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2017 Ram Rebel 5.7L Flame Red
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Discussion Starter #1
Getting no heat to the floor vents. Just heat out of the defrost vents. Been doing some reading will this be a broken blend door I am looking at? If so do I have to rip the dash out to fix this in my 3rd gen for any of you that have had to do it.
 

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I did a lot of research on this when I was having HVAC door problems on my last Ram. No airflow to your feet is actually a symptom of mode door 2 failure. The blend door doesn't control airflow. It controls temperature. Mode door 1 controls whether the flow goes to the main vents or into the secondary part of the system. Once in the secondary part, mode door 2 controls whether the airflow goes up to the defrost or down to your feet. Failure of mode door 2 generally results in it falling down thereby stopping airflow to the floor. From my understanding mode door 2 is the most common failure and is also the most difficult to repair. Even HeaterTreater says the dash has to come out. According to them "most find it easier to wear two pairs of socks rather than repair it."

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but I hope this helps.
 

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Getting no heat to the floor vents. Just heat out of the defrost vents. Been doing some reading will this be a broken blend door I am looking at? If so do I have to rip the dash out to fix this in my 3rd gen for any of you that have had to do it.
I know this is the Ram Forums......however I had this same problem with a 2007 Chevy and the dealer was quoting thousands to repair it because they had to rip the dash apart. Turns out all these little Electric Motors are controlled buy their own little computer that is part of the HVAC System.

The fix was to find and remove any of the fuses that were sending power to the HVAC system for about one to two minutes. Then put the fuses back in.
Then get in the vehicle and turn the key to accesory but do not start the vehicle. Once that is done turn on the power to the fan and leave it for a couple of minutes and then you will hear all the motors do a reset. Then turn the key off. After a couple of minutes you can start and go as normal.

Even though my truck was a chevy, possibly try this procedure before hand as it may work unless you can physically see broken parts as all these systems are somewhat designed the same.

This worked for me and when I questioned the dealer about it they just looked at me with wide open eyes like I had just busted them for trying to rip me off. Needless to say I never dealt with them again after that.
 

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I have the same problem in my truck. I don't have the money to have it fixed so I just set it to the panel vents and point them down. It sucks and my feet get cold, but it's better than nothing. Maybe one day when I have some time I'll buy the parts and try to fix it myself.
 

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Shawn youre not alone. Mine went about a month ago. Like starquest I think its your mode 2 door as well. I just ordered the 4 door kit from heater treater and a heater core. The dealership wants 2g to fix it with 90% of that being labor.

If you get the doors you pull the steering column and dash evac the ac and can pull the heater box right out. I have some links to a few write ups on it and am planning on doing mine dec 20 and would be more than willing to document it for you if youd like
 

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2017 Ram Rebel 5.7L Flame Red
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Discussion Starter #8
That would be awesome if you could do that. I watched the video above and they were mentioning it would require drilling out spot welds and cutting metal to get access to it.
 

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That would be awesome if you could do that. I watched the video above and they were mentioning it would require drilling out spot welds and cutting metal to get access to it.
It depends on how you go about. The way they "recommend" and there claim to fame is fixing it without removing the dash. This way is nice being you dont have to evacuate your ac and remove the dash but it means you cut holes in your heater plenum box to get the doors out and fix the holes with metal tape.

That, in my own opinion, is a hack job fix. I'd rather take the time and pull the dash, which is like 14 bolts and a handful of screws and fix it right. When I get home from work I will populate this thread with the few links I found.

Edit: its worth mentioning that heater core doesnt have to be replaced but for $80 for the updated mopar heater core its worth it to me not have to potentially pull the dash again in the future.
 

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I found some links to a couple write up from other forums on it and I think one video that was worth a darn. Besides that I have a pdf manual for our trucks and it has the dash removal in the book which is a decent guide.

It would look if you can turn a screw driver and ratchet then you can handle it. Maybe buy a buddy a couple beers to help man handle the dash, and if you dont have ac gauges and a vacuum then most places, around here anyway, only charge about a bill to recharge ac
 

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chevy's have both electric/and vaccum actuators
dodge is strictly vaccum only
I wired my actuctor to stay with all airflow to the dash vents only,and it's been working like a champ for over a year since I fixed it.
there are four pins on my 1999 actuator box and a lever
the lever opens the vents that control the defrost or a/c dash vents
when you turn on either the a/c or defrost you hear a dorr slam one way or the other,this is controlled by the lever on the actuator,this is the one I wired open along with the correct 1 of 4 pins on the actuator for the vent airflow
 

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chevy's have both electric/and vaccum actuators
dodge is strictly vaccum only
I wired my actuctor to stay with all airflow to the dash vents only,and it's been working like a champ for over a year since I fixed it.
there are four pins on my 1999 actuator box and a lever
the lever opens the vents that control the defrost or a/c dash vents
when you turn on either the a/c or defrost you hear a dorr slam one way or the other,this is controlled by the lever on the actuator,this is the one I wired open along with the correct 1 of 4 pins on the actuator for the vent airflow
You are 100% correct but just in the wrong generation. On second gens everything you said is correct, My defrost in my 95 quit working and a few minutes chasing lines with a manual, a t fitting and the vents worked properly again.

On the 3rd gens that does not hold true. Each door is mated to a high torque dc actuator. The actuators dont have hard stops, instead they are hooked up the the pcm and when they swing either way, all the way open or closed respectively, the door maxes out and the computer learns these trends by the change is electrical signals. This is the reason for the high number of failures being the doors and axles are made out of plastic and crack over time to the high amount of torque put on them.

That is why heater treater uses all metal doors for there kits so it is a once and for all fix, the worst that can happen is a open gets suck trying to open and shears its teeth but every motor can easily be replaced from the outside with out removing the dash.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Looks like I may have lucked out. I purchased my truck used 3 years ago and I looks like I purchased the "Ultimate Wrap" extended warranty and heater doors are covered under this!! So this could be a huge PITA that I don't have deal with and I get the benefit of the additional warranty on a used vehicle I feel lucky and glad I got to use the warranty.
 

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So it was confirmed that this will be covered under the additional warranty I purchased!! So glad to have it taken care of. I hope to get into the shop next week and will update after the repair. Hoping that I don't end up with a squeaky dash I think that would be worse then cold feet.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Finally the heat is back on my feet!! I didn't realize how much I missed having heat to the floor until I had it back. Nice to have warm feet again.
 

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Had the same problem with my 07 ram. Just got it put back together. I had a 22 shell stuck in the door that caused it to break. I took the dash apart and replaced all the doors in the heater box with Blend Door USA doors. Have great air flow to the floor now. Took me 4-5 hrs to complete job.
 

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It looks like I will be doing this as well. I back flushed my heater core yesterday to get my heat back but I still need to address the issue of the broken defrost door.

I replaced the recirc door with a Blend Door USA part on my last truck and was able to do it without taking anything apart. Unfortunately, that will not be possible this time and I will have to remove the entire dash for this one. I currently only have one door that's bad but I ordered the entire set of aluminum doors. The bulk of the price is in the recirc and defrost doors so for the trouble, you may as well just replace the rest while you have it out. I have the dual zone system so some of the smaller doors are more prone to breaking.

I've done this a few times before so it's not that big of a deal. The last time I pulled my dash I think I had it down to under 2.5 hrs if you don't count the time to pull a vacuum on the AC and recharge it.
 
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