[Downunder dodge]

Just thought I would share with everyone why I was getting P0102 code ( low voltage maf sensor) and why my engine brake wouldn't work.
I have a 2010 Ram with 6.7 Cummins.
When we tested the MAF sensor, there are 3 wires that go in to it.
On mine I was getting 4.7V on the outside wire, 0V on the middle wire and the other wire is a earth wire. Everywhere I looked on the internet, people say you should be getting 4.6V-5V to the sensor. If your getting that, it should be working. Wrong, the 4.6V is the voltage coming from the ecu, which means the ecu is working. You should also be getting 12V on the centre wire which I wasn't. Also the same applies to the turbo actuator, where one wire had 4.5V, 0V, and an earth wire.
Long story short and many beers later I found that Fuse# 51 supplies power to the MAF sensor and also powers the turbo actuator. When I put a test light on Fuse#51, it had power and appeared to be working? It wasn't until I put a jump wire from another power source in to the fused side of fuse #51, that I got power to the sensors!! ( that was cause for another beer) So the problem was a "cold" solder joint under the fuse box, which wasn't allowing enough power, to power the system.
So now I had power to both the MAF sensor and power to the turbo actuator. The cel light went out but I still had no engine brake. Turned out the turbo actuator was stuffed, put on a new one and everything works!!!!
Hopefully this info helps a few people, because it was a big head ach to find this problem.

 

[Downunder dodge]

Sorry this went in to the wrong thread. Should have gone into 2010 thread

 

[GTyankee]

To many schooners ??

 

[RayK]

That's the kind of posting that makes the forum valuable to me. It's all the weird stuff that can happen and be a total PIA.

Thanks for posting!

 

[lopel]

Unable to find fuse # 51 for the Mass Air Flow Sensor

Just thought I would share with everyone why I was getting P0102 code ( low voltage maf sensor) and why my engine brake wouldn't work.
I have a 2010 Ram with 6.7 Cummins.
When we tested the MAF sensor, there are 3 wires that go in to it.
On mine I was getting 4.7V on the outside wire, 0V on the middle wire and the other wire is a earth wire. Everywhere I looked on the internet, people say you should be getting 4.6V-5V to the sensor. If your getting that, it should be working. Wrong, the 4.6V is the voltage coming from the ecu, which means the ecu is working. You should also be getting 12V on the centre wire which I wasn't. Also the same applies to the turbo actuator, where one wire had 4.5V, 0V, and an earth wire.
Long story short and many beers later I found that Fuse# 51 supplies power to the MAF sensor and also powers the turbo actuator. When I put a test light on Fuse#51, it had power and appeared to be working? It wasn't until I put a jump wire from another power source in to the fused side of fuse #51, that I got power to the sensors!! ( that was cause for another beer) So the problem was a "cold" solder joint under the fuse box, which wasn't allowing enough power, to power the system.
So now I had power to both the MAF sensor and power to the turbo actuator. The cel light went out but I still had no engine brake. Turned out the turbo actuator was stuffed, put on a new one and everything works!!!!
Hopefully this info helps a few people, because it was a big head ach to find this problem.

I have a 2011 Ram 3500 and I have the same problem with my Mass Air Flow Sensor (P0102) which I am unable to clear. I have the 4.6 volt on the first wire but no 12 volt on the middle wire. I am unable to find find fuse # 51. Please advice where this fuse is located. Thanks

 

[lopel]

I have a 2011 Ram 3500 and I have the same problem with my Mass Air Flow Sensor (P0102) which I am unable to clear. I have the 4.6 volt on the first wire but no 12 volt on the middle wire. I am unable to find find fuse # 51. Please advice where this fuse is located. Thanks

 

[Plwelder]

P0102 code on 2012

I am new to this forum and am hoping to get some useful insite on the problem I am having. I have lost the 12 volt power to the exhaust brake the egr valve and the mass airflow sensor. I know where the relay is but I don't know where it gets power from. In other posts people talk about the 31 or 51 fuse but mine don't have it?

 

[Smokey4DUB]

I had the same issue with my 2012 Cummins. I had low voltage to maf it didn’t have 12v to the middle wire. You need to get an add a circuit fuse jumper and run a quality high temp resistant wire to the maf. You have to snip the middle wire and connect new wire using butt connector. It will take a few Drive cycles for your exhaust brake to kick back in and your turbo to get the proper boost. It cleared the code right away but like I said took a few drives for it all to line out. I hope this helps I was messing and stressing with this forever.

 

[Hobbitwho]

I had the same issue with my 2012 Cummins. I had low voltage to maf it didn’t have 12v to the middle wire. You need to get an add a circuit fuse jumper and run a quality high temp resistant wire to the maf. You have to snip the middle wire and connect new wire using butt connector. It will take a few Drive cycles for your exhaust brake to kick back in and your turbo to get the proper boost. It cleared the code right away but like I said took a few drives for it all to line out. I hope this helps I was messing and stressing with this forever.

My MAF SENSOR has 4 wires... not the 3 wires that everyone is talking about. The MAF sensor is on the side of the Intake Horn and BOTH of the Center Wires have a weak 4.7v and nowhere can I find what voltage they should be and the 2 outer wires are Both Grounds..... I am assuming that putting 12v onto the correct wire will fix my issue but I do not know which leg to tap into or replace because it appears that the EGR/Turbo Brake and MAF are connected somehow. Does anyone have any additional information.

