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Which stance should I go with?

  • The 1st one...it looks mean with it's @$$ up in the air.

    Votes: 4 5.3%
  • The 2nd one...a little less rake, not too much fender wheel.

    Votes: 19 25.0%
  • The 3rd one...Holy level, Batman!

    Votes: 53 69.7%
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This is in response to my own thread "Optimum setting for Bilstein 5100?"

In my quest to determine whether or not I want to do a Bilstein level and what setting, today I parked my truck on the most level pavement at my house and shoved the jack under the front crossmember. Tell me what you think!! I'm leaning towards #3 but is that too much fender well for the stock 33" tires? Taller tires is probably not an option right now.

Before the "lift" I measured 6.125" between the front tire and the fender. I measured 9" for the rear. Here's a stock pic.



Then I got to "lifting". Here's my simulated 1.3-1.4" lift. Front fender distance measured 7.5".



And here is my simulated 2.0-2.1" lift. Front fender distance measured 8.125".



And lastly, just for kicks even though I do not intend to go this high, here is my simulated 2.5" lift. Front fender distance measured 8.625"

 

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the last two couldnt really tell the difference, but i would say the last one, unless your always hauling or towing then go for the second to last one even maybe the last one and put a helper spring in the back to make it not sqaut so much when loaded but then you might end up with a rougher rear end ride
 

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the last two couldnt really tell the difference, but i would say the last one, unless your always hauling or towing then go for the second to last one even maybe the last one and put a helper spring in the back to make it not sqaut so much when loaded but then you might end up with a rougher rear end ride
What he said^^^^^^^
 

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Bro do you have the Bilsteins at your house?? Set it to the max!! If you take a few steps back and don't like it, then it will only take you half a day to crank it down a notch. I think the 3rd and 4th pics are almost the same. Go big or go home, thats how I feel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Thanks for all the replies....keep em coming!!

In response to a few comments....

Yeah, I can't tell hardly any difference between #3 and #4 either in the photos but I'm certain that it was 3/8-1/2" higher.

I really don't do any towing. If I did it wouldn't be more than a utility trailer with some landscaping materials on it maybe once a year if even. Same for hauling. Mostly taking the garbage off or bringing something home from Lowes....couple hundred pounds of camping gear every now and then. That's about it.

Hooah, I don't have them yet. Been trying to decide for certain if and how I want to do it and kinda waiting to see what tax time is going to bring. Did you do yours yourself? I was thinking you did. Do you have to compress the coil spring any further to get it on the Bilstein than to get it off the stocker?

Also, I didn't realize until just yesterday that the Bilsteins for the third gens only have four settings with 2" being the max. That's what I'm leaning towards.
 

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I would def. go with the max, looks the way it should. Level all the way. I am in the process of deciding how im going to do mine as I have an 05 the 5100's are not an option. Cant wait to level mine. Sweet truck.
 

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I put mine at the max and it does not sit nose high. There are some pics in a diff thread. I did end up putting 34" tires on it to fill in the gap a bit, but I needed new rubber anyway.
 

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I haven't ordered mine yet. Like you I'm waiting for the tax refund but I will be doing mine on my own. Ive done suspension work on cars and a buddy's JK and we always used coil spring compressors and I'll probably use them when I put the 5100s on my truck just to ease the install.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yeah, I'm thinking about doing mine myself as well.....save a couple hundred bucks. I was just worried about how big of a PITA it might be to get some of those nuts loose that haven't been turned in six years/65K miles. But my father-in-law has a lift and all the tools I need and I know a guy who can fix about anything and will work for beer so....I might just give it a shot, lol.
 

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Go with the max setting. I just installed them this past Saturday and it sits a half inch high in the rear still even with 300lbs. of crap in the tool box. I started a thread that you can see a couple pics in. Buy some PB Blaster and soak all the bolts you can get to now, especially the big one at the bottom of the strut, at the sleave. No prob getting the nut off but the bolts on both sides were rusted/seized in the metal sleave in the bushing. It was an hour of hammer, lube, and a big impact working it back and forth getting it out. The single nut holding the top plate on was rusted up pretty bad too. Had to take a deburring tool and make flat spots on the oem strut to hold with a pipe wrench to get the nut off. As always, LUBE LUBE LUBE! Definitely will need a good coil spring compressor, broke the china made one, didn't break the blue point (snap on). Good Luck!
 

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I say go to the max unless you are towing. If you put air bags in the rear for when you are towing then you can leave it at max all the time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I appreciate all the input everyone. Me being a little OCD...went out and jacked it back up today to do some more head scratching, lol. I agree with the majority that the 2" setting looks best but I think it's on the verge of making the stock sized tires look too small. And the thing that really probably made my decision....I got my son and his buddy (maybe 250 pounds combined) to sit on the tailgate while it was jacked up to the 2" mark and I did not like what I saw. It was very noticeably squatting in the rear. So I think the 1.3-1.4" setting is probably going to be the best happy median for me.

Thanks again all and it will probably be a couple of weeks but I will post some photos after the install.
 

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the last two couldnt really tell the difference, but i would say the last one, unless your always hauling or towing then go for the second to last one even maybe the last one and put a helper spring in the back to make it not sqaut so much when loaded but then you might end up with a rougher rear end ride
Could you tell me more about helper springs and how their installed, cost etc? Whould they increase payload weight and what's all this I'm reading about towing issues? You can PM me to keep from jamming up this thread. Thanks!

And by the way... I dig the last pic! I'll be following your MODs as your truck is about identical to mine.
 

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I voted for leveled. Only way to go IMO
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
What a morning. I took my truck to have the Bilsteins installed and took them inside to make sure the tech was familiar with the circlip and collar mechanism. The guy says "Oh, your truck has a coilover front suspension?"

"Ummm yeah, all 2006-up Dodge Ram 1500s do."

"Oh, well I didn't price for that. It's going to be a few extra hours and cost a little more."

"Greeeeeaaattttttt."

Then it got even better. After I had left the tech calls me and says he needs the key to my locking lugnuts. "My truck doesn't have locking lugnuts" I say. My turn to be the fool because actually, yes, it does. As close as I have been to my wheels (I have washed the lugnuts and inside the little well where they sit inside the rim several times) I never noticed that one of them is the slightest bit different...because it's actually a plastic cover rather than a chrome lugnut. And the best part of that? I distinctly remember throwing the key away some time last summer while cleaning my truck. I assumed that it had once had locking lugnuts and someone had replaced them....so why would I need the key?

Well they put the back ones on while they had it but that was all they could do. I spent 2-3 hours calling tire places and dealerships trying to figure out the best way to get the locking lugs off and still don't know for sure what I am going to do. My first thought was to just find a similar model truck and borrow the wrench but after a little research I have determined that it is not at all going to be that simple.

Sorry, needed to vent a little. Will update when available.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Update on locking lug key....I called McGard, the company that makes the locking lugs that Chrysler was using in 2006 (and maybe still uses...not sure). She had me email her a photo of the key pattern on my locking lug along with my vehicle info. She called me within five minutes and told me the key I needed was $14.99!! Would I like to order now? Why, hell yes!!! LOL. So it will be here probably first of next week and I guess I'll try to get my Bilsteins installed again.
 

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um they make a tool to remove locking lug nuts with out damaging them. matco, mac, snap on, blue point all make a kit. any good auto tech has this little speciality kit sitting in there tool box because people never know what happen to there key, can remove and and install them. i should move south and show these southern boys how things work and should be done..... http://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/TSS5A/5-PC-1-2-DR-TWIST-SOCKET-SET/ heres one of the kits. tell your mechanic to invest!!!!!
 
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