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Discussion Starter #1
Alright, started College again on Tuesday, so Silver decided to protest. :(

I'm having oil pressure issues that I feel the best way to describe them is by telling the circumstances..

I was idling into a parking spot and lost oil pressure. It startled me, but since it didn't happen again, I didn't think too much of it, though I didn't dismiss it completely.

Tuesday I was sitting at a stop light on my way home Tuesday night-- on the highway-- and ding, ding, ding, Check Gauges light on. NO oil pressure, it's pegged on the low end. I'm pretty sure my heart stopped for a moment, but that's a different story. I was looking around for a safe place to limp over to and check everything out, but it came back up again and and the light was green. I crossed the intersection. There's a hill on the other side, and about 3/4th's of the way up, ding ding ding, check gauges. No oil pressure. So I coasted down the hill and pulled over, shut 'er off. Waited awhile, until my breathing was normal again to check under the hood. Nothing seemed afoul, but it could use about 1/2 qt of oil. I put some in and went on my way.

That seemed to help, until about 20 miles down the road. Heading up to a stop sign, ding ding ding... Well, CRAP. I pulled over and checked everything again, nothing seemed amiss. If I revved the engine, the oil pressure would come up, then drop again. I had pulled over in my mechanic's parking lot, and lo and behold, he had been at the store. "What the hell'd you break now?" he wanted to know.

Well... I don't know what 'I' broke. We're trying the oil sending unit first-- as suggested by the mechanic, so we'll see what that does...

In the meantime, anyone else have any ideas?
I'd like to say I know everything about this engine, but I don't. But it is a goal of mine...

I already miss my truck and he's only been gone a couple hours...

Thanks in advance!
 

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oil sending unit (hopefully) ask your mechanic if he has a mechanical gauge he can hook up before you buy any parts so you can see the actual oil pressure after the engine is warmed up. What oil filter are you using? I would pull off the oil filter and cut it open(search youtube may good vids) to see if there is any thing besides dirty oil. you would only be out of the cost of an oil filter and a quart of oil if it didnt show anything when you cut it open.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
oil sending unit (hopefully) ask your mechanic if he has a mechanical gauge he can hook up before you buy any parts so you can see the actual oil pressure after the engine is warmed up. What oil filter are you using? I would pull off the oil filter and cut it open(search youtube may good vids) to see if there is any thing besides dirty oil. you would only be out of the cost of an oil filter and a quart of oil if it didnt show anything when you cut it open.
Thanks for the response!
No, Mechanic didn't have any way of checking the oil pressure w/out replacing the sending unit...

So, bought the $35ish dollar part (yay small-town prices...), and it's sitting in the driver's seat waiting to be installed.
I'll definitely look up the videos on cutting the filter. I believe Silver's running a FRAM filter currently. I was considering having the oil changed/ doing it myself, but the oil's not that old. Cutting the filter open never even occurred to me. Thanks!
 

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Any updates?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Any updates?
I've got Silver back after replacing the oil sending unit as of yesterday evening, but I have yet to pass judgement. The oil pressure fluctuates more than it used to still, though it doesn't drop. I'm pondering an oil change sooner than needed, as well as some seafoam.
I'll be able to give a more definitive answer in a few days, I guess.
 

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At a minimum, I would change the filter to NAPA (WIX) and top the oil off.

What oil are you using? Some oils will really cleanup sludge and move it around.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
At a minimum, I would change the filter to NAPA (WIX) and top the oil off.

What oil are you using? Some oils will really cleanup sludge and move it around.
I'll look into those. I've heard so much crap about all the filters, either they're the best or they suck. :wow:

I've always used Valvoline high mileage synthetic blend (5w-30 in Silver/4.7L) in our vehicles.
 

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Is there any knocking at startup?

Changing the filter is cheap and you will know if the Fram is the issue or not. However, I would change the filter and oil so I could look for any bearing material in the bottom of the oil pan.

I know Valvoline is good in diesels and is a good brand.
 

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Hello K. How many miles are on it? Over 100.000 5W-anything seems a little light.

I know I've said this before but I'll say it again. I'v got 240.000 on mine and because of it's age, I've gone all the way up to 20W-50.

If I were you I'd go to at LEAST a 10W-40 to take up the tolerance room in the lower end. I'd also consider a quart of Lucas' oil stabilizer. If the pressure switch solves the problem I'd seriously still increase the weight.

