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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, I need help .
So I rebuilt a hemi (WOOHOO)..... was a great project but now I'm at the (FUN) part . Chasing down codes and noises I didn't count on .

So I got this 2004 ram 1500 st crew cab rwd with the 5.7 hemi . Had a dropped valve seat so I decided to try a rebuild . I honed out cylinders and put in new pistons, rings , main bearings, rod bearings, lifters , timing chain and cover, water pump , drive belt and a set of refurbished heads . the cam was still in great shape so I polished and reused it. Crank was still in balance and within spec so also polished and reused. I replaced the cam and crank sensors . New spark plugs, obviously .

Here's the fun part ! I can start the truck 馃コ馃コ!!!
But I'm getting a code for my cam sensor.(P0344) and a significant tick that stays in time with the rpm's (gets faster as I step on the gas)
I've OHM tested the sensor (reads 4.47 I think it was) ill have to look again, but I do remember it was checking out with the manual lol. I also tested the plug , it also checked out. As for the tick , I've taken my rocker arms off and used a pushrod to move all the lifters in and make sure none were stuck. I would rotate the engine by hand , pushing all the lifter out , then push them in with the rod. So I know my lifters aren't stuck , I know my new cam sensor has resistance, and I know my sensor plug is good.....

SOOOOOO.... yeah, im stumped at this point . I tried to include as much info as possible, I hope someone can help me out here .
 

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Hopefully the new sensor were NGK/NTK brand. That's what Ma used and off brand don't always agree with our vehicles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hopefully the new sensor were NGK/NTK brand. That's what Ma used and off brand don't always agree with our vehicles.
Yeah , I was an aftermarket brand. I just feel like if it tests ok, it should work 馃し鈥嶁檪锔
 

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Yeah , I was an aftermarket brand. I just feel like if it tests ok, it should work 馃し鈥嶁檪锔
Been there done that with a Bosche O2 sensor. Did not work for my 08 2.7l. Put in a NTK/NGK brand and the engine was happy. Lesson learned. Plugs I go with the OE recommended ones as well and have not had issues. Seen other people who went away from OE to off brand that had issues and came back to OE and problems went away. Been doing home repairs for a long time and have come to the understanding that saving a dollar or two isn't always the best to do when you end up doing things twice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Been there done that with a Bosche O2 sensor. Did not work for my 08 2.7l. Put in a NTK/NGK brand and the engine was happy. Lesson learned. Plugs I go with the OE recommended ones as well and have not had issues. Seen other people who went away from OE to off brand that had issues and came back to OE and problems went away. Been doing home repairs for a long time and have come to the understanding that saving a dollar or two isn't always the best to do when you end up doing things twice.
Just out of curiosity , did you ohm test the o2 sensors before changing them back OE ? just seems odd to me for a sensor to fail if it has current. As far as I know its just a matter of voltage. But then again, electrical isn't my strong suit with automotive work.
 

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Just out of curiosity , did you ohm test the o2 sensors before changing them back OE ? just seems odd to me for a sensor to fail if it has current. As far as I know its just a matter of voltage. But then again, electrical isn't my strong suit with automotive work.

I did not ohm it out, but went with advice from other forums that said exactly what I told you. I put in the NTK/NGK sensor and the issue was gone and did not come back. Lesson learned. Some things you stick with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I did not ohm it out, but went with advice from other forums that said exactly what I told you. I put in the NTK/NGK sensor and the issue was gone and did not come back. Lesson learned. Some things you stick with.
I'm definitely going to try changing it out with an oe sensor, I just want to rule anything else out . I'd hate to just start throwing parts at the problem lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I did not ohm it out, but went with advice from other forums that said exactly what I told you. I put in the NTK/NGK sensor and the issue was gone and did not come back. Lesson learned. Some things you stick with.
Well , I swaped it out with a oem sensor straight from mopar , $45 after tax . Still getting the p0344 code and of course the tap that i can't pinpoint.
 

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鈥nd a significant tick that stays in time with the rpm's (gets faster as I step on the gas)
For a tick like this, start with least invasive steps. Don鈥檛 take off the valve covers again yet, take off the serpentine belt. Tick gone? Find the ticking spinner. Not gone? Run the engine and use a piece of tube (like from wrapping paper) to listen closely to the top and bottom area of each exhaust port to see if you have a bad gasket seal. If no luck there, use a mechanics stethoscope to listen to several points around each cylinder head to narrow down your search before opening her up again.
 

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It sounds like you did a good rebuild and you listed everything that you changed, but I didn't see the oil pump listed. In a old dodge truck that I had (72) I was going down the road and I heard all kind of noise. I looked and I had no oil pressure. Got the truck towed home and when I took off the intake manifold, I found chunks of metal laying on the cam. The metal came from the crank. So it got a little expensive, but I was able to do it myself. So I wouldn't over look that one little item. Good luck finding your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
It sounds like you did a good rebuild and you listed everything that you changed, but I didn't see the oil pump listed. In a old dodge truck that I had (72) I was going down the road and I heard all kind of noise. I looked and I had no oil pressure. Got the truck towed home and when I took off the intake manifold, I found chunks of metal laying on the cam. The metal came from the crank. So it got a little expensive, but I was able to do it myself. So I wouldn't over look that one little item. Good luck finding your problem.
Yes I did also change the oil pump. As far as I can tell from the Guage its got good oil pressure and the heads were soaked in oil when I removed the valve covers the last time.

For a tick like this, start with least invasive steps. Don鈥檛 take off the valve covers again yet, take off the serpentine belt. Tick gone? Find the ticking spinner. Not gone? Run the engine and use a piece of tube (like from wrapping paper) to listen closely to the top and bottom area of each exhaust port to see if you have a bad gasket seal. If no luck there, use a mechanics stethoscope to listen to several points around each cylinder head to narrow down your search before opening her up again.
Thanks , I'll try going through the steps you listed . Not sure the truck will run without the serpentine though, as the alternator wouldn't be spinning, but I'll give that a shot.
 

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It should run fine w/o alt as long as battery is strong, but can鈥檛 be run indefinitely like that because your water pump isn鈥檛 turning, so watch temp while doing it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
It should run fine w/o alt as long as battery is strong, but can鈥檛 be run indefinitely like that because your water pump isn鈥檛 turning, so watch temp while doing it.
Finally had a chance to take off the belt and start it. Tick is still there. I'll take some time today to see if I can't pin point its location, but it sounds like its coming from the bottom end .could just be the way it echoes in the engine bay , but ill see what I can find out. My p0344 code is gone, I guess I just needed to reset the computer after changing the sensor. Now I'm getting transmission codes p0700 ,731 . I put 5 quarts of atf in after changing the filters. It will slip in reverse and first until the engine warms up , then no more slipping. I was originally told that I could use any full synthetic atf , which I used valvoline full synthetic , but now reading through forums I see it specifically calls for atf+4 synthetic. Not sure how major the difference is , but might I need to change it ?
 

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You do want to change to ATF +4 , you may want to do this a couple or few times to flush whatever you put in it ,as it is now in the torque converter also.
 

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Definitely not the right stuff . Like I mentioned might want to change a few times in order to make sure torque converter gets fresh mopar approved fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well good news . Changed out the tranny fluid with atf+4, ran it around the block then changed it again . All codes are gone !! Now I've narrowed down the tap and it seems to be at the bottom end , center of the oil pan is where I hear it the loudest . I'd think if it was a rod bearing, the engine would shake like crazy, but it runs pretty smooth. My next suspicion is that the oil pan gasket may have been slightly bent causing a rod and or the crankshaft to tap on it. Any thoughts?
 
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