DODGE RAM FORUM banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
238 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am trying to figure out what to do next with my truck for next year :) lol i want to start now so that saving lol eventually i want to convert my 360 into a 408 stroker. I was looking into the crankshafts to do this and they are the same as a good high perf camshaft. I was just curious....what is better? cam or crank? Which would have the more horsepower gains with the mods that i have so far (headers, thermostat, dual cat back, supercoil, superchips, plug wires, k&n intake). Also, if i get a cam, when i go with the crankshaft will i have to replace the cam or is it going to be compatible, same with the programmer..is it going to mess anything up? also if i go with the cam is it going to effect my mpg? same ? but with the crankshaft? just curious...trying to start some research. lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
I am trying to figure out what to do next with my truck for next year :) lol i want to start now so that saving lol eventually i want to convert my 360 into a 408 stroker. I was looking into the crankshafts to do this and they are the same as a good high perf camshaft. I was just curious....what is better? cam or crank? Which would have the more horsepower gains with the mods that i have so far (headers, thermostat, dual cat back, supercoil, superchips, plug wires, k&n intake). Also, if i get a cam, when i go with the crankshaft will i have to replace the cam or is it going to be compatible, same with the programmer..is it going to mess anything up? also if i go with the cam is it going to effect my mpg? same ? but with the crankshaft? just curious...trying to start some research. lol
well the obvious choice would be to build a 408. but in your case i would stick with a cam that best matches the magnum heads. when you build the 408 you are going to essentially replace the entire rotating assembly. and by the time you do a fresh build your not going to want to use the factory topend, especially if the magnum heads are notorious for cracking between the bowls. the superchips programmer will only carry the tune so far, it barely does that on a mostly stock engine. as soon as you change the volumetric effieciency of the engine, its going to throw the computer off. the biggest problem with that is, the engine will run too lean at WOT. so basically any modifications that are done on the engine should be properly tuned, otherwise youd never see the full benefit of the mod. superchips is an ok plug and play unit, but it doesnt offer the capability of real tuning, like actually tweaking the pulse width of the injectors, adjusting timing tables, etc. if you could at least datalog with a wide-band O2, i can almost guarentee that the engine is running way to lean at WOT. so long story short, i guess the easiest way to pick up a few ponies is to get a good grind. comp cams has lots to offer if you give them the head flow numbers along with all the mods you have.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,710 Posts
If you're gonna do the stroker re-build right away, then don't get a cam until you're doing that, as 34 said, you're gonna want to get new heads when you do that anyway. If you want some gains now if you're planning to wait for the stroker kit, then comp cams or inertia motorsports has great cams and you can even call then and get a custom grind for your kind of driving.

For the tuning, I'd recommend a diablo predator and have it tuned properly by a shop.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
238 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
wow i didn't realize there was so much to converting it. I thought that it was just bolt up like the cam mostly is right? thanks for the info.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
wow i didn't realize there was so much to converting it. I thought that it was just bolt up like the cam mostly is right? thanks for the info.
not so much, stroking an engine needs time in blueprinting and planning. the biggest thing to consider is a shorter piston or rod, and then clearance between the rod and the skirt of the piston. the quench distance will have to be within spec as well. other things like, clearance between rod and the block and balancing, needs to be addressed. if you go thru all the trouble of building a stroker, why tune it with a generic programmer? and thats all they are, generic code. unless of course you know a shop with a dyno and reflash software like SCT, to dyno tune it after the install. Megasquirt has a nice piggyback system to tune the engine, and its user friendly. unless you have money to be dumping into the dyno shop, you will at least need to datalog to figure how the engine is running. none of those generic programmers have the ability to do this, not even the overpriced SCT software. either way its best to start with the ability to tune and datalog before performing any major modifications to the engine. HTH
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21,490 Posts
I would go ahead and start accumulating the parts for the stroker . If you buy the cam , then decide to build the stroker , more than likely that cam won't be used in the stroker .
 
G

·
You can't do a stroker one piece at a time.

The system has to work together and when you increase cylinder capacity (cubic inches) it requires a corresponding change to the lift and duration specs of the camshaft for it all to work properly and take advantage of the increased cubes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
238 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
yea... i think that i am just going to get a cam and "pimp" out what i have right now until i graduate college and get a real job lol now a cam, as long as i get one that goes in my engine, it is just "bolt on" right? just a matter of taking the old one out and putting the new one in?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
yea... i think that i am just going to get a cam and "pimp" out what i have right now until i graduate college and get a real job lol now a cam, as long as i get one that goes in my engine, it is just "bolt on" right? just a matter of taking the old one out and putting the new one in?
sure, depending on how aggressive of a cam you buy, you may need higher pressure valve springs. theres a few things you should consider first, what the cam bearings look like and if they need replaced; coil bind for the valve springs/valve float; valve retainer to guide clearance; valve train geometry; and maybe piston to valve clearance if the lift is high with long durations. i dont want to scare you, but ive had many bad experiences with bending pushrods, wiping cams and lifters, breaking springs and locks. i just want to make you aware of what to look for so you dont have to encounter these problems.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top