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Lately a few questions have popped up on the threads about the Xpresskit Remote start for the 2013 and 14 Rams, I had to talk with support in the last few days for some other products and took the time to have them addess some of the members questions and got some answers for those who may be wondering still, so here is a few answers about the new Xpress kit Remote start DB-ALL and DB-ALL2 and also the THCHD3 T-Harness.

One member asked what was the difference between the DB-ALL and DB-ALL2 remote start units.

The DB-ALL and DB-ALL2 are basically the same except the DB-ALL2 has a second CAN output, This is for future use on other Vehicles that would require other needs and they will be able to use this 2nd CAN Output to control things. The Ram does not need this.

Another Questions was: Is the new THCHD3 T-harness as plug and play as the one for the 2012 Ram

THCHD3 T-Harness, Well the answer is yes and no, The DB-ALL is connected to the trucks using this T-harness for everything except the following, you will need to hard wire the parking lights and the driver door pin. That's it.

Hope this helps answer some of the questions.

If others have more questions I may still be able to get the answers for them, other members can also answer them. Hope this helps
 

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Yup, Danfantana is correct, they will work with or without the T-Harness, but the T-harness is well worth it as it eliminates 99% of the hard wire install.
 

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Lately a few questions have popped up on the threads about the Xpresskit Remote start for the 2013 and 14 Rams, I had to talk with support in the last few days for some other products and took the time to have them addess some of the members questions and got some answers for those who may be wondering still, so here is a few answers about the new Xpress kit Remote start DB-ALL and DB-ALL2 and also the THCHD3 T-Harness.

One member asked what was the difference between the DB-ALL and DB-ALL2 remote start units.

The DB-ALL and DB-ALL2 are basically the same except the DB-ALL2 has a second CAN output, This is for future use on other Vehicles that would require other needs and they will be able to use this 2nd CAN Output to control things. The Ram does not need this.

Another Questions was: Is the new THCHD3 T-harness as plug and play as the one for the 2012 Ram

THCHD3 T-Harness, Well the answer is yes and no, The DB-ALL is connected to the trucks using this T-harness for everything except the following, you will need to hard wire the parking lights and the driver door pin. That's it.

Hope this helps answer some of the questions.

If others have more questions I may still be able to get the answers for them, other members can also answer them. Hope this helps
so i can install the xpresskit with the T harness for my 2014 and have functionality but would need to hard wire the parking lights and driver door pin?
 

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do I need to wire the park lamps and door pin.don't really care if the lights are on,just want the truck running with no cutting or splicing.any sources to buy from?I contacted the company and they say local dealer,local dealer would want to install I would think so probably won't sell to me over the counter.
 

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so i can install the xpresskit with the T harness for my 2014 and have functionality but would need to hard wire the parking lights and driver door pin?
After rechecking with the support the firmware for the 2014 is not out yet, supposed to be out by January, seems they changed some stuff from the 2013 to the 2014 :doh:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
do I need to wire the park lamps and door pin.don't really care if the lights are on,just want the truck running with no cutting or splicing.any sources to buy from?I contacted the company and they say local dealer,local dealer would want to install I would think so probably won't sell to me over the counter.

I do not think the park lamps are important, will ask them and see what they says, as for the door pin, that one might be needed., again will ask them and post what they say.

As for local dealer, I would bet pretty soon they will be selling these kits for the 2013 on ebay very soon.
 

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OK got the answer back from Xpress kit, they say no problems in installing the unit without the tap into the parking lights or the door pin, they say no problems.
 

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Unable to find T Harness

Does anyone know of anywhere that I can purchase the T harness? I keep searching google but can't find it for sale anywhere, but I do see it on DE's website. I contacted the local dealers in the area, but none of them know about the harness kits as they all hardwire their DBALLs.
 

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This is good info but how does a diy get it programed?
As when I bought mine for the 2012, I bought it from a reputable Ebay reseller that pre programmed it for my 2012, I am sure it will be the same for the 2013,

Strange that its seems hard to find a reseller that has them. I bet in a bit they will start popping up on ebay. I would even contact Doug here

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/290864627388?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

And see if he has them, if he can get them.

