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2014 345ci 8hp70 44-44 3.92 Truetrac NX Express Comp Greene Racing
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Perfect examples on different lobes showing the root cause before and after,

If you only want it to last another 100k miles use another poorly induction hardened cast iron OEM camshaft.

If you want the valvetrain to outlast the bottom end, install a billet steel camshaft thru hardened like the hellcat engines which are durability tested 300k miles at wide open 6200 RPM.
 

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Have mine at the dealership as I was getting a cylinder five misfire only during WOW >4k RPMs.

Dealer pulled the VVT solenoid and said there were three metallic flakes. Said could go either way on the repair versus engine replacement but was concerned about further contamination.

For those that pulled the VVT solenoid, how did yours look versus mine?
Sleeve Automotive tire Gas Suspension Collar
 

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Have mine at the dealership as I was getting a cylinder five misfire only during WOW >4k RPMs.

Dealer pulled the VVT solenoid and said there were three metallic flakes. Said could go either way on the repair versus engine replacement but was concerned about further contamination.

For those that pulled the VVT solenoid, how did yours look versus mine?
View attachment 143407
Mine looked good and I have my engine back together running great. Yours looks better than mine did.
 

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How did yours look compared to mine? Did it have flakes or more of a "glitter paint" look?

Dealer said they had a discussion about the condition with the service tech, foreman and service manager so it obviously isn't always black and white. I asked how mine looked compared to others and they said there are those that are fully clean without any flakes and then mine is pretty much as close to clean as they have seen.
 

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Looks good to me, but i would change the style of it. Updated ones have a metal spirl wire and different mesh. Replce oil pump or open and inspect same with, the cam vvt sprocket. Heard that lots of shaving can hide in there.should only cost approx 1hr labor to do.
 

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How did yours look compared to mine? Did it have flakes or more of a "glitter paint" look?

Dealer said they had a discussion about the condition with the service tech, foreman and service manager so it obviously isn't always black and white. I asked how mine looked compared to others and they said there are those that are fully clean without any flakes and then mine is pretty much as close to clean as they have seen.
Mine actually was clean like yours but the MDS solenoids were not very clean. No metal just seemed dirty. I did put in a new oil pump and solenoids and new lifters. I actually had cylinder 2 which is not an MDS lifter...go bad. I feel like the cam was crap. I went ahead and rebuilt mine. Wasn't that bad really.
 

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2011 Ram 2500 5.7 Hemi, with 201k!! I’ve had an exhaust leak for about 2/3 years now! Goes away after warm up!! But now has a tick, a lot of what I’ve read, it’s lifters! If I listen to intake, I can hear tick even more! Any suggestions??
 

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2014 345ci 8hp70 44-44 3.92 Truetrac NX Express Comp Greene Racing
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2011 Ram 2500 5.7 Hemi, with 201k!! I’ve had an exhaust leak for about 2/3 years now! Goes away after warm up!! But now has a tick, a lot of what I’ve read, it’s lifters! If I listen to intake, I can hear tick even more! Any suggestions??
Fix the exhaust leak first to help pinpoint the cylinder, then you could try a high moly synthetic oil with some more viscosity(5w30 or 0w40 PUP) to quiet it down. Other than pulling the camshaft/lifters and inspecting you'll have to keep nursing it along until it misfires.
 

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Picked up my truck from the dealership last night and runs GREAT!! Waited a bit on the freeway but eventually went WOT and brought a smile to my face when it went 4k+ RPMs without missing/blinking a CEL.

Here are a couple photos they took for reference:
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Camera accessory Camera lens Cameras & optics Lens Gas
 

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2013 Ram 1500 125k miles and I started to hear the dreaded lifter chirp. I didn't know this was a common issue with rams until going through such an ordeal I have been through. I attached a picture of my camshaft. The picture is probably the worst of the pitted lobes. Does anyone think this is enough to cause metal shavings to roam around in my engine? I'm learning a lot about engines and everything and didn't ask about a VVT screen? having any metal shavings.

Also, If anyone is able to answer. I got my camshaft and lifters replaced and now there is a weird misfire on cylinder 7. No lifter chirping and you can't even notice it after 1000RPMS but it idles funny and eventually will have a check engine light. Any suggestions?

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Yes, you were very lucky... its just minor wear from the picture... my concern is the needle bearings on the lifter, whether they just started to wear out or did they start to disintegrate and send shards thru the oiling system... but it appears you caught it early enough you avoided the major problem of the cam grinding itself to bits and spreading metal fragments thru the motor.
 

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Could be a bad spark plug, i had 1 in #7 once after i had heads off 3 years ago. I think a little bit of antifreeze got in there.
I spoke with the mechanic yesterday around closing time. They replaced the lifter bank for that cylinder and it fixed the issue. Although they just put brand new lifters and camshaft in I think something may have been stuck on the lifter for cylinder 7 so they went in and replaced it again. Hopefully no more issues with it and it lasts me a long time after this.
 

