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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone, I just got a 2018 GMC sierra Allterrain (looks awesome), but I think it has the "chevy shake." I've been to the dealer twice about it and they have road force balanced the tires and did more maintenance on the tranny and I'm still getting a vibration at 70 mph and higher. So in saying that, I've driven the ram and was very impressed. I would like to trade (depending on the wife) for a RAM hopefully '15-'18. Is there anything I need to be on the lookout for on these trucks used? Or any factory issues that I should look for (like the chevy shake)???? Thanks for any info!!!
 

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Unless you are not taking a bath on trading the truck, I'd ride it out a while with the GMC. If you haven't already, join a couple Chevy/GMC forums and look for answers.

Also. look into taking the truck back to the dealer for a new one and also be sure you have opened a case with the company.

If all that fails, then look into a trade.

You might want to mention lemon law to the company also.
 

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As far as the Rams go, check it for a leaking 3rd brake light. Super easy fix with either weatherstripping or silicone, but water can get in and leak behind the rear seat when it happens.


Hemis have aluminum heads and cast iron exhaust manifolds so the manifolds can warp and break the studs causing an exhaust leak.


The 8 speed transmissions Ram uses are about as bulletproof as any stock automatic' I'd wager they are all around the best transmission offered in a half ton. We are talking half tons here right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks BobS, I've looked around and this is a very common issue. Lots of clss action lawsuits against chevy about it. I'm on a chevy forum and there are over 800 pages of people with the same issue. There seem to be multiple "fixes" ranging from new tires, to rebalancing, to a new 2 piece driveshaft. All of those will be over 1k which to me, is ridiculous to have to spend on a brand new truck. It's just the principle of it with me. The 2 times I've taken it to the dealer(2 different dealers), they said it was all "within spec" so I don't think they will be much help. As for losing my ass on a trade, I don't know, I guess I need to check NADA to see what thy would offer.

Thanks Thunderhorse, thats what I'm looking for.. Are the manifolds a big issue, or just hit or miss??

Again, this is all dependant on the wife giving the ok.. I'm going to go to a dealership and have her ride with me in a RAM to see the difference. Thanks for the helps guys!!
 

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I think the K2XX GMs have issues with AC compressors too, but we have several members who came over to Ram to escape their "Viberados"


My dad had a couple manifold bolts replaced on his-which is a 2009 with 117k miles on it. I haven't had it happen on mine at around 80k miles. Its fairly common but I have heard that if you plane the manifold surface back to flat once they've warped it solves the issue because they have enough heat cycles through them to not warp anymore. I did a gentle break in for my Hemi so maybe that had something to do with it. This isn't unique to Ram, Ford's Coyotes do it too, and really any engine with aluminum heads and iron manifolds will do it; I do think they could have engineered larger diameter studs-as is you can't go much bigger without perforating the water jacket. The worst case possible would be burning a valve, but I think that's really unlikely and haven't heard of it happening.


Or you could just go with headers lol, but you may not want all the heat in the engine bay when towing.


There are some guys complaining of rough downshifts with the 8 speed transmissions. There haven't been any failures from it, so I'd describe it more as a characteristic than a problem, and I think it has more to do with that person's driving style that the transmission learns; both my vehicles have 8HP transmissions and neither of them do it.


There are some trucks, mostly 2011s, that have had lifter rollers seize and wipe a cam lobe; but its not really any more common than on the GM pushrod V8s. Personally I think the issue there is batch QC'd lifters.


There are some years (15-17) where the tailgate latch mechanism can break and the tailgate drops while you're going down the road. When the power locking mechanism actuates it can break the overtravel stop, but you can fix it temporarily by unplugging the tailgate. There's an active recall for it now too.


There are the standard airbag recalls that every other car has too.


Some of the newer ones seem to have got a bad batch of fuel pumps where the fuel level sensor will fail and you have to either drop the tank or pull the bed to replace it.



