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Yeah , the SRA tires are definitely at the bottom of the list for quality - never have figured out the OEM's like using crap tires , you'd think they would do better to keep their reputation on the vehicle itself .

I'm considering keeping the current 17's for winter use and a set of 20's for summer time (Sport style wheels, non-chrome) . I could upgrade the 17's to a light all terrain like the Yokohama's or something . I had Toyo ATII's on the Taco , traction was awesome but that set would never balance right , even tried the beads once to no avail .

I do need to read up on using the t-case and 4wd systems , especially how the 4Loc and Auto 4wd works ...and when to use them .

Sarge
 

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I know exactly why they use them (and Chevies come with Wrangler SR-As too), where else are you going to find tires for 20" wheels for $140? They are also low rolling resistance so they help with the EPA figures
 

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Auburn diff update

Night and day compared to before. The problem that I have now is the non defeatable stability control. Snowed about 8 in this week, didn't need 4wd at all. Very smooth operation of the diff
Hodor,

Can you give us an update on the Auburn diff? Any issues or concerns?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #64
Well, just shy of 35,000 miles and the Auburn shit the bed. I did a moderate launch, tires broke free and boom! Drove another mile and a clunk on every corner. I pulled the diff cover and the spider gears in the diff were missing a few teeth, I found them in the lube at the bottom of the diff case. I swapped in the OE open diff, unfortunately had to reuse the ring gear bolts because I couldn't get any locally and need the truck tomorrow. I've been good on oil changes every 7500 miles or so. I had a feeling it was starting to go out last week in a tight parking garage had a lot of chatter on turns. This is the second Auburn I've owned (previous in a GM B body). The previous one was worn out at 100k but never had a catastrophic failure. This one just plain failed after about 20k miles of use. BTW, I'm still running the stock Wrangler SR-As, so not like I've got a ton of traction or oversized tires. I would not recommend buying one, not a good investment for the cost, better off sticking with the OE limited slip diff if you're going to upgrade.
 

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Well, just shy of 35,000 miles and the Auburn shit the bed. I did a moderate launch, tires broke free and boom! Drove another mile and a clunk on every corner. I pulled the diff cover and the spider gears in the diff were missing a few teeth, I found them in the lube at the bottom of the diff case. I swapped in the OE open diff, unfortunately had to reuse the ring gear bolts because I couldn't get any locally and need the truck tomorrow. I've been good on oil changes every 7500 miles or so. I had a feeling it was starting to go out last week in a tight parking garage had a lot of chatter on turns. This is the second Auburn I've owned (previous in a GM B body). The previous one was worn out at 100k but never had a catastrophic failure. This one just plain failed after about 20k miles of use. BTW, I'm still running the stock Wrangler SR-As, so not like I've got a ton of traction or oversized tires. I would not recommend buying one, not a good investment for the cost, better off sticking with the OE limited slip diff if you're going to upgrade.
Well that sucks. Really odd that it would fail so soon. Good thing you still had the old diff laying around.

I've been wanting to put a LSD in for a while and keep putting it off. Don't want the OEM because it uses clutches, and the shop who I've decided on putting it in told me to stay away from Auburn, that an Eaton unit is apparently scheduled to come out at some point early this year. So I'm waiting for Eaton.
 

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Well, just shy of 35,000 miles and the Auburn shit the bed. I did a moderate launch, tires broke free and boom! Drove another mile and a clunk on every corner. I pulled the diff cover and the spider gears in the diff were missing a few teeth, I found them in the lube at the bottom of the diff case. I swapped in the OE open diff, unfortunately had to reuse the ring gear bolts because I couldn't get any locally and need the truck tomorrow. I've been good on oil changes every 7500 miles or so. I had a feeling it was starting to go out last week in a tight parking garage had a lot of chatter on turns. This is the second Auburn I've owned (previous in a GM B body). The previous one was worn out at 100k but never had a catastrophic failure. This one just plain failed after about 20k miles of use. BTW, I'm still running the stock Wrangler SR-As, so not like I've got a ton of traction or oversized tires. I would not recommend buying one, not a good investment for the cost, better off sticking with the OE limited slip diff if you're going to upgrade.

How much friction modifier did you use when you filled it after the install?

The stock LSD seems to be holding up well for me, I've been getting plenty of use out of it.
 

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Not sure about axle ID. There is a barcode sticker under the driver side axle tube. Remember that limited slip is not a locker, it will likely not overcome the traction difference between snow and pavement. For something like that I don't think a OEM clutch type posi would be able to handle the traction difference. If the sticker called for it,it likely does. You can check by jacking up the rear end with the tranny in park, if you can rotate one wheel easily and the other side spins the opposite direction, it is an open diff, if you feel resistance but it still spins you might have a posi, but the clutches are worn. If the wheels don't spin at all, you have a posi for sure.
Now this is what i was looking for. Thanks Hodor.
I just purchased my Laramie with 20000 miles and it has the factory LSD. Before the warranty runs out, i need to determine if the LSD is working as it should and is in good shape. Aside from the above check, is there more i can do to check it out?
 

