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Discussion Starter #1
I havent posted in a while.... Been goin through a rough time with my Vehicle.... My engine Threw a rod and then my Tranny went to $H1T:4-dontknow: so i just dropped a used 3.9L V6 and Tranny in my truck..... So now im back!!!!!! yay haha.... But i want to paint my truck Camo and im Curious if anybody has done it can give me any advice or even Pictures.......

How much did ya spend,What grit sandpaper did you use and how many cans of different color cans did you buy? Thanks and looking forward to your help... and i will post pics from start to finish...

if this is in the wrong place i Apologize and ask if a Mod can move it to the correct place......:smileup:
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Anybody have any suggestions? im looking to paint it like this but im unsure how to do it..... Any help would be great!!!!!!

 

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I really don't know man. I have some painting experience and could help you with prep, and proper methods, but I don't know how to do designs and such with multi color. The most I've done in that aspect is some stripes or something very clear cut and symmetrical.
 

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I've got a blazer m1009 in storage (that I've never seen yet), so I've come accross quite a bit of info on this. They even have "official" patterns.

Generally, the military will paint the entire vehicle a base color, usually "olive drab", and then spray on the camo colors. The great thing about this paint is that if you don't like it, it's easy to spray over. It is usually a flat paint.

here is a nice technique tutorial: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CCRmaQlVxiY
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks ive started on my truck already and i actually came across this video already and thats the technique im using...... i have a thread in exterior modifications that you can see my door panel that i did today.... I gotta get more paint so i can finish the other panel,the rims and all the black under the hood..... How many cans do you think i will need to actually complete just the exterior of my truck???
 

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It will take a lot of paint (depending on what kind of quality job you do). I painted my brothers motorcycle (two fenders and a tank) and used $150 worth of rattle can primer, base, and clear. It was a top notch job though, looked professional. Even today can't tell it's a rattle can job(2-3 years later). He took it to harley to have it dyno tuned and it got a lot of attention(more than the brand new nightsters they had parked right next to his).

If you are just going to spray one heavy coat of the colors and that's it, I'd say you're going to spray at least $50 to $100 worth of rattle paint. I'ts like $5-$10 a can.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thats not too bad..... Ill post pics in the other thread as i go along just got my grille and mirrors done and the airbox and fuse box now just gotta get my Shroud and the rest of the truck
 

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You might want to consider picking up a cheap syphon feed gun and pancake compressor from a place like Harbor Freight or Tractor Supply. Under $100 easy and not only will it save your index finger from constant pain, it will cover better, use less paint, and the compressor will come in handy for filling tires, etc. It won't be strong enough to run air tools but plenty for a paint gun. Then pick up a couple of cans of Rustoleum if you want to stay cheap and cut 3 to 1 with mineral spirits (3 parts paint, 1 part spirits). I've used this set up for several cars and bikes and it's paid for itself 10X over.

Pancake and cheap gun projects:

low-end auto paint from body shop supply



$25 per gallon Rust Stop from Ace Hardware



Left over paint from VW above:



More Ace Rust Stop:



Rustoleum:



More Rustoleum:

 

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I've even seen people roll paint that was thinned with mineral spirits, and they do several several several layers, and it actually comes out pretty good. They thin it so it flattens so you don't get brush and roller marks. But that's also why you need to do so many coats. LOTS of labor with this method.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
See ive never used a Gun so im not sure how to do it..... But i just orderd a set of HVLP Spray Guns from Harbor Freight and i was wondering if you could tell me what i would have to do to use them....... BTW did you clearcoat your Projects Snoop?
 

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Painting is not hard as long as you follow some simple steps. First, grab an inexpensive water trap for your compressor if you don't already have one - I paid like $5 from Tractor Supply for mine with a regulator. Probably not the best in the world but it works. Painting likes DRY air. Your gun will have instructions on what PSI to have the regulator set at. Make sure you pick up a bunch of paint strainers (paper funnels with screen in them) and a bundle of stirrers. Another thing to remember is your paint job is only as good as your prep. The more you massage the bodywork, the better the end result will be. If you have a garage, keep the door open so you don't get baked:). I don't and shoot mine outside on a warm, dry day after bug season is over. Trust me, insects LOVE fresh paint.