Here are some pertinent threads:


https://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=192459


https://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=206266


https://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=190906


https://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=188978


All that said, these trucks are pretty well sorted out and seem to have few serious issues. Mine is 5+ years old, and other than routine maintenance I have replaced a fuel pressure sensor that was $70 and took 30 min to replace, a rear main seal (my wife let it sit for 8 months on my last deployment, and the front wheel bearings. I will hit 80k this week, but I'd be over 100k if I weren't deployed for 14 months while I've owned it
 

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There is no cure for the Chevy shake. There is a 700 plus page thread on GM trucks.com on just that one subject alone. I would get rid of that truck as fast as you can and at whatever cost. I owned two of them and the 70 plus MPH freeway vibes were unbearable. With the RAMs big rebates it will absorb your negative equity and make it a little easier on the payments. I switched to RAM three years ago and will never buy another GM truck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I think the K2XX GMs have issues with AC compressors too, but we have several members who came over to Ram to escape their "Viberados"


My dad had a couple manifold bolts replaced on his-which is a 2009 with 117k miles on it. I haven't had it happen on mine at around 80k miles. Its fairly common but I have heard that if you plane the manifold surface back to flat once they've warped it solves the issue because they have enough heat cycles through them to not warp anymore. I did a gentle break in for my Hemi so maybe that had something to do with it. This isn't unique to Ram, Ford's Coyotes do it too, and really any engine with aluminum heads and iron manifolds will do it; I do think they could have engineered larger diameter studs-as is you can't go much bigger without perforating the water jacket. The worst case possible would be burning a valve, but I think that's really unlikely and haven't heard of it happening.


Or you could just go with headers lol, but you may not want all the heat in the engine bay when towing.


There are some guys complaining of rough downshifts with the 8 speed transmissions. There haven't been any failures from it, so I'd describe it more as a characteristic than a problem, and I think it has more to do with that person's driving style that the transmission learns; both my vehicles have 8HP transmissions and neither of them do it.


There are some trucks, mostly 2011s, that have had lifter rollers seize and wipe a cam lobe; but its not really any more common than on the GM pushrod V8s. Personally I think the issue there is batch QC'd lifters.


There are some years (15-17) where the tailgate latch mechanism can break and the tailgate drops while you're going down the road. When the power locking mechanism actuates it can break the overtravel stop, but you can fix it temporarily by unplugging the tailgate. There's an active recall for it now too.


There are the standard airbag recalls that every other car has too.


Some of the newer ones seem to have got a bad batch of fuel pumps where the fuel level sensor will fail and you have to either drop the tank or pull the bed to replace it.



Here are some pertinent threads:


https://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=192459


https://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=206266


https://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=190906


https://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=188978


All that said, these trucks are pretty well sorted out and seem to have few serious issues. Mine is 5+ years old, and other than routine maintenance I have replaced a fuel pressure sensor that was $70 and took 30 min to replace, a rear main seal (my wife let it sit for 8 months on my last deployment, and the front wheel bearings. I will hit 80k this week, but I'd be over 100k if I weren't deployed for 14 months while I've owned it
awesome thank you for that!!!! I'll take a look at them and see what I see.. I have a feeling the wife will not let me trade but I just want to prepare just in case. Next truck is a a cummins with built trans, compounds, tuning, etc...:SHOCKED:
 

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awesome thank you for that!!!! I'll take a look at them and see what I see.. I have a feeling the wife will not let me trade but I just want to prepare just in case. Next truck is a a cummins with built trans, compounds, tuning, etc...:SHOCKED:

If you want to convince the wife, you need to get her to go test drive with you. Now she's just looking at the cost, when she feels the floating-on-a-cloud ride she'l be much more amenable to the idea.


FWIW I want a heavy duty for my next truck, but would rather have a Hemi than a Cummins
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
thanks everyone, I just did an edmunds on my truck and I think I would be ok in trading, but again, I just need to get the wife on board, and I just need to find one and have her ride with me. Thanks again!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So which are you looking at? A 1500 or the 2500? Or bigger?
New or Used?
Do you keep your vehicles for a long time/high mileage?
Right now, I'm just looking for a 1500 (new or used) up to about 42k (I think I can at least get that in my truck now). If I go with used, I'll use the extra money for tuning, leveling kit, 35's, exhaust (stuff like that). I'm not opposed to getting used and would probably rather get that (but a certified one), just so I don't worry about scratches. I will probably keep this truck about 5-6 years too and I'll be putting on about 17-18k miles per year
 

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I don't know if you ever get extended warranties or not, I never did until this one due to all of the electronics and I will keep it forever.
But as long as you are under 4 yr/48k miles you can buy a Ram extended warranty that will basically extend the 3/36 bumper to bumper warranty for up to lifetime coverage - shop online and you can save a bunch of money on one. It will cover the exhaust manifold bolts also.



There is not much to be gained by tuning a stockish Ram - just isn't much gain.


Same with exhaust, you gain noise but have to watch for drone at highway speed and no real performance gain unless doing headers. Stock exhaust is pretty large, my stock single exhaust is 3" the whole way back.



There are some really good deals on leftover 18's yet.


