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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have tried searching but havent been able to find how to do it without losing the DRL's. Im in Canada so I need to retain them and I need to replace my switch and would prefer to do the upgrades now so hopefully im not having to buy switches in bulk. :i_rolleyes:

Im also planning to add a hitch and brake control so any links or info on how I can upgrade that end of it aswell would be helpful.
Thanks again.
I have found so many interesting threads on this site already, its hard to stay focused on one project at a time. Haha.
 

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what switch are you replacing and why?
 

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The headlight switch on the dash because it's melted like a lot of others.
It seems that you could go with an OEM switch and have all you need. Any idea what is behind the melting issue? The switch should be 'protected' from high voltage and current by a relay so the melting issue concerns me. If, for some reason, you don't' have a relay (a good manual should tell the story here) then I would be sure to add one (or two if necessary to keep the DRL's) to keep things safe. Other than the 110V plug on the 4th gens, I wouldn't bring anything more than 12V and 15A to the dash if I could help it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
No relays in these. Was something that it seems Chrysler didnt think of until after they had to start doing recalls. Seems to be a very common problem in these trucks. Thats why im trying to find info on the best way to do this now so I dont go through numerous switches like others have.
 

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All I have to go on is what my 4th gen has but here goes. The switch has 2-3 positions (park, low and dome). I'd bring 12v to the hot side of the switch and put a new relay on each of the other legs (maybe only the lows). The relays act as solid state switches but, more importantly, they are going to isolate your dash from the high current of the light circuits.

The 12v signal from your dash switch is the signal leg of the relay which takes a direct 12v from the battery (or what used to go to your switch). The relay is also grounded. (It should come with a connection diagram - sorry, I don't have one in front of me right now to attach for you).

I think the hardest parts of this for you are going to be determining the extent of the damage (melting, fried wiring, etc...) and finding places to mount these (3) new relays. I know it sounds silly using the same 12v signal to trigger the relay and to power the lights but the high current of the lights will now go through your relays and not through the dash (this is why the switch melted). If, for some reason you have a short in that circuit, the dash switch is no longer involved and you only have to replace the relay (hopefully).

This is all a bit wordy and probably pretty confusing. If you need more help, post a picture of the switch and I'll see if I can throw together a wiring diagram of the way I'd do it for you.

Good luck!
 
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