DODGE RAM FORUM banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2013 ram 1500 4.7 flex fuel truck. I've changed the water pump, thermostat, thermostat housing, radiator, and fan clutch. Filled with coolant and distilled water bled air all the way out. And my truck over heats after driving short distances with the Ac on. It goes up to 250 most times and that chime noise starts in the truck. I've taken it to a dodge dealer and they couldn't figure out why it was still overheating as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
I also have a 2013 1500 with the 4.7 and sudden overheating issues. I posted this in another section and probably should have posted here instead. I bought my truck new and never had a problem with it running hot or warm. Driving home from work yesterday evening it overheated all at once about 2 miles from home. It's about a 30 mile drive. I pulled over when the warning went off. It got hot enough to puke out coolant so I shut it off and let it set for a few minutes. I drove another 1/2 mile or so and pulled over again and killed it. It was puking out more coolant. It was 256 to 258 degrees. I let it set until it cooled down to 220 degrees. I hauled ass the final mile and made it home. Have any of you had this happen? As I said, it has never gave any problems and did it all at once. I haven't had any coolant leaks either. I could guess a thermostat, clogged radiator (had that happen before), but I don't know. Just paid the damn thing off last month. I'm looking at changing the thermostat for one thing and topping off the coolant. I may need to flush it too. Any thoughts from any of you?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,960 Posts
Check the fan clutch. The fan clutch has a expansion module included, which makes variable fan speed possible. if this does not work, your fan is turning- but that's all. it does not blow.
If it's hot and your fan is not blowing, then this is very likely it.
If everything is ok, you might check, if the head gaskets are ok.
To make sure, take the thermostat out and drive it without thermostat (assuming, you did everything correct replacing everything). Drive- when it does it again, I would guess, one of the head gaskets. If the head gaskets are blown, hot exhaust gas gets into the water channel and gives the water the possibility to cook, because it has a air-pocket. the hot steam is actually hotter than cooking water and if it gets to the temperature sensor, it shows you actually the steam temperature and not the water temperature. the water it self can in the be for example below cooking temps, but around the cylinders and head, it's above. And when it starts cooking, the steam expands and gets pressured through hour cooling channels- when you open the lid, that's where it cooks over then, because it can't go nowhere else.
That's the easiest way, when you don't have a tester, which tests the co in the water.
The 4.7 is a very good engine- had it too. The only weak point is heat. once overheated, the likelihood of defective head gaskets due to deforming heads is huge.
if your head gasket is out- don't waste your time by only making one- or the one which is done- do both. and let someone machine the heads before you put them back on.
When you change the thermostat- always take one which opens little earlier- the engine runs cooler- might use little more gas, but it's more on the safe side.


Tried to explain it so untechnical as possible. so don't beat me and think I don't know nothing about it ;-)


Oh... forgot: GO TIGERS!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
So is there another brand of coolant I can use besides the Mopar brand? The manual says to use Mopar OAT coolant. I found some Zerex G-05 which is an HOAT coolant at Autozone, but it states it's good for Chrysler up to 2012. I don't mind buying the Mopar brand but I'll have to drive 50 miles to the nearest dealership to get it. I'm going to change the thermostat and flush the system. I'm also going to take the top hose loose from the water pump and run my digital scope camera in the pump and look at the impeller. I hope it's something as simple as a thermostat but not getting my hopes up. I'm usually not that lucky. Whatever it is, it happened all at once and while I was driving down the highway, not sitting still at idle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,960 Posts
You can use other brands or off brands- only has to meet Chrysler specifications- and it's the red one or the purple one. The green is for the old vehicles and the red they filled in the new ones- you can't mix both. The purple one is for both- the ones who get the green coolant and the ones getting the red. There are specifications for that.