If you tow much weight, maybe consider looking for one with the 3.92's gears - though they will cost you 2-4 mpg @ 70+ mph. Might be a good idea if going with 35's though.


Definitely only get the 8 speed, even with the 3.21 gears it will outperform a 6 speed with 3.92 gears. And it is a far superior transmission over the 6 speed.


Stay away from any with the dual headlights, most are quads - duals use one bulb for low/high beam - quads use 2 bulbs per side, one low, one high.
And of course there are projector headlight trucks - trim level usually decides the headlamp.
Duals have poor output and there is nothing you can do to improve the stock light output.
Quads stock IMO have poor output but a simple bulb change has a night and day improvement.
Projectors - I have never been in one at night :)


The headlamp output is probably by far the biggest complaint on the last generation Rams.

My 2016 has quads and stock they were horrible to see at night, quick cheap bulb change, slight adjustment and now very pleased with them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
ahhh Thats good to know about the tuning, I was looking at hemifever tuning. The last 3 trucks I've had were diesels and I tuned all of them. Is there any way to tell on a used RAM about the gear ratio other than the glove box sticker?

I'm surprised about the exhaust. I'm glad that its big enough. This will be my DD and a lot of my driving will be on the highway.

As for the lights, it seems like the triims I'm looking at have the better ones possibly? The one thing I'm have to have is a center console and I don't think the express or tradesman version have that (but I'm still learning about the 50 different configurations you can get haha). I'm not dead set on 35's although it will probably be close like a 34 or something.
 

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If you find one and can get the vin on it, there is a site you can go to, put in the vin and see everything the truck was built with.


Diesels get huge gains when tuning :)


Unless you run 93 octane fuel or mod the hemi a good bit, there just isn't much to gain with a tune and if it is a 2015 or newer you have to either buy an unlocked PCM OR have yours unlocked (voiding the warranty).


Quick way to tell if it has the 3.92 gears - at 70 mph in 8th gear your rpms will be close to 2000 rpms.
3.21 gears @70 mph rpms will be about 1500 rpms.


W/the 8 speed trans - 3.92 gears will be in 8th gear at about 45-50 mph light throttle, mine is closer to 42-45 mph.
- with 3.21 gears in 8th gear at over 50-55 mph generally light throttle.
Can tell which gear you are in by pushing the +/- button on the steering wheel - when you are up to speed push the - and look at the dash, you should see it change from D to the gear you are in.


Probably stay with Big Horn or above trim levels to get the better interiors and standard equipment. Express, Tradesman, SLT are all lower than the Big Horn.


FYI, stock tires with the 20" wheels are 33" tall. With the 17" wheels they are 31.8" tall.


You can fit up to a 34" tire in the spare tire area. Most will come with a temporary spare that is 32.4" tall but if it has the aluminum spare wheel you can put a full size tire on that wheel to match either the height of the 20" or 17" stock tires.
 

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Duals were discontinued the same year the 8 speeds came out, if you get an 8 speed truck you don't have to worry about dual headlights. This is the bulb upgrade he is talking about for the quads:


https://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=231321


The tuning gain thing has nothing to do with diesel vs gas, it has to do with naturally aspirated vs forced induction. On a turbodiesel you can increase boost with a tuner, same as with a turbo gas engine. You can't just program a naturally aspirated engine (gas or diesel) to pack in more air so you can burn more fuel, you have to rev it higher, which is what cams allow you to do
 

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Does anyone even make a naturally aspirated diesel other than big trucks?
No, they're kind of stupid. I knew a guy who swapped a Detroit 2 stroke NA diesel into his 70s C-30 dually
 

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I traded my 2017 Chevy z71 with 6.2 that I bought new for a 2018 ram. I have not missed the Chevy at all from a powertrain standpoint. I was a die hard gm guy until my 2017. The ram 8 speed transmission is a night and day difference. It's just that much better. The throttle response is also much better in the ram. I drove the Chevy a year before trading hoping it would get better but it didn't. Just couldn't keep paying for a truck that I hated the driving characteristics. Loving my Ram!!
 

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I traded my 2017 Chevy z71 with 6.2 that I bought new for a 2018 ram. I have not missed the Chevy at all from a powertrain standpoint. I was a die hard gm guy until my 2017. The ram 8 speed transmission is a night and day difference. It's just that much better. The throttle response is also much better in the ram. I drove the Chevy a year before trading hoping it would get better but it didn't. Just couldn't keep paying for a truck that I hated the driving characteristics. Loving my Ram!!



The Chevy didn't have the 8L90?
 
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