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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey I'm new here but id thought id get this out here as quick as I can. its an 89 ram 318 tbi. its drivable but when I hit the throttle my truck moves but not very fast. I can pass cars and raise the hood when I hit the gas but cannot spin tires, for example. in addition it feels like my trans is slipping, but have had that checked. its something with my fuel. now. this truck was not running when I bought it. I replaced fuel pump, injectors, sending unit, spark plugs, rotor, cap, wires, timing, previous owner cleaned fuel tank, replaced fuel lines,and rebuilt the tbi. but all that work only screwed me. theres cut vac lines, tubes that lead to nothing. I have cleaned the egr.and screwed with just about everything. I feel it might be the fuel pressure regulator. but cant find any way to diagnose that. what im asking is what could be causing this? a list off all parts that have to do with fuel to the engine that I have not replaced. it has 98000 miles.:4-dontknow:
edit; I also smell gas in exhaust and it bickfires very rarely. like once every 3-4 miles and its very small. the engine and my truck shake also while accelerating. ill post pictures if needed. any help would be very appreciate this as its my way to work.
its not a mess on the inside everythings plugged off or just runs down to a plugged off end. nothings just open. its a good running truck it just has these two problems. iv unplugged my computer and sprayed carb/tbi cleaner inside the carb while it was running. all of this work has gotten her to where she is now. iv gone through hell and back for this truck. but I know its worth it because I got it real cheap off a friend.
 

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have you replaced the o2 sensor? with how many miles is on the truck it is one of those thing that will most likely need to be replaced. if you do replace it make sure to get a ntk brand o2 sensor. they work the best since they are the oem. if they are too expansive locally you can usually get them fairly cheap from rockauto.com
 

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should be on the exhaust before the catalytic converter. it is oxygen sensor. it measure your air to fuel ratio and your computer adjust things to make it run right. if your exhaust smells like fuel then your old o2 sensor could be fouled up and need to be replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
well when I get paid Monday ill replace it. I found one for 25 dollars at rock auto. is there anything else that you could think of? would a bad converter (torque or cat) cause it to act like that?
 

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Hi, I have a 99 Laramie with a 318. Driving down the highway the truck glitches, for lack of a better phrase. Sometimes in town it'll die, but quickly restart. We've had it on the computer and it shows nothing wrong. We put a new crank sensor on it but it still does it. It doesn't lose power just glitches.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
well my truck would do that till I changed my fuel pump and strainer. in my experience its better to replace the fuel pump first before anything. sometimes things find their way into the tank (only god knows how) and thankfully the fuel pump gathers everything conveniently right at your strainer. inside your sending unit. however that burns out your pump. so if it has an open bed all you have to do is lift your bed and pull your sending unit out and replace the fuel pump and strainer. its easier than dropping the tank however not as safe. you have to secure your bed yourself. I had no problem using a jack with a log and just jack up the bed. use blocks for the jack. or just pay a mechanic. it might not be the solution but more times then not this fixes it.
 

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I had an old truck and ran as both of you described. As our other guy told you 02 sensor for sure. But it did not completely fix my problem, I had a blocked catalytic converter (get one from the junk yard). That fixed my problem (forgot MAF) Mass air flow. R...
 

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There is no MAF. You need O2 sensor, MAP sensor, timing chain gear set. The O2 sensor is hidden in the driver side exhaust manifold, not down near the cat like later models. It is infuriatingly difficult to change. It's easier and faster to pull the manifold off and change it that way. Remember to disconnect the battery so the computer will reset and see the new sensor. Oh, even in optimal tune, you're not gonna burn rubber, unless you slip at least 3.55 gears in there or do some power upgrades.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
changed o2 senor no change. guy at orielys said it might be the TPS. so after work ill stop by and pick one up at the only place in town who has the part.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
like I said its driveable and sometimes itll run fine but most times itll kind jolt down. I also need to replace my trans fuid that has a hand in the slow shifting out. making the problem seem worse.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
well the tps fixed the random cutting off. but I am very unsure I installed it correctly. I wonder if I could post a video of the engine running? when the air filter is off and you rev it, it kind of has a whoosh sound. I swear theres just one last piece of this puzzle. but do you think seeing and hearing it run would help diagnostics?

