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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello Mr. Mcpherson, Ed1774, Thunderhorse, and whomever else might be able to assist...

As I've already mentioned in another thread, my Thuren Overland System packages arrived on Monday, but didn’t have time to attempt the install until Friday (today).

I drive a 2015 RAM 2500 Hemi(6.4), Full Crew with a 6.4 box.

I started with the Front Passenger axle, at 11:30AM, but couldn’t get anywhere because the dang axle won’t drop low enough to release the OEM spring.

I followed these instructions on Thuren's website:

1) I took the tire off and raised the axle real high and propped the elevated side with Jack stands (Frame only)


2) I remove the Track bar off the axle (because it’s going to be replaced anyway)


3) I removed the Stabilizer End Link, and finally,


4) I removed the OEM Shock absorber


5) I then slowly lowered the axle (and the elevated side was held by jack stands… on the FRAME, not the Radius Arm).Even with the floor jack completely out of the way, the axle won’t drop all the way down, so I can’t take the OEM Spring off... let alone put in the new one.

Did I miss something?

I really don’t want to have to take off the Pitman/Idler Arm, nor the Tie rod, because that will mess up my alignment.

Please help
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Wait, I just had a thought...

Am I supposed to lift the WHOLE front end up, and then prop the front frame up on jack stands, on both sides of the truck, instead of working one corner at a time? I think that would make a lot more sense.

My thought is that... after the whole front end is elevated, brace the whole axle with the floor jack, follow the Thuren instructions in removing the shocks, the stabilizer end links and track bar, on both sides, and then lower the whole axle as a unit.

I’ll give tha a shot.
 

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Correct. Lift entire front end. Jack stands under both side frame rails. Disconnect other items and it will drop plenty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you Loosewheel.

So, aside from the recommended disconnects of the Stabilizer Link Ends, Shocks and the Track Bar, what else needs to be disconnected? I mean, I can’t imagine those are the only things that holds the front axle up, right?

...then again, these beasts do have single axle, aided by the Radius Arm, so that might do it (otherwise the guys at Thuren would have identified other things)

Heading out to give it a try.
 

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For the front your on the right track. Just get the whole front lifted as high as you can, They will come out. On the rear you will have to remove the shock that attaches to the axle. Use a small ratchet strap to compress it and hold it in place for reinstall.
 

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As much as I wish I had a solid front axle (IFS is a PITA), I don't have much experience with them. Good to see you got the info you needed
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
80% there.

Lifting the whole front and dropping the whole axle did help drop the springs and allowed me to install the new ones. I was able to put everything else back together, EXCEPT for the new adjustable Track bar.

The description that came in the box stated it was already preset with the correct measurements for my truck (39 and 1/16th inches), but when I went to install it, it was about a 1/2 inch shy of the eye.

I took it off and measured the eye openings, and it did measure 39 and 1/16th inches, as specified, but still won’t match up with the wholes.

Any suggestions on that one?
 

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you will need to shove the chassis a bit side to side to line the hole up. If this
becomes difficult, a helper to turn the steering wheel a little each way will line the holes up. The trackbar will be
positioned with the grease zerk pointing down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Done. Slightly turning the steering wheel aligned the eyes and got it done.

Boy, it’s really scary to see the amount lateral shifts the front end has, without a securely fastened Track Bar. Man, if that bar happens to come undone while the vehicle is in motion... forgot about it!!!

Now, on to the rear coils.

This should be a whole heck of a lot easier. Correct me if I’m wrong or miss a step, but here’s my plan of attack:

1) Raise the WHOLE rear end, real high, and prop it on jack stands
2) Remove tires
3) Prop up the rear axle with a floor jack
4) Unbolt the rear Sway Bar end links, and Shocks
5) Unbolt the Tracktion Shock
6) Lower the rear axle
7) Replace the springs, and
8) reassemble averything in reverse order.

Seems straight thru, right?
 

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Sorry I'm late to the party and couldn't offer any advice but it appears you got it done. I'm sure the truck ride's so much better now and you have the satisfaction of doing it yourself. Let's see some pic's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thank you everyone for the great suggestions and advices. They were very helpful and saved me lots of time and frustrations.


Yes, my truck feels like it literally "glides" over cracks, potholes, unaligned pavements, and most road conditions that used to make my wife grunt and sigh. I now drive without the extra 800lbs of sand bags in my bed, and no longer have the little yellow "butt crack" light on my dashboard, for the rear tires set at 50lbs. I pumped them up to 75lbs and life is good.


I will admit though, it took me a day or two to get used to it. For starters, the new suspensions added the extra lift, and with it sitting higher than I was used to, plus the softer springs, the truck leans a little more than with the stock suspensions, especially when cornering at high speed, but easily remedied... don't take them turns too fast :smileup:.


Here are a couple of before and after pics. The two "Pre" pictures were shots of the truck, I took at the dealership, when I was looking to buy it... this past December, and the "Post" picture was taken yesterday.


I love this truck!!! ...even more now that I have a greater knowledge of its mechanical workings, and the dynamics of the engineering that went in it.
 

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