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Where and what could I get to upgrade my cam in my 1999 ram and will I need anything else to apply the cam like lifters? Also what kind of carb should I go with edlebrok or holly?
Performance cams?
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i thought the 5.2 was fuel injected?? Im not too familiar with your engine, but make sure youre springs and pushrods can handle the size and lift of the cam. Also it might be a good idea to get a timing chain and cam&crank sprockets in there too. Look to see if you can fit bigger rockers in there too, that should add a few more horses.
As for the a carb, id stay away from edelbrock.
As for the a carb, id stay away from edelbrock.
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Yeah that engine should be fuel injected. Or at least throttle body injected. You really should match the valve springs to the cam, and lifters and pushrods need to be looked at. He gave good advice above ^ you could go to a higher rocker ratio and look at the timing parts as well while you're in there.
The 5.2 hasn't had a throttle-body injector since the 1991 model year. The '99 is multi-point, aka, Magnum. You cannot, nor would you want to bolt a carb onto the stock intake manifold. Call or see websites of Competition Cams or Hughes Engines. They can set you up.
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Sry guys I meant throttle body.
Yes but what size lift should I get what modle I'm good with machanics but when it comes to upgraded parts I got no clue besides the little things oh and I meant throttle body I'm so used to my buddy's LA ram my bad but leme know what u think and for you guys that have done this modification what did u use and how do u like it thanks.
Yes but what size lift should I get what modle I'm good with machanics but when it comes to upgraded parts I got no clue besides the little things oh and I meant throttle body I'm so used to my buddy's LA ram my bad but leme know what u think and for you guys that have done this modification what did u use and how do u like it thanks.
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Oh and thanks for the advice I will look into them..also while I have ur attention can u give advice on your advice like wat size and brand push rods ect. Like I said I can fix anything on a vehicle I just don't know aftermarket stuff.
No point in changing rocker ratios if you're gonna get a cam. You're not going much more than .500 gross lift on a street cam. Check these TB's out.
http://www.bouchillonperformance.com/BPEthrottlebodies.asp
Any performance or heavy duty pushrod is fine. Their walls will be thicker to resist flex.
http://www.bouchillonperformance.com/BPEthrottlebodies.asp
Any performance or heavy duty pushrod is fine. Their walls will be thicker to resist flex.
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123 Posts
Ok so I'm putting out a link what do u think about this one and will I need to purchase anything else to run this or can I just drop it in my motor?
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-20-746-9
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-20-746-9
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I did some looking into putting a cam in my truck and might do it in the future. I filled out a form on comp cams website on the type of things I was looking for and specs on my engine, etc, and got a email back from one of their machinist on the specs on the cam, a pretty aggressive one from what I can tell, had a 4 degree advance. I could be wrong though on how aggressive that is, not a cam expert. and was also advised by multiple people to get a pair of headers to go along with the cam to help the engine breath. another guy also mentioned a spring upgrade. that same guy bores and machines magnum engine throttle bodies, basically makes them like a racing throttle body, I think stock is like 48 or 50 mm? anyhow he can bore em out to like 50-54 mm I think, one of the big ones is recommended by him for a engine with a other than stock cam. I can get you his email if your interested. Im ordering a tb from him soon. Hope I helped a little.
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I'd highly recommend a dual pattern cam (different lift and/or duration for intake vs exhaust valves). Most stock heads do not flow well, and even worse on the exhaust side. It would be helpful to get a cam with a little bit more lift and/or duration on the exhaust side. IMO duration is more critical than lift, most usually talk about lift but I would concentrate on the duration.
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that cam you showed will require new valvesprings according to their page, but then again so will most cams. Im not so sure on your engine, but on most engines, throttle bodies are a waste of money unless you port your intake manifold. And even then youre gonna need some serious power to take full advantage of that. Go for the rockers, they will definately help, and i dont understand why someone would say they make no sense on a aftermarket cam. Thats when they shine the most. :smileup:
You should really try to read up on how a camshaft works. The LSA (lobe seperation angle), is the distance from the very top of the intake lobe, to the very top of the exhaust lobe. The less lsa you have, the tighter the lobes are to each other and this will create overlap. This is when the intak and exhaust valve are opened at the same time causing the choppy idle sound cammed cars usually have. Generally, the more overlap you have, the more top end torque youre gonna see. Therefore, lower LSA=high rpm cam.
Cam timing is set by how the cam sits in position to the crank. The +2 or +4 is just what that means. The advance that has been grounded into the cam so it will not affect the lsa, even though they are somewhat related.
So lets say you have a cam with an lsa of 112* +2*
The lobe seperation angle is still 112*, but the ICL (intake center line) had been grounded for 110* and the ECL (exhaust center line) will be at 114*.
110+114=224
224/2=112* =LSA
Its kinda dificult to explain without pictures but i hope this helps a bit. Remember, there are always exceptions and such to what i posted.
If you can get a hold of someone who makes custom cams, give em a call. They will give you tons more info and will definately know theyre stuff. Some people from "off the shelf" cam companies might only be telling you stuff in order to sell.