If you find the need to drop the pan (pretty simple on yours, no engine jacking etc...) it comes off relatively easily. The new gasket cost more than a Melling High Volume oil pump (around $100/$80 respectively).

The pump will force more oil into the lower journals and dramatically increase your oil pressure. Mine went up to 45 lbs at a warm idle.

This is something you could tackle yourself. Drop the starter (2 bolts) the oil and filter. Drop the pan and clean it, two bolts on the oil pump. Rinse repeat. LOL reverse the steps.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Is there any knocking at startup?

Changing the filter is cheap and you will know if the Fram is the issue or not. However, I would change the filter and oil so I could look for any bearing material in the bottom of the oil pan.

I know Valvoline is good in diesels and is a good brand.
It's always had a light tick, though the origin of the noise is disputed. I thought it was from a timing chain slap, mechanic swears its a lifter...

I actually have a Purolator PureOne or something in my supply cabinet..?

I had avoided the oil pan because of what I was told it would take to get to it (engine jacking). I won't lie, I know enough to be slightly dangerous, but I didn't know anything about this. Mechanic told me this...

I like the Valvoline, we use it (high mileage synthetic blend) in all of our trucks/vehicles.

Thanks RayK!

Hello K. How many miles are on it? Over 100.000 5W-anything seems a little light.

I know I've said this before but I'll say it again. I'v got 240.000 on mine and because of it's age, I've gone all the way up to 20W-50.

If I were you I'd go to at LEAST a 10W-40 to take up the tolerance room in the lower end. I'd also consider a quart of Lucas' oil stabilizer. If the pressure switch solves the problem I'd seriously still increase the weight.

If you find the need to drop the pan (pretty simple on yours, no engine jacking etc...) it comes off relatively easily. The new gasket cost more than a Melling High Volume oil pump (around $100/$80 respectively).

The pump will force more oil into the lower journals and dramatically increase your oil pressure. Mine went up to 45 lbs at a warm idle.

This is something you could tackle yourself. Drop the starter (2 bolts) the oil and filter. Drop the pan and clean it, two bolts on the oil pump. Rinse repeat. LOL reverse the steps.

172K miles on Silver.

I wondered about that, but was told multiple times to go with what it calls for in the manual/on the cap... I asked around, but good God, my mechanic thinks--literally-- that engine oil weights are a conspiracy (There's some things I simply nod and agree with. No point arguing...). That they're really not all different. Mechanic also wanted to do the Lucas, but I'd never heard of it, so we skipped that last time.

I need to clean out some sludge, then I'm pondering going full synthetic. It's just not something I can justify right now though.

There's another thing! I was told that I WOULD need to jack the engine to get to the oil filter, mechanic looked it up on ALLDATA (or whatever it's called...) and showed me the schematics or whatever you want to call them. It showed jacking the engine to get to the pan! :4-dontknow:

Thanks Drew!
 

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Purolator is a really good filter.

As Warlock said, with those miles going to a 10W-40 with the Lucas is a reasonable move.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Alldata is correct (the name) It also said it would take 5 1/2 hours for me to do the waterpump on a 08 Cadillac. What was I supposed to do with the other 4 hours?

Read the last post: http://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=43998

Seafoam Bad: http://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=43694

Tell the Mechanic that it's one hand minus 3 fingers...two wheel drive.
The only reason that seafoam bad link doesn't make me run out to the truck and try to figure out how to drop the oil pan to check for tensioner plastic is that Silvers symptoms are the opposite, oil pressure drops at idle.

I realize that the sludge 'could' be other things, but the condensation is visible in the oil fill tube. Some of this may stay due to the anatomy of the engine, as stated in that thread. But I want to make sure its clean before taking the plunge for more expensive synthetic oil. Not to say I won't drop the oil pan now I know I don't need to jack up the engine. I will.

Thanks Drew!
 

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The only reason that seafoam bad link doesn't make me run out to the truck and try to figure out how to drop the oil pan to check for tensioner plastic is that Silvers symptoms are the opposite, oil pressure drops at idle.

I realize that the sludge 'could' be other things, but the condensation is visible in the oil fill tube. Some of this may stay due to the anatomy of the engine, as stated in that thread. But I want to make sure its clean before taking the plunge for more expensive synthetic oil. Not to say I won't drop the oil pan now I know I don't need to jack up the engine. I will.

Thanks Drew!
Even dino Pennzoil will clean the engine. I wouldn't run synthetic myself unless your going extended oil changes.
 