 

[Colton 2012 6.7]

Just thought I would share with everyone why I was getting P0102 code ( low voltage maf sensor) and why my engine brake wouldn't work.
I have a 2010 Ram with 6.7 Cummins.
When we tested the MAF sensor, there are 3 wires that go in to it.
On mine I was getting 4.7V on the outside wire, 0V on the middle wire and the other wire is a earth wire. Everywhere I looked on the internet, people say you should be getting 4.6V-5V to the sensor. If your getting that, it should be working. Wrong, the 4.6V is the voltage coming from the ecu, which means the ecu is working. You should also be getting 12V on the centre wire which I wasn't. Also the same applies to the turbo actuator, where one wire had 4.5V, 0V, and an earth wire.
Long story short and many beers later I found that Fuse# 51 supplies power to the MAF sensor and also powers the turbo actuator. When I put a test light on Fuse#51, it had power and appeared to be working? It wasn't until I put a jump wire from another power source in to the fused side of fuse #51, that I got power to the sensors!! ( that was cause for another beer) So the problem was a "cold" solder joint under the fuse box, which wasn't allowing enough power, to power the system.
So now I had power to both the MAF sensor and power to the turbo actuator. The cel light went out but I still had no engine brake. Turned out the turbo actuator was stuffed, put on a new one and everything works!!!!
Hopefully this info helps a few people, because it was a big head ach to find this problem.

Hey what do you consider fuse 51 I’m having this same problem as you thanks

 

[Colton 2012 6.7]

I had the same issue with my 2012 Cummins. I had low voltage to maf it didn’t have 12v to the middle wire. You need to get an add a circuit fuse jumper and run a quality high temp resistant wire to the maf. You have to snip the middle wire and connect new wire using butt connector. It will take a few Drive cycles for your exhaust brake to kick back in and your turbo to get the proper boost. It cleared the code right away but like I said took a few drives for it all to line out. I hope this helps I was messing and stressing with this forever.

Any photos?

 

[Deadly]

2011 2500, Exact same issue here too now . Low voltage to maf... photos?

 

[Deadly]

My MAF SENSOR has 4 wires... not the 3 wires that everyone is talking about. The MAF sensor is on the side of the Intake Horn and BOTH of the Center Wires have a weak 4.7v and nowhere can I find what voltage they should be and the 2 outer wires are Both Grounds..... I am assuming that putting 12v onto the correct wire will fix my issue but I do not know which leg to tap into or replace because it appears that the EGR/Turbo Brake and MAF are connected somehow. Does anyone have any additional information.

That is your AIR INTAKE TEMPERATURE SENSOR that has 4 and on the side, the MAF sensor is ontop of the tube.

 

[Jakecook1]

Hey what do you consider fuse 51 I’m having this same problem as you thanks

It’s actually m21 in the fuse box

2011 2500, Exact same issue here too now . Low voltage to maf... photos?

check your m21 fuse and see if it’s blown, if it is you probably have a short

 

[Deadly]

It’s actually m21 in the fuse box

check your m21 fuse and see if it’s blown, if it is you probably have a short

that fuse is good. Im thinking the ol TIPM is no good 🤦‍♂️ No 12v to any appropriate wire on that circuit. ( egr plug, or turbo actuator )

 

[DangDodge]

that fuse is good. Im thinking the ol TIPM is no good 🤦‍♂️ No 12v to any appropriate wire on that circuit. ( egr plug, or turbo actuator )

Deadly…I have the same problem and it’s driving me crazy….we put temp power to the map sensor and it turned out engine light but still no jake brake.

 

[Deadly]

Hey all, Sorry i should have came back with update but i forgot all about it!! It s the TIPM unfortunately Trace the wires from the MAF SENSOR, ( middle wire that no longer has the 12v ) and others in that circuit, - actuator, and temp too? ). Even tho its ONLY Throwing the p0102. There was a dead connection in TIPM . So after spending ALOT of time and money to confirm the suspiciousness, thats what it was! 100% better now . Turns out its a known issue with the 2010’s, 11’s, and 12’s! If anyone has any other questions ill gladly help shed my experience!

 

[2012limited6.7]

Hey all, Sorry i should have came back with update but i forgot all about it!! It s the TIPM unfortunately Trace the wires from the MAF SENSOR, ( middle wire that no longer has the 12v ) and others in that circuit, - actuator, and temp too? ). Even tho its ONLY Throwing the p0102. There was a dead connection in TIPM . So after spending ALOT of time and money to confirm the suspiciousness, thats what it was! 100% better now . Turns out its a known issue with the 2010’s, 11’s, and 12’s! If anyone has any other questions ill gladly help shed my experience!

So I just had the same problem and I fixed it by putting a slice connector to the mass air flow center wire and running to it to the battery. Is this correct. That was the Only way I could get it to act normal

 

[Deadly]

So I just had the same problem and I fixed it by putting a slice connector to the mass air flow center wire and running to it to the battery. Is this correct. That was the Only way I could get it to act normal

That is one way… but it still wont correct all the issues? Do you have an exhaust brake then?

 

[2012limited6.7]

That is one way… but it still wont correct all the issues? Do you have an exhaust brake then?

Yes everything works fine just did it today but the engine light is still on. Hoping that it goes away or I’ll pull the battery cables. Turbo and exhaust brake didn’t work before and now they do. It definitely rolls less coal now and has more power. If there’s a better way to fix it that would be great. All the forums said m51 fuse was the problem but I don’t have one and I’m not getting power to m21 fuse. I’m getting 4.7 on pin one and 12ish on pin two 0 on pin 3. Before I was getting 4.7 on one and 0 on two and 0 on 3.