Hopefully this helps
You should really try to read up on how a camshaft works. The LSA (lobe seperation angle), is the distance from the very top of the intake lobe, to the very top of the exhaust lobe. The less lsa you have, the tighter the lobes are to each other and this will create overlap. This is when the intak and exhaust valve are opened at the same time causing the choppy idle sound cammed cars usually have. Generally, the more overlap you have, the more top end torque youre gonna see. Therefore, lower LSA=high rpm cam.
Cam timing is set by how the cam sits in position to the crank. The +2 or +4 is just what that means. The advance that has been grounded into the cam so it will not affect the lsa, even though they are somewhat related.
So lets say you have a cam with an lsa of 112* +2*
The lobe seperation angle is still 112*, but the ICL (intake center line) had been grounded for 110* and the ECL (exhaust center line) will be at 114*.
110+114=224
224/2=112* =LSA
Its kinda dificult to explain without pictures but i hope this helps a bit. Remember, there are always exceptions and such to what i posted.
If you can get a hold of someone who makes custom cams, give em a call. They will give you tons more info and will definately know theyre stuff. Some people from "off the shelf" cam companies might only be telling you stuff in order to sell.
Hopefully this helps
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123 Posts
Thx zlow28 I want to put in a stroker kit first how would that effect what cam I would buy and do u know much about the magnums?
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sorry man, i dont know much about the magnum. and there are way too many variables of how more displacement affects a cam. A lot will depend on head flow, pistons, compression, engine rpm, etc... However GENERALLY speaking, more displacement will allow for a bigger cam.
For a stroker kit, if you want the best there is, build one yourself instead of buying a "kit." You wont believe it, but a good rebuild with stock displacement will outperform most stroker "kits" in the market. Ive seen TONS of 355ci chevys smoke poorly built or cheap 383 strokers. It will be more expensive, but it will be worth it. Just remember strokers are FAR from cheap when done right.
Im currently rebuilding my lt1 and im getting my 350 block bored .30 over and since im getting new pistons and rods anyway, im just gonna need a crankshaft to make it a 383ci. If you want i can PM you a list of parts im replacing and maybe you can compare that to a magnum engine.
For a stroker kit, if you want the best there is, build one yourself instead of buying a "kit." You wont believe it, but a good rebuild with stock displacement will outperform most stroker "kits" in the market. Ive seen TONS of 355ci chevys smoke poorly built or cheap 383 strokers. It will be more expensive, but it will be worth it. Just remember strokers are FAR from cheap when done right.
Im currently rebuilding my lt1 and im getting my 350 block bored .30 over and since im getting new pistons and rods anyway, im just gonna need a crankshaft to make it a 383ci. If you want i can PM you a list of parts im replacing and maybe you can compare that to a magnum engine.
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Yea that would b sick so what ur saying is make my own stroker build? Or ur saying rebuild the engine? If ur saying rebuild the engine what parts should I look for and if ur saying build my own stroker engine what kind of parts do I look for and how do I tell if the parts are potentially for a STROKER build? And could I do both and get an even better out come than just one of those choices? Or are they so different of builds that they won't MESH together properly? And not trying to offend u on this one if u aren't but if ur not an expert on this area who should I talk to local shop , post a reply to a certain member on this forum or email/message an expert? Thanks Zlow28 
Zlow, "someone" said there's no point in changing rocker ratios if you're replacing cams. If you get the right cam, why then turn right around and change the ratio? You wouldn't. I did not say one should not buy aftermarket rockers. If you have the cash burning a hole in your pocket and want that last Nth degree of precision, go for it. They are, by the way, available in stock ratios.
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234 Posts
that 4* basically just changes where the power comes in (advance = sooner(lower rpms)
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your best bet is to call Comp Cams tech support. they will be able to help you sort out what your gonna need.
there are a lot of variables when it comes to the correct push rod length. your best be is to get some adjustable push rods and use them to measure once everything is back together.
but for a cam swap, your gonna need: cam of course, double roller timing chain (recommended), install lube, might be a good idea to get some new lifters (depending on how many miles you have on them), new springs (based on cam specs), retainers, locks, i would also recommend adjustable roller rockers, one piece push rods, intake gasket set, oil & filter, coolant, black RTV. in a nut shell, thats basically everything you'll need.
it's also best to have the cam degree'd in.
http://www.fbthrottlebodies.com/
there are a lot of variables when it comes to the correct push rod length. your best be is to get some adjustable push rods and use them to measure once everything is back together.
but for a cam swap, your gonna need: cam of course, double roller timing chain (recommended), install lube, might be a good idea to get some new lifters (depending on how many miles you have on them), new springs (based on cam specs), retainers, locks, i would also recommend adjustable roller rockers, one piece push rods, intake gasket set, oil & filter, coolant, black RTV. in a nut shell, thats basically everything you'll need.
it's also best to have the cam degree'd in.
http://www.fbthrottlebodies.com/
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