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I've seen some ugly things below the intake manifold due to synthetic oil...OH GOD HOW COULD I FORGET!

Kelsey. I've seen some horrible intakes on these trucks in the intake valley. High mileage gunk. There's one here on the site from a few months back I'll have to try to find it.

Same situation as yours but a different resolution.

There was sooooooo much gunk under the intake that the oil just wasn't circulating and making it back down to the pan. Everything down there was fine. Do a search for second gen low oil pressure.
I'll see what I can find but the OP posted some pictures.

EDIT: It looks like back in March you noticed a lot of sludge on your oil cap. I think you were on the right track then and it may be under the intake...

What say you?
 

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I've seen some ugly things below the intake manifold due to synthetic oil...OH GOD HOW COULD I FORGET!

Kelsey. I've seen some horrible intakes on these trucks in the intake valley. High mileage gunk. There's one here on the site from a few months back I'll have to try to find it.

Same situation as yours but a different resolution.

There was sooooooo much gunk under the intake that the oil just wasn't circulating and making it back down to the pan. Everything down there was fine. Do a search for second gen low oil pressure.
I'll see what I can find but the OP posted some pictures.

EDIT: It looks like back in March you noticed a lot of sludge on your oil cap. I think you were on the right track then and it may be under the intake...

What say you?
Cavitation/poor oil drain usually happens at higher RPM when the oil pump is pumping more oil than what is draining back to the pan, so I dont think it explains her low pressure at idle when the engine is hot. An oil pressure test kit can be had for around $30isn if you shop around and give a better understanding of what is really going on like if there good oil pressure at idle when the engine is cold and drops dramatically when hot generally means bearing clearance issues. I not much for explaining things hope it made sense.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Even dino Pennzoil will clean the engine. I wouldn't run synthetic myself unless your going extended oil changes.
Might I ask why no to synthetic? Just heard myself that it has better detergents in it, some said it would help with sludge. :4-dontknow:
I'm not trying to argue, I just like knowing opinions and facts and weighing them. Thanks! :smileup:

I've seen some ugly things below the intake manifold due to synthetic oil...OH GOD HOW COULD I FORGET!

Kelsey. I've seen some horrible intakes on these trucks in the intake valley. High mileage gunk. There's one here on the site from a few months back I'll have to try to find it.

Same situation as yours but a different resolution.

There was sooooooo much gunk under the intake that the oil just wasn't circulating and making it back down to the pan. Everything down there was fine. Do a search for second gen low oil pressure.
I'll see what I can find but the OP posted some pictures.

EDIT: It looks like back in March you noticed a lot of sludge on your oil cap. I think you were on the right track then and it may be under the intake...

What say you?
Really interesting about the synthetic oil. Was under the impression synthetic would do better than conventional. Lovely about the sludge. :smiledown:

I couldn't find that post, I did look though.

Yes, I am still having sludge/emulsified water/condensation issues. That was why I wanted to drop the oil pan... but Mechanic said no way. I'll have to look into it again, perhaps myself.

I had to go back and read my old post about that. Thinking oil pan is next step though the sending unit seems to have solved that issue. *knock on wood*

EDIT: We've done a couple of oil flushes with tranny fluid (once adding 2.5 qts after draining some oil, and again with 5qts tranny after emptying oil)... would that have touched the sludge there at the intake manifold?

Cavitation/poor oil drain usually happens at higher RPM when the oil pump is pumping more oil than what is draining back to the pan, so I dont think it explains her low pressure at idle when the engine is hot. An oil pressure test kit can be had for around $30isn if you shop around and give a better understanding of what is really going on like if there good oil pressure at idle when the engine is cold and drops dramatically when hot generally means bearing clearance issues. I not much for explaining things hope it made sense.
The oil sending unit seems to have done it *knock on wood* but this is good info. Had to reread it once, but I understand.


Thanks!
 

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if there good oil pressure at idle when the engine is cold and drops dramatically when hot generally means bearing clearance issues.
Yes, good explanation.

Just my opinion, but a good Mobil 1 or Pennzoil synthetic will keep your engine clean. Not a fan of tranny fluid or other additives just because you don't want to wipe the bearings surfaces of oil and accelerate wear.

Glad to hear your issue seems to resolved.

I used to live 52 miles from work in the country and I had an oil sensor unit crack and was losing oil. Caught it in time to save the engine.
 
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