- Don't get your paint until the day you are painting and have them shake it really good before you leave the store (or if you get it at say Walmart, stir it really good, I use an old kitchen hand mixer).

- Wipe the entire thing down with a good degreaser\prep like PrepSol. I use shop rags because they don't give off lint.

- mix your paint one spray cup at a time, no exception. Paint starts to cure as soon as it hits the air so mixing a big batch is a big no-no. I use bunch of old margarine containers and some kitchen measuring cups from the dollar store. Use the strainers when pouring into the spray cup. Use a new strainer each time.

- Take your hand and put the pinky on the truck and the thumb on the spray nozzle of the gun. That is the distance you want to be from the truck at ALL TIMES. Spray from left to right, keeping that distance the entire time and the gun parallel to the truck surface. Start moving the gun a little before the panel you want to paint and then hit the trigger, reverse this at the end of the panel (let off the trigger at the edge of the panel but move your arm a little further). This keeps the paint even. Make the next pass in the other direction, overlapping the first one by about a third. The first coat you want to just be fogged on, not actually doing any real coverage. If it's a big section like the bed of a truck, WALK as you paint, don't stand in one place and swing your arm, you will get crappy quality. Once you have finished the panel you are on, move on to the next and work your way around the truck. By the time you get back to where you started, it's ready for the next coat (should be a little tacky). You can do the next coat(s) a little heavier until you are happy with the coverage. Remember, less is more. It's much easier to spray more paint on than to have to sand off runs later.

-clean the gun when done very well with thinner or spirits. A dirty gun is an unhappy gun.

This sounds harder than it really is. I recommend practicing on an old scrap of metal like a junk door or an old washing machine so you can get the hang of the process and play with the adjustments on the gun - one knob controls paint, one controls air and the nozzle can be rotated to fan either horizontally or vertically depending on the size and location of what you are painting. Too much air\not enough paint and it will go on 'dry' and be dull-looking. Too much paint, not enough air and it will spit and splatter and run.

I only use single stage paint - paint that doesn't need a clear coat and dries hard and shiny. Let the paint cure at least a day or two before taking it out on the road, paint dries as a 'skin' first and then from the inside out so it might seem 'dry' but is actually still kinda soft. This also depends on the paint. The Rustoleum stuff dries completely by morning, real auto paint takes a couple of days. Wait at least a few weeks before putting any wax on it.

The bluish bus we painted in a few hours. The Mustang was a couple of days affair because of the stripes and because black shows errors really well. The purple beetle was done in an hour.

Here's some before, during and after shots:





Keeping some Dodge content:) that's my son's Dakota pulling it:















 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for the Info man..... I should have my Spray guns 2mrrw and ill go pick up the strainers and everything after i get them.... I will Update You all with the truck With before During and after shots ...... BTW snoop all of em look awsome but That mustang looks Amazing IMO almost proffessional looking Thanks again for the info
 

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You can do it! It really isn't hard, you just need to take your time and follow the simple rules - Practice. Prep. Clean. Air vs Paint. Practice. Did I mention practice?:D. PRactice will really come in handy working with the off the shelf paints like Rustoleum since they don't have mixing instructions so you have to wing it. Cut the paint 3 to 1 (paint to thinner) and adjust from there. You will know if it's too thick as it won't spray. Too thin and it will run like crazy. Pick up a can of black to practice with, a quart will do nicely. You are doing flat camo, right? Flats are easier to paint with because they are more forgiving because they don't 'shine.' but a dry spray will still show up as well as runs so just keep the coats light and smooth. Pick your base color and do the whole thing with that, be it olive drab or desert sand, whatever. Then you can have fun with the patterns. Definitely keep us posted, especially with pics and reach out if you have any questions.

Oh, and it's yard sale season, keep an eye out for used guns, you can pick them up for $15 or less usually. I have 3. One for primer and it only gets used for primer. Then two for color in case I'm doing something with two different colors. The old siphon feed guns are still good so don't pass one up if you find on. The thing I like the most about my HVLP gun is the top paint cup as it uses all the paint instead of leaving a half inch in the bottom of the cup but that doesn't stop me from using the old style one regularly.
 

