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Hey guys, first time here so please don’t scold me lol. So as the title says I have quite a few issues and its been driving me crazy. I'm hoping that someone has had these issues and knows what’s going on. i will do my best to list all parts that have been replaced. I can’t find anything on what’s going as it removes all the main keywords I need. Sorry I know its long but wanted to give you as many details as I can. Truly in short version overheating at idle and super cold when driving. I was leaving work and I started my truck to let it idle for a while (force of habit). I started watching a video and about 25 min later I started to take off. I looked at my gauges (another habit) and noticed I’m pegged on the temp. I hauled to the gas station where I turn the truck off to let it cool. I bought extra coolant to be safe and only out about ½ a cup in the reservoir and it was at the max line. After 30 min or so I started the truck and temp was about 220. I started driving and within seconds of driving I was on the freeway and I watched as 30-40 seconds the temp went down steady….way down to dead cold(like you have turned on the truck the first time) and made it home safe. Now for about 2 years I have never seen the temp at normal (200) it’s always been dead cold. Engine is not hot nor is the rad cap, but upper hose is. The rad itself is WARM. I will ads that I have replaced BOTH temp sensors many times probably around 6. I thought maybe I got a bad batch, but I went to different stores got different brands and same thing. I also test the sensors with a multimeter and works good. No air in system bled it many times with tools for it and on an incline. Hopefully someone knows why this happens. I know the truck runs in open loop and is killing my mpg im getting around 6ish and at 80 miles round trip everyday its hurting. Now if I idle for about 10 min after driving and temp was dead cold it starts to climb in temp maybe 180ish. Only after 30 min or so idling that’s when it gets hot. I have checked the thermostat by taking it out and putting it on the stove works perfect. I do have a TINY TINY TINY crack the casting of my driver cylinder head. It doesn’t go into the jacket or anything it’s just the casting. Gauge on dash works fine I tested that as well. Used boiling water with thermometer and dash showed same time. The upper rad hose is pretty warm and can’t hold on too long but the lower hose feels like your garden hose. I opened my rad cap and found what looks like to be dirt on the inside of my rad. I’m going to include as many pics as I can. Have to go for a drive so I will show pics of every 10 min what the temp gauge does. I’m not exactly sure what it is but I know its not oil. When I touch it, it feels like dirt. I topped off the coolant and didn’t take any pics so ill have to find out a way to show you somehow. I do not have white smoke at all so im not burning coolant. Compression test was perfect and have not done a leak down yet. Since the truck is OBD I do not have a scan tool to tell me the temp the ECU is reading. I have done the DTC cheat code by turning the key 3 times and nothing. Every part of the cooling system has been replaced short of the block itself and the intake manifold. No coolant in oil either.

Please help me! Im in a fight with this truck and im losing.

183,000 miles
1995 ram 1500 std cab short bed 46RH
5.9 magnum no mods except exhaust

Parts that have been replaced in the past 1.5 year:

  • Radiator
  • Water pump
  • Dist cap and rotor
  • Plug wires
  • Spark plugs
  • IAC
  • TPS
  • Exhaust
  • Cat Converter
  • O2 sensor (only have 1 as I have OBD 1)
  • Upper and lower rad hoses
  • Rad cap x 5 (trying to figure out if it was the cap)
  • Thermostat x 4 (I have a fail safe now works perfect)
  • Coolant sensors x 6 ( just checked my maintenance history)
  • Thermostat housing
  • Suspension (wont include that list as it doesn’t have anything to do with this)
 

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Many years ago a co-worker of mine was quizzing me about a problem she was having with her computer printer. First question I asked her was if she was sure it was plugged in. In typical fashion, she went off on me about being sexist, yada yada, yada. About a week later, working with her again, she looked like she was about to pop, and she admitted she'd asked a mutual friend for help and eventually that question rolled around again, she bit his head off, but finally looked, and whatdayaknow, it wasn't plugged in. Point being, make sure you've ruled out the insanely simple stuff. Is the engine fan in good working order? Fan clutch making it pull a lotta air at low speed? Has it ever been changed for a new blade. An older LA style would push air if on a Magnum setup. If you give the fan a flick,does it just freewheel, or does it stop moving nearly instantly. It may need a new clutch if it spins easily/freewheels. When you did the water pump, are you sure it's not an earlier LA version? Either will bolt on. They turn in the opposite direction, but the pulleys interchange (stranger things have happened from the parts house). An LA pump on a Magnum would spin the wrong way. Does your heater get toasty? If not, I'd replace the heater control valve. The thermostat works, but it's not in backwards, is it?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Gen1dak - i forgot to put that the fan clutch was replaced with the original blade from the truck. The issue is while driving the truck never truly gets up to operating temp at all everything is cold. the clutch works fine as it kicks the screwdriver. all major parts such as water pump , rad , etc. were all replaced with OEM mopar parts with the correct part numbers. If i were in fact to have a LA waterpump it would instandly over heat except the engine is always cold. i tow my 26' travel trailer and sometimes in 50 degree weather i can get up to 160ish and others i can get up to 230. if im daily driving to work its always dead cold. I do not have a heater as the old one was plugged so i bypassed it to pass emissions and now i have a new one but havent installed it yet. Thermostat is spring down and my uncle who has his own shop for 30 years is stumped by this. It's only when i idle does the truck get warm. Summer here in Phoenix is brutal even dodge does factory testing here to tow in the summer on new trucks because of how hot it gets. Yet, even if its 115 out side it will MAYBE get up to 160-170. for the life of me i cant figure it out. About a year ago my uncle tested the ECU to show the gauge and ECU are reading the same temps. Now it the fan clutch was bad i would guess the truck would have overheated many times but it hasnt. in the summer i was able to idle with the ac on for hours and it would finally get to the middle but now onlt at idle does it over heat and driving dead cold.
 

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You have two (2) temp sensors, One is for the gauge and the other is for the pcm. Witch one are you replacing? Also when you put in a t stat drill a 1/8 hole in the body of it. This will allow air from getting trapped in. Some t stats have the air bleeder but most don't.
 

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Hmmmmmm. Only time I had an issue like that was the heater control valve on my '69 Charger way too many years ago. Gonna have to think on this.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I have replaced both of them. i know that one is on the upper portion of the intake manifold and one next to the thermostat housing. i have replaced both of them and i double checked which goes to which wire since one sensor is a single pin and the other is a 2 pin. can you clarify on the drilling a hole for the thermo housing? i know a lot of foreign cars have a bleeder valve and i have looked into how i could possibly have one installed. i couldn't ever find an aftermarket solution. The truck does smell hot after diving 20+ miles to work when i shut it down. im wondering if there is a hairline crack in the intake manifold. i have heard that alot of people have had issues with them and the heads.
 
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