I doubt you see the inside of your pump with an endoscope and at the same time be able to see, if the impeller is loose on the shaft.
If you think, there could be something with the pump, take it out- not that much of a job and has easy access.
did you check the fan clutch?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
On the coolant subject, I know the green is for older cars. I also know there is OAT and the newer HOAT. My manual says to use OAT but then I also read that beginning in 2013, they switched to HOAT. The coolant in mine is orange. It's my understanding the HOAT is purple. I'm going to flush the system so there's no danger of mixing the two. I have read of people using Peak Global Lifetime in place of the Mopar OAT but nobody around here has it. The Zerex G-05 is an HOAT coolant. Oh for the good old days of just choosing which brand to buy.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
32,560 Posts
Use the OAT Coolant, FCA made the change to OAT a few years ago

Do Not mix HOAT with OAT, it will plug up the whole cooling system

FCA came out with Technical Service Bulletin that states that only OAT should be used, except in a few vehicles

http://www.wk2jeeps.com/tsb/tsb_wk2_0700412a.pdf

some brands of coolant use different coloring, so if it is not MOPAR coolant, it may be a different color then is shown in the bulletin
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Yeah, I got it backwards. I know the OAT is the latest. Should have checked myself before actually posting. I guess that's why the Zerex G-05 cuts off Chrysler compatibility at 2012. I know not to mix it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Well I went to closest Chrysler dealership today and bought the Mopar coolant. $20 for 50/50 and $25 for the concentrate. Hopefully I can find the problem tomorrow.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
So I drained my cooling system Saturday and pulled the thermostat. The coolant was pretty clean and didn't have any trash or particles in it. Thermostat looked good, and warmed it with a little bottle propane torch and it opened up and then closed when it cooled off. So, I went ahead and put the new one in it along with a new housing. Since I had also bought a new water pump, I pulled the old one out. Nothing wrong with it either. I went ahead and installed the new one. I didn't replace the clutch. The original overheating issue happened while cruising down the road, not sitting at idle and I can't tell any difference in how it turns now and before. So went ahead and did a flush with some Prestone flush and distilled water. I drained and ran distilled water through it 3 times. I drained it by the lower radiator hose because the drain plug just would do much. I got 5 quarts out of it the first drain and only a gallon the next two times. Most of it came out of the block through the lower hose. Didn't get that much out of the radiator. It's been in the 40's all weekend so when I would fill it back up I would have to drive it down the road to get it warm enough for the thermostat to open. Didn't have any issues. Today, I poured the Mopar coolant in it. This evening I drove it to town and back, about 24 miles round trip. On the way home it started warming up. 210, 212, 215, and by the time I was nearly home it was 222 degrees and I shut it off. After letting it cool off, I removed the radiator cap and started it up and let it run for 30 minutes. I got a few air bubbles out but the temp never got over 199 and stayed at 197 mostly. Could it still have air in it or do I have a clogged radiator?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,779 Posts
The best way to burp a rad is to get the rad up. Having the front of the vehicle going up a sharp incline like a ditch with the motor at operating temp with the rad cap off. Get it nice and warm and then shut it off to cool down. Then start it up and get it back up to temp and let it run for a bit keeping the rad full and watching for any further air bubbles. After this put the rad cap on and fill the overflow up and make a reference as to how high a fill it is at and take for a hard drive to force the temp up and then take it home and park it for the night, hopefully with the front end a bit higher than the rear. Check the overflow in the morning to see if the level has changed.

One thing that wouldn't hurt is to put a new high quality rad cap on. If original yours would be 6 years old now and it is a cheap insurance policy for future issues with the temp.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
My concern right now is what caused it to overheat in the first place. If the thermostat and water pump were good, the only thing I know of now is a clogged radiator. I understand about the head gasket possibility if one is run hot, but would one just have went bad to begin with?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
The clutch seems to be fine. When cold, you can move it with your hand with some resistance. It doesn't freewheel. Besides, if your running warm cruising down the highway at 60 or 65, the fan isn't doing much anyway is it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,960 Posts
Yes, it does. it's not a small I4- it's a big V8 with lots of heat distribution, which needs to be cooled down. don't count on driving wind.
When the engine is hot, it should be very hard to turn, compared to cold.
I don't know, if you also have the electric auxillary fan- this fan usually comes on in stop and go, where the rpm is low and the main fan has not the speed to cool the engine down. if so, try to put 12V permanent on it and see, if the temperature still goes up. When it does, one of your head gaskets is likely shot.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
About this Discussion
15 Replies
5 Participants
guy65
DODGE RAM FORUM
We’re the ultimate Dodge RAM forum to talk about the RAM 1500, 2500 and 3500 including the Cummins powered models.
Full Forum Listing
Top