I took her to the mechanic awhile back he said my injectors were bad. so when I changed those and it still didn't run right I didn't want to pay 75 to be told one thing at a time. .

when I try to get (codes) nothing lights up but my oil lamp. iv tried it all different speeds, different amounts of turns, all sorts of crazy things.

sorry its a lot I know but I figure someone might see a pattern and suggest a plan lol I really appreciate any answers, id reply soley to people but im new to forums all together. like quoting and stuff.
 

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your check engine light should flash the codes

ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTICS Dodge OBD1 Pre 96

1. Cycle the ignition key ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON within 5 seconds. To cycle the ignition key ON means to turn it only as far as it takes to get the radio to come on. It does not mean to turn the engine on.

2. Count the number of times the "check engine" lamp on the instrument panel flashes on and off. The number of flashes represents the code. There is a slight pause between the flashes representing the first and second digits of the code. Longer pauses separate individual codes. For example, flash-flash-flash [pause] flash-flash represents the code 32.

A code of "55" represents end of error codes. If this is all you get then no error codes are stored in the computer. This is the normal condition

CODE Description of Trouble Code
11 Timing belt skipped 1 tooth or more from initial learned value, Intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor, No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking
12 Direct battery input to PCM was disconnected within the last 50 key-on cycles (normal)
13 No change in MAP from start to run
14 MAP sensor voltage too low
15 No vehicle speed sensor signal
17 Closed loop temp not reached or engine cold too long
21 02s sensor problem (oxygen sensor), upstream or down stream
22 Engine coolant temp sensor out of range
23 Intake air temp sensor out of range
24 Throttle Position sensor out of range
25 Idle air control motor circuits, target idle not reached (+/- 200),vacuum leak found
27 Injector control circuit
31 Evap purge flow monitor failure or evap solenoid circuit
32 EGR system failure
33 A/C clutch relay circuit
34 Speed control Solenoid circuits
35 Rad Fan control relay circuit
37 Torque converter clutch solenoid CKT or park/neutral switch failure
41 Generator field not switching properly
42 Fuel pump relay control ckt, Auto shutdown relay control ckt, No ASD relay output voltage at PCM, Fuel level sending unit volts out of range, Fuel level unit No change over miles
43 Multiple/ single cylinder misfire
44 Battery temp sensor volts out of range
45 Overdrive solenoid shorted or open (automatic transmission only)
46 Charging system voltage too high
47 Charging system voltage too low
51 Fuel system lean
52 Fuel system rich
53 Internal control failure
54 No Cam signal at PCM
55 End of error messages (If you get this only, no errors were found)
62 PCM failure SRI mile not stored
63 PCM Failure EEPROM write denied
64 Catalytic Converter Efficiency Failure
65 Power steering switch failure
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yeah I'm not getting any codes what so ever. And sorry for the late reply, iv gone through two alternators last few days due to a bad electrical problem.

And your saying even if I put the pedal to the floor from a dead stop I won't spin tires? I don't know its squealed before.

So I guess how would I find out why I'm not getting codes?

So dang close!

Oh and how safe do you think a hardwired alternator to battery set up is?
 

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did the parts stores test the alternator to verify that they were bad?

i think the only time my trucks spin the tires is when it is wet out or if i floor it while going around the corner.

does your check engine light even work?

depends on what you mean by hard wire alternator to the battery?
 

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One oft overlooked part is the throttle body. A rebuild kit is less that thirty bucks and is very simple. A vacuum leak in the throttle body kills power and responsiveness. Despite being ae to last much longer that the typical carb due to both form and overall function, gaskets do not last forever. Do yourself a favor and rebuild it.
 
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