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2016 Ram 1500 Crew Cab Big Horn LB 4x4
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New here. Sorry for the long post. Not sure if I should have started a not post, or like others, add onto this one.

2016, 1500 5.7, 121k miles, about 4800 engine hours of which 1400 are idle (work construction). Oil pressure is about 30psi hot idle and 50psi driving. I’ve owned the truck since 2018 @ 14,500 miles. Oil changes always done at the dealer at 5-6k miles, except for going to a lube shop a few times due to dealer availability.

My truck always had a slight tick at idle from the driver side, which was told, and assumed to be “normal” hemi tick. By always, I mean since as far back as I can remember. The first actual memory I have would have been in 2019 sometime (about 40-60k miles) when someone asked me if the noise was normal, which I said yeah, its always been like that.

Fast forward to about a year ago, 97k miles, I start noticing the tick getting louder. Coincided with an oil change from the lube shop. I attitubuted it to possibly being from the different oil (Valvoline Syn Blend) vs. what the dealer had been using (“Mopar Premium Oil”).

Next oil change at 103k had the same lube shop put in full syn. Noise was still elevated, but no other symptoms.

Had front wheel bearings done at 105k at an independent shop. I ask the owner about the noise. He says might be normal, might be the beginning of a failed cam/lifter, and no way to know without tearing into the engine. Recommended keep driving and see what happens as there were no other symptoms.

Next oil change 109k was able to get into the dealer, noise remained the same, no other symptoms, no report from service advisor of any issued.

Next oil change 116K (my worst interval on the truck) full syn, noise about the same.

So about a month ago, the noise is getting louder, and I am pretty sure I heard some random chirps at idle. I had already replaced the idler pulleys on the serp belt, so I was pretty sure it was not that. And my ears were telling me it was internal. The chirping was never consistent enough to record though. Very much random, but unmistakable to me. Seemed to be observed at random times for about a week, and have not heard it since.

Around this time I start noticing pinging/detonation a little more pronounced. I had been putting 87 octane in with gas prices up, so I switched 91/93 back in. Still have ping/detonation. I also start getting a stutter at idle occasionally.

I had not done spark plugs yet, so I went ahead and did that. 119k. Pinging got a little better, but still present. My tick noise also still present. Stuttering at idle happening more frequently. I clean the throttle body. No change.

120k I take the truck to carmax to get an appraisal just for the sake of getting some numbers (disappointed btw). On the way off the lot, CEL comes on. Pull into parts store and pull a P0307 code. I clear it, and the light stays off. I go ahead and put a new coil on that cylinder. Still getting the stuttering at idle. More frequently.

121k truck is due for an oil change. I decided to throw Redline 5w30 in it based off feedback from the forum of it successfully quieting the tick. I am also thinking maybe I just have a hydraulic adjustment issue on on one lifter and maybe this will boost the pressure enough…. NOPE. Drove the truck 40 miles after putting the redline in it and the stutter at idle was way worse. Present almost 100% of the time the truck was at idle. Also had a midrange stutter that wasn’t there before. I decide to go ahead and dump the 5w30 and put 5w20 back in. P0307 comes back.

I dump the 5w30 the next day. I noticed a lot of glittery metal in the bottom of the drain pan this time. I did not notice any two days before when I drained the 5w20 with 5500 miles on it. I cleaned the pan before both drains, so i could tell what it looked like at the bottom.

The truck is running better now with 5w20 in it, but still has what i think is an abnormal tick, and still stutters at idle about 50% of the time. I cleared the code, and it hasn’t come back yet.

In my gut, I am sure that I probably have a cam/lifter issue. I have called around, and spoken to a few people I know who’ve had this issue (verified). Cam/lifter swap prices around around $4-5k in my area. The guy that did my wheel bearings said that if that is in fact what is happening, he recommends dropping in a Jasper engine for about $7k with the warranty as opposed to just doing the cam/lifters. I also stopped by an engine rebuilder down in Tampa that would rebuild the motor (new bearings, oil pump, water pump, timing chain, pistons, rings, valve springs, cam, lifters) for $5500 - $6000 with a 3 year unlimited miles warranty.

Again, sorry for the lengthy post. Just wanted to see what you guys think.
 

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Since you got metal shavings in the oil, it's a pretty good bet the cam is wiping itself out. So just me, I'd go with the recommendation of swapping out the motor. Both have good warranties, the difference is whether they both include removal/install of the new motor. And add some on to those figure for belts, hoses, fluids, etc..
 

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New here. Sorry for the long post. Not sure if I should have started a not post, or like others, add onto this one.

