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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
okay opinions needed,
I have a 2013 1500 bighorn with quad halogens
So lets say I go ahead with protuninglab spyder headlights with the anti flickering relay and error code eliminator, and get them to toss 35w 6000k hids behind those crappy existing projectors.
Once i get them, bake them, crack those bad boys open peal out the crappy halos and upgrade the halos. I heard the original ones are dim and don't last at all.
last but not least fog lights! 35w 5000k xenon hids.

Questions..
is it worth getting protuninglab to retrofit the headlights to better hids, or should i order another set from xenon?
any suggestions on replacing the halos? I hear you can get brighter with a good led halo..
For the fog lights, i shouldn't need the code cancelling thing correct??
Thanks in advance!
 

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Well you shouldn't need to cracked them open to replace the halos. If you get the ccfl halo version they should be bright and work good. What you would want to open them up for is replacing the projector (not HID) to a Morimoto setup with Morimoto HID kit as well. Many advocate doing this as the projector lenses that come in the Spyder headlights aren't that great. Me personally, I would try a set of 35w HIDs in the Spyder headlights first and see how that goes for you. Lastly, no you don't need a anti flicker for fogs, they are direct plug n play.
 

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Well you shouldn't need to cracked them open to replace the halos. If you get the ccfl halo version they should be bright and work good. What you would want to open them up for is replacing the projector (not HID) to a Morimoto setup with Morimoto HID kit as well. Many advocate doing this as the projector lenses that come in the Spyder headlights aren't that great. Me personally, I would try a set of 35w HIDs in the Spyder headlights first and see how that goes for you. Lastly, no you don't need a anti flicker for fogs, they are direct plug n play.
You do have to open them up to replace the CCFL's, and they aren't that bright. I am considering replacing them with some TRS halos as well.

As for your anti-flicker comment, we do not need to get the relay harness or error code eliminator for the fogs? I am going to be placing an order for them today and want to make sure I am getting everything that I need.
 

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^^ I've read in other threads today that the fogs are not a part of the CANbus system....so no relays or harnesses needed.
 

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Awesome, thank you! I thought I had seen that as well, but just wanted to confirm prior to getting the HID's.
 

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I'd just take a weekend when you don't need your truck and open up your quad's and retro in some morimoto mini projector's and paint the bezels! They look WAYYYYY better than those ugly spyder headlights and outperform them by miles! Plus it would only cost you $300 -350 to retro your factory lights if you get the kit which includes the hid's and canbus harness

Just my 2 cents!
 

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I want to keep the stocks in case I screw up a set since this is my first retro attempt. I am going to be changing the Spyder projectors to the TRS retroquick mini H1, and might switch out the CCFL's for some XB LED halos.
 

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Interested in the same. Keep updating how the Spyder retrofit goes. I thought of doing the same.

As for fogs, I just installed HIDs in the fogs and no issues so far. It's just plug and play.
 

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I have a set of the XB LED Halo's waiting to be installed. They are extremely bright. I made a custom dimmer for them to actually tone it down a notch, but definitely brighter than the CCFLs....
 

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I have a set of the XB LED Halo's waiting to be installed. They are extremely bright. I made a custom dimmer for them to actually tone it down a notch, but definitely brighter than the CCFLs....
Interesting, I thought about doing something like that, but having them on full power during day, then at night dimmed a bit so they aren't so overpowering. Would you mind sharing how you did this?
 

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It is easy/Cheap. You essentially need a project box, a knob and a Rheostat from Radioshack, and an inline fuse (or however else you want to do a fuse/ tap into a fuse). Comes out to around $10 without the fuse.


Power from battery to fuse. Fuse to Rheostat (which acts as the dimmer). Rheostat to LED's.

Rheostat goes inside project box, knob attached to rheostat.

Pictures below from where I found it. He also has a write up somewhere but I didn't save the link to that.
BMW Forum
 

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Awesome, thank you!
 
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