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Not sure about axle ID. There is a barcode sticker under the driver side axle tube. Remember that limited slip is not a locker, it will likely not overcome the traction difference between snow and pavement. For something like that I don't think a OEM clutch type posi would be able to handle the traction difference. If the sticker called for it,it likely does. You can check by jacking up the rear end with the tranny in park, if you can rotate one wheel easily and the other side spins the opposite direction, it is an open diff, if you feel resistance but it still spins you might have a posi, but the clutches are worn. If the wheels don't spin at all, you have a posi for sure.
You obviously know more about rear difs than me but I'm pretty sure you want the tranny in neutral for this test.
 

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Ok, i did this - both rear wheels off the ground, tranny in park and spinning one wheel by hand results in the other wheel spinning in the other direction. So open diff right?
Not convinced about this test, because my build sheet has an lsd listed.
Is there another way to tell, or am i going to have to pull the cover off ?
 

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Ok, i did this - both rear wheels off the ground, tranny in park and spinning one wheel by hand results in the other wheel spinning in the other direction. So open diff right?
Not convinced about this test, because my build sheet has an lsd listed.
Is there another way to tell, or am i going to have to pull the cover off ?
I don't think this test applies to the Rams LSD. I know it's come up before but don't recall what the answer is or if there was a simple answer.
 

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Can you tell me what im looking for on the barcode under the drivers side tube.
Mine is only partially readable. I can read the following:
TO3UG27230968 ......859AA 3.21
The 3.21 ratio is the only part i understand.
Anyone know if this is the lsd ?

There is no tag under a cover bolt head, but i hear that is not abnormal.
 

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Ive been reading about "breakaway torque" concerning LSDs, but i cannot find a spec for our units. Several youtube videos show people doing this, but its pointless me testing it until i know the spec. Some are putting a torque wrench on the axle nut. Others have an adapter plate that slides on the wheel studs and they torque on that. They get anywhere between 80-140 lb/ft depending on the spec for the particular vehicle, before the axle will turn, meaning the clutches have slipped at that point. Bad/weak clutches are showing up around 40 lb/ft apparently.
Word is that ours are on the weak side anyway when new - sure would love to find that spec.
I thought this funny, but one guy says you can jack one wheel up and with the vehicle in park, wrestle the wheel in a bear hug and turn it. It should take serious effort to break the clutches free, but at least I figured it will tell me that I have an LSD.
I gave it all i had even to the point the truck rolled forward. OOPS !
I put a wood chock under the front wheel and tried again. Could not get it to break free. Tried the other wheel - nothing !
Feeling glad no one saw me doing this, I quit on it !
 

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Ive been reading about "breakaway torque" concerning LSDs, but i cannot find a spec for our units. Several youtube videos show people doing this, but its pointless me testing it until i know the spec. Some are putting a torque wrench on the axle nut. Others have an adapter plate that slides on the wheel studs and they torque on that. They get anywhere between 80-140 lb/ft depending on the spec for the particular vehicle, before the axle will turn, meaning the clutches have slipped at that point. Bad/weak clutches are showing up around 40 lb/ft apparently.
Word is that ours are on the weak side anyway when new - sure would love to find that spec.
I thought this funny, but one guy says you can jack one wheel up and with the vehicle in park, wrestle the wheel in a bear hug and turn it. It should take serious effort to break the clutches free, but at least I figured it will tell me that I have an LSD.
I gave it all i had even to the point the truck rolled forward. OOPS !
I put a wood chock under the front wheel and tried again. Could not get it to break free. Tried the other wheel - nothing !
Feeling glad no one saw me doing this, I quit on it !

Funny post, don't get yourself killed. Usually when I do something embarrassing there is typically a large crowd of people to witness it. lol

I know you are trying to find out if your LSD is working before the warranty is up, but the thing is, even if you did discover that your LSD was worn out and not functioning properly, I bet this is one of those things that the dealer would probably fight you on. First, they would probably disagree with you and tell you it's working fine and as it should. And the second, even if you did convince them it was no longer functioning properly, they would chalk it up to normal wear and tear and it may fall under the same category as brake pads and tires. Not sure if it's worth all the trouble. Just my guess though.
 

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Funny post, don't get yourself killed. Usually when I do something embarrassing there is typically a large crowd of people to witness it. lol

I know you are trying to find out if your LSD is working before the warranty is up, but the thing is, even if you did discover that your LSD was worn out and not functioning properly, I bet this is one of those things that the dealer would probably fight you on. First, they would probably disagree with you and tell you it's working fine and as it should. And the second, even if you did convince them it was no longer functioning properly, they would chalk it up to normal wear and tear and it may fall under the same category as brake pads and tires. Not sure if it's worth all the trouble. Just my guess though.
Lol, yes Joe, I do tend to get anal trying to verify things are how they should be when they are new, or close to it - but your post raises an interesting point. I would think a differential would be included as part of the Powertrain warranty, not just the basic warranty :thk:
Im going to dig a little on that !
 

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Can you tell me what im looking for on the barcode under the drivers side tube.
Mine is only partially readable. I can read the following:
TO3UG27230968 ......859AA 3.21
The 3.21 ratio is the only part i understand.
Anyone know if this is the lsd ?

There is no tag under a cover bolt head, but i hear that is not abnormal.
You can get the build sheet for your truck from the owners section of the Ram website. You just need to enter your vin.
 

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IIRC diffs are covered under powertrain warranty. I have never heard of the stock unit being weak (like the GM auto E-locker) though I have heard a few reports of the fairly new Auburn units failing on people.

Was your trans in neutral?
 
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