2016, 1500 5.7, 121k miles, about 4800 engine hours of which 1400 are idle (work construction). Oil pressure is about 30psi hot idle and 50psi driving. I’ve owned the truck since 2018 @ 14,500 miles. Oil changes always done at the dealer at 5-6k miles, except for going to a lube shop a few times due to dealer availability.

My truck always had a slight tick at idle from the driver side, which was told, and assumed to be “normal” hemi tick. By always, I mean since as far back as I can remember. The first actual memory I have would have been in 2019 sometime (about 40-60k miles) when someone asked me if the noise was normal, which I said yeah, its always been like that.

Fast forward to about a year ago, 97k miles, I start noticing the tick getting louder. Coincided with an oil change from the lube shop. I attitubuted it to possibly being from the different oil (Valvoline Syn Blend) vs. what the dealer had been using (“Mopar Premium Oil”).

Next oil change at 103k had the same lube shop put in full syn. Noise was still elevated, but no other symptoms.

Had front wheel bearings done at 105k at an independent shop. I ask the owner about the noise. He says might be normal, might be the beginning of a failed cam/lifter, and no way to know without tearing into the engine. Recommended keep driving and see what happens as there were no other symptoms.

Next oil change 109k was able to get into the dealer, noise remained the same, no other symptoms, no report from service advisor of any issued.

Next oil change 116K (my worst interval on the truck) full syn, noise about the same.

So about a month ago, the noise is getting louder, and I am pretty sure I heard some random chirps at idle. I had already replaced the idler pulleys on the serp belt, so I was pretty sure it was not that. And my ears were telling me it was internal. The chirping was never consistent enough to record though. Very much random, but unmistakable to me. Seemed to be observed at random times for about a week, and have not heard it since.

Around this time I start noticing pinging/detonation a little more pronounced. I had been putting 87 octane in with gas prices up, so I switched 91/93 back in. Still have ping/detonation. I also start getting a stutter at idle occasionally.

I had not done spark plugs yet, so I went ahead and did that. 119k. Pinging got a little better, but still present. My tick noise also still present. Stuttering at idle happening more frequently. I clean the throttle body. No change.

120k I take the truck to carmax to get an appraisal just for the sake of getting some numbers (disappointed btw). On the way off the lot, CEL comes on. Pull into parts store and pull a P0307 code. I clear it, and the light stays off. I go ahead and put a new coil on that cylinder. Still getting the stuttering at idle. More frequently.

121k truck is due for an oil change. I decided to throw Redline 5w30 in it based off feedback from the forum of it successfully quieting the tick. I am also thinking maybe I just have a hydraulic adjustment issue on on one lifter and maybe this will boost the pressure enough…. NOPE. Drove the truck 40 miles after putting the redline in it and the stutter at idle was way worse. Present almost 100% of the time the truck was at idle. Also had a midrange stutter that wasn’t there before. I decide to go ahead and dump the 5w30 and put 5w20 back in. P0307 comes back.

I dump the 5w30 the next day. I noticed a lot of glittery metal in the bottom of the drain pan this time. I did not notice any two days before when I drained the 5w20 with 5500 miles on it. I cleaned the pan before both drains, so i could tell what it looked like at the bottom.

The truck is running better now with 5w20 in it, but still has what i think is an abnormal tick, and still stutters at idle about 50% of the time. I cleared the code, and it hasn’t come back yet.

In my gut, I am sure that I probably have a cam/lifter issue. I have called around, and spoken to a few people I know who’ve had this issue (verified). Cam/lifter swap prices around around $4-5k in my area. The guy that did my wheel bearings said that if that is in fact what is happening, he recommends dropping in a Jasper engine for about $7k with the warranty as opposed to just doing the cam/lifters. I also stopped by an engine rebuilder down in Tampa that would rebuild the motor (new bearings, oil pump, water pump, timing chain, pistons, rings, valve springs, cam, lifters) for $5500 - $6000 with a 3 year unlimited miles warranty.

Again, sorry for the lengthy post. Just wanted to see what you guys think.
Yea this is most definitely a destroyed cam. The chirping noise you heard is exactly what mine sounded like. Luckily i got mine looked at before the cylinder misfire that occurs and had no metal in my engine. Once that cylinder misfire happens thats due to the cam being completely eaten.
 

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2014 345ci 8hp70 44-44 3.92 Truetrac NX Express Comp Greene Racing
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Again, sorry for the lengthy post. Just wanted to see what you guys think.
If you pull the heads to replace lifters/cam, clean VVT and MDS solenoids, then another fresh drain and fill 30-100 miles after the swap and you're good to go on the OEM shortblock. Every mile you drive from now could possible allow debris into soft brass alloy surfaces and contaminate crank/rod bearings which ultimately will lower system loop oil pressure.

These bottoms ends will go 300k+ miles with proper maintenance, and Jasper has had their fair share of quality control issues.
 
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