on the PCM. During the head gasket replacement, it is possible one may have come slightly dislodged. Pay particular attention to the Orange connector (C2).
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
ok i changed the camshaft sensor and checked all the connectors they are all plugged in good. still no luck i will be getting a new EGR valve tomorrow and will put it in after work and give that a try if not i will take the valve covers off again and double check the timing
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Update on the truck. I'm getting spark and fuel to all cylinders. The left side is now firing and all connections are good. If I hold the gas pedal to the floor and keep it there the truck will "start" and I have to keep the pedal on the floor. The trucks rpms are so low it sounds like a Harley idling then it will backfire and die. It only runs for about 10 seconds at a time. Plus I also have a new code its a P2314 ignition coil E I have no idea what it is any help?
 

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P2314 is complaining about 1 of the coils. I'd ignore it until the truck is running. It could be a false reading under the circumstances.

Am I reading this right? You have to hold the pedal to the floor even after it starts? And it still runs at a very low RPM?

By chance, did you verify that the crank/cam timing is still correct?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yes you are reading that right. And when I took the timing chains off I marked EVERYTHING and left the chains and sprokets how they came off when I set them to the side. So I don't think it is a timing issue unless it jumped a tooth on timing. Is that even possible?
 

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That's kinda it the direction I'm thinking. Since it fired up properly after repair and the problem manifested very quickly, it makes me wonder if the mechanical timing changed. :4-dontknow:

When did the repair, did you have the timing cover off and fully remove all 3 timing chains, or did you wedge the tensioners on the upper chains and pull the sprockets off the heads?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
well i got home from work and took both valve covers off to check timing. the timing is spot on. then the fun begins.... after the valve covers were off i tried to start it thats when i heard a tick comeing from the right side so i stopped and went to wiggle some rockers. a rocker on cylinder numbers 2&6 just fell off when i wiggled them. are the probable causes? stuck valve, bent valve, valve spring, or is it that post that is on the other end of the rocker? also do you know if these heads are non interference heads?
 

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Hope the video works I have to hold the gas pedal to the floor for it to start and run. Then it back fires and dies
So after it starts and is thumping (in the video), your holding the pedal to the floor the whole time?

I don't recall if they are interference engines....maybe superiorstyles knows he knows a lot about the 4.7L's. I'd figure out why the rockers were so loose, that alone could be the problem. If the rockers are too loose the valves won't open at the right time and can cause poor running or no running conditions. I had the valves adjusted too tight on a vehicle (just barely) and it wouldn't start since the valves weren't sealing (no compression). Your issue may be just the opposite where the valves are opening late (due to play from the loose rockers).
 

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After rereading your initial post I remembered you took the engine apart to do a head gasket then reassembled it and it ran ok for a short time. I would bet you overlooked something or adjusted the valves wrong or forgot a set screw (if there are any) when adjusting the valves...hydraulic lifters can be a PITA to get adjusted properly sometimes. Are you sure you let the lifters bleed down correctly when adjusting them? I would bet this is the problem and the rockers came loose in that short time due to something not 100% right with the valve adjustment....just my best guess...
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yes I held the gas pedal to the floor the whole time. And I didn't think you could adjust the valves on this motor. If you can how do you because I'm flustered on this whole thing.
 

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Yes I held the gas pedal to the floor the whole time. And I didn't think you could adjust the valves on this motor. If you can how do you because I'm flustered on this whole thing.
Wow that is weird that it ran like that with the pedal all the way down...

Man this is getting out of my comfort zone with OHC engines, I've done very little work with OHC's. I think, and am pretty sure, that the way you adjust the valves is to shim the underneath of the "lifters". They are not called lifters but you know what I mean (I think). The things that are on the other end of the "rockers" (I don't think they are called rockers either...). I believe you pull them out and shim them. I think you should PM member superiorstyles, he knows a lot about the 4.7L and OHC engines, my actual experience with OHC is very limited... I will say though that if you didn't adjust the valves this could certainly be the problem. How do the "rockers" attach, over a stud with a nut?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ok i will pm him. The rockers are held in just by the valve spring tension. Because one side is on the hydraulic tensioner then the other end is on the valve while the cam rides on the center of the rocker on top of a roller. If you seen a pic you would see what I mean
 
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