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Good info here! I like to think I am pretty good at painting for "self taught" but I definitely picked up a few tips from snoopy in this thread, thanks.

I wanted to add something I don't think you mentioned, when spraying the paint keep the gun perpendicular to the panel at all times and don't swing your arm in an arc, it'll cause uneven layering.

I don't know if that explains it well maybe snoopy can describe what I'm trying to say better...
 

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I wanted to add something I don't think you mentioned, when spraying the paint keep the gun perpendicular to the panel at all times and don't swing your arm in an arc, it'll cause uneven layering.
Exactly. Think of it as kinda like the Karate kid and Paint the Fence. Remember that part? He was doing it up and down but it's the same idea. Painting rewards consistency. It's natural to want to swing your arm left and right like you're spraying a tommy gun but what you really want is to keep the gun the same distance from the panel you are painting at all times and as snrusnak said, keep the gun STRAIGHT. If you swing your arm, the gun is further away from the panel at the ends and usually too close in the middle as well as at an angle. Another natural tendency is to bend your wrist at the start and end of the swing. Don't. It's really HARD not to, so don't get down on yourself if you do it at the start, that's why practice is important. I'll be honest, I COULD NOT GET IT when first started. Here's a Snoopy tip - pick up a cheap wrist brace from the first aid section of Walmart (mine right now has them in a bin with toothpaste and crap for .88). It will help keep your wrist locked. Another tip - before you practice with paint, practice with a cheap thinner (or one of those wholesale club jugs of alcohol) on a big piece of cardboard (don't use water unless you are going to use one of the new water-based paints). I like to get mine from the local appliance shop, refrigerator boxes are great for this. Work on getting it so the cardboard is evenly dark, it helps with technique. Plus, in about 20 minutes the cardboard has dried out and you can try again.

I am not an expert by any stretch of the imagination, self-taught as well. HP Books has a good book on painting and body work but a lot of those books really assume you have access to a spray booth, large compressor and bottomless checkbook. Dunno about you but that is definitely NOT my situation. I'm proof that a small compressor and a cheap gun can get decent results. I won't win World of Wheels any time soon but at 10 feet, who cares?

This is a good thread about rolling paint if you ever want to give it a try. I skipped it cuz even though you don't need a gun, the amount of work to get it looking really good is just more than I wanted to attempt.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=320572

Also, if you have an Ace Hardware around, their Rust Stop paint is not bad at all and you can get it custom tinted to just about any color under the sun. Last time I think I paid $25 for the gallon (purple VW). I found cutting it about 2-1 when the weather was about 75-80F worked well.

Also, don't strip the entire thing down to bare metal like I did with the 'Stang unless you REALLY have to. If you do that, you need to use an etching primer which can get a little costly. If you do need to strip paint, Citra-strip works great and is eco-friendly. You are still going to want to use gloves and a mask but it smells kinda good and washes off with water.

I forgot an important thing to mention. USE A MASK. At the bare minimum some of those paper ones will at least keep paint mist from out of your lungs but if you can swing a canister mask, that is better. Also, even if it's hot, where long sleeves but keep them tight against you with some rubber bands or masking tape. It SUCKS cleaning paint off your arms...
 

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if this is in the wrong place i Apologize and ask if a Mod can move it to the correct place......:smileup:
Where this has headed, maybe the mods can move it to the Body section...
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Sorry i havent been on to Update yall with how the truck is comin along.... My computer Crashed so i had to send it to Toshiba and i just got it back........

Anyway i have decided NOT to do a Camo Paintjob on my truck.... I have her al sanded down and have Most of the Body work done... now im waiting for my next paycheck so i can order me some paint and Supplies to Finish her up..... Here is What shes gonna look like when im done



im a big fan of that show and have been since i was little..... But i dont have the money or time to search for and restore a 1969 Dodge Charger so im just doing the next best thing haha Close Enough anyway..... Lemme know what ya thing
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Yeah im goin with the 01 Graphic on both doors and im gonna put a Rebel flag on the roof and its gonna say General Lee on the sides of the roof in the same Font and colors as on the General Lee in the Dukes of hazzard..... and im probly using a (Single Stage Paint... Probly gonna get some Ace Hardware Rust stop)
 
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