This is what I would do If I was looking for my 2013 :smileup:
 

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My question is the key2go thing? Once installed, how do you program it? Apparently the 12 came programmed but the 1s are different
 

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Double post by mistake
 

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Doug now has the complete kit install with harness for $170. I have mine ordered, hopefully it'll show up by Saturday so I can get it installed this weekend.
 

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Please let us know how it goes!!
 

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It has an expected delivery date of 12/23 so I guess I won't be doing this over the weekend. I might be able to get it installed on Monday, otherwise it'll have to most likely wait until Friday next week.

I'll be sure to take pictures of the harness and locations of the connections. I'm not too sure $50 is worth the 12 connections, however now I'm not tampering with factory wiring except for 2 connections.

I already ordered another Dball2 for my dad's 14 Escape, so I'll be getting a good taste of a hardwire install too.
 

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Dball2 w/ harness install

Hey everyone,

The package came a day early and I was able to get it installed. I'll briefly go over what's involved and some of the obstacles I had. I definitely don't think it takes a rocket scientist to install this. If you have a general knowledge of car wiring and using a simple browser interface to load firmware on to a device, you should be fine.

I would highly recommend the harness for simplicity reasons, however it is totally possible to install this module without it. Personally, I'm color blind so that's my hardest challenge when wiring. For the wiring that had to be done, I just had my brother assist me with picking out the right wires.

So whats you will receive from Doug if you purchase his kit:


In a small box, you'll receive the DBall2 in original packaging with universal wiring, the XLoader, the harness, and some simple instructions that take you step-by-step. At this point I had already found the RSR wiring guide so I had an idea of what was involved. Doug's instructions are pretty similar, however they are a little more clear in the order that you should do them.

My first obstacle after reading the instructions were the login credentials for Key2Go. He provides your user ID on the instructions, but states he will email your password. At the time of arrival, I had no password. A quick eBay message to him though solved this. I was worried I was going to have to wait until Monday, but he responded in the late afternoon on Saturday with my credentials.

The wiring diagram on the RSR Install guide displays the harness as it comes, minus a few miscellaneous wires. Before taking it to the truck, I just zip tied the extra loose wires and left the two that I would need for parking lights and RAP OFF loose.

Next came the install of the harness.

1. Remove the two screws at the bottom of the kick panel. The panel pulls out on the bottom, and lifts straight up and out.


2. Connect the OBDII to the harness. The harness replaces the current OBDII connection in the kick panel. Simply unclip it, put the harness OBDII in to the kick panel.


Connect and lock in the tab on the harness to the vehicle OBDII connection.


3. Make the connection to the ignition harness. This will be located on the back side of the key switch. There is a black connector that simply disconnects, connects to the harness, and the harness connects to the ignition. Be sure to follow the diagram and use the correct plugs (T-01 as labeled). Hint: look at the plug on the harness to see how it disconnects. There is a push tab on the side of the plug that faces the passenger side of the vehicle.


4. The trickiest part of the wiring is accessing the plugs connected to the BCM. The BCM is located above the parking brake, pretty much up behind the wheel. You can unplug the required two harnesses. They are on the side of the BCM facing the passenger side of the vehicle. These harness has large locking devices on them, so just be gentle to make sure you have the harness unlocked before tugging. If you have large arms, you might need help with this. In the photo below is the picture of the blue connector, and the white connector is floating behind it. The picture is taken from next to the parking brake. The harnesses only have a couple inches of slack, even after disconnecting the zip tie that the harnesses where held to the body with.


5. Locate the wires required to tap in to. Make sure you look at the harnesses from the wire side as these are how the pins are indicated according to the instructions. This was the next obstacle because usually I solder EVERYTHING due to the reliably and longevity of solder connections. I hate crimp connections, especially on small wires like 18ga, and I especially hate wire taps due to their likelihood of having a poor connection after a period of time. However, in this situation the only way I was getting the parking lights and RAP OFF wire connected, were through the use of wire taps. It would simply be impossible for me to solder in that location, much less strip the wire insulation off without cutting through the wire. Wire taps, in this situation, shouldn't pose an issue.

6. Now the fun part. Install the VIP 4.5 software from the Xpresskit home page. The software uses an IE plugin. You will need a Windows PC with IE. Install is pretty simple, and you will know you have successfully completed it when you receive a window that asks you to plug in your Xloader at this time, and allows you to launch Xpresskit.com.

7. Connect your Dball while on the Xpresskit homepage. You will see the plugin on the top right corner of the page, and your Dball information will load. Mine came with no firmware installed.

8. Login to the Xpresskit website using the credentials provided.

9. Pull up your vehicle using the drop down menus on the top left of the Xpresskit home page.

10. Under the correct Dball module, select the "Config for RSR" link and the plug-in will automatically bring up the firmware wizard. You will want to complete the Key2Go programming option.

11. Configure your Dball. This was probably the nicest part about having an Xloader. You're allowed to change the 3x lock timeout to up to 10 seconds. I have read several complaints about getting the vehicle to recognize 3 locks within 3 seconds. No worries here, as you can change the time to receive the lock commands. I set mine to 6. You can enable heated seats (if applicable) and/or the defroster/heated mirrors with the remote start, and set the temperature for at which point you would like them to come on. You are also allowed to change the run time to up to 60 minutes. There are a few other features in there, but none were applicable for an RSR install.

12. Click next and allow the module to be flashed. After flashing is complete, you will come to a page where Key2Go programming will be required. Go to the truck and plug in your module and follow the Key2Go programming sequence as described in the install guide. Once the programming is complete, unplug your module and take it back to your PC. Once the module is plugged in, refresh the page with the Key2Go request and you will find out if the programming was successful. If it allows you to "Submit Key2Go request" then everything worked. Allow it to finish the programming and this will be the end of the process. Note: It took me 3 attempts to get the Key2Go programming sequence at the vehicle to be recognized by the browser. I read while doing some research that others had the same issue and you are supposed to hit the "Lock" button during the Key2Go programming. I'm not exactly sure when you should hit the lock button, I ended up just pressing lock every time I removed the key from the ignition, including the last time. Between the failed attempts, I did not reflash or reset the module.

13. Go back to the vehicle and plug in your module for the last time. Be sure you plugged the harnesses that you removed from the BCM back in, or you'll get an engine light. If you forget, the truck will still start but your engine light will illuminate and your dash temp will read -40 (I know from experience). Simply recheck your connections, remove the positive battery connection for a couple minutes, and you should be good to go. Press your lock button 3 times, and your truck should start right up.

Some observations:

1. You may ask why pit stop mode is not a feature on this install. Simple answer is with the key in the ignition, the lock button command from the remote is ignored from the truck making this function impossible.

2. Take-over does not occur until your foot hits the brake. With the vehicle started, and your headlights on auto, only your parking lights will be illuminated until you hit the brake. When approaching the vehicle, the headlights will no longer illuminate if your remote start is active, and they will not turn on until you push the brake.

3. There are no safety devices on the remote start, unless you install the hood switch or use the safety switch on the harness. If you're used to Chrysler factory systems, this means doors can be ajar and your low fuel light can be on and the engine will still start. Also note, the engine starts and everything powers on including your radio and your wipers. Pay attention when getting out of the vehicle to your wipers, as this could be an easy way to destroy components if your windshield ices. Factory systems generally don't enable to wipers until the vehicle takeover has been completed.

5. This has been mentioned before. If you disable to horn honk with lock on your settings menu on the EVIC, you won't wake your neighbors up at night when you start your truck. Unfortunately, your aftermarket exhaust still will.

4. Overall, this is an awesome add-on for a fraction of the factory system, and you get to keep the factory remote without any additional modules, unless you want to add a range extender. Installation is extremely straight forward and simple with the harness. Without the harness, installation is still simple as the majority of the wires go to the OBDII and ignition harness, with the exception of the two hard-to-reach harnesses mentioned above.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Very nice write up, very well done, congrats on your install, reps to you for your write